Louis Vuitton S/S 2023 Paris | Page 3 | the Fashion Spot

Louis Vuitton S/S 2023 Paris

The pragmatic breakdown of such a show probably means a lot of basic garments that will feature the super-sized hardware that a lot of these outfits adorned - I mean, yes, that makes the pieces instantly recognizable as Vuitton from SS'23 but really doesn't deliver much, designwise. So in a way, I see more laziness there than for him to have pushed himself much with such a collection...
I mean for the coats, I can imagine them being produced the way they were presented. They usually produce the coats the way they are. They also usually changes fabrics for some pieces and reserves the very precious fabrics for pre-order or very limited production like with the FW currently in stores.
I don’t want a giant zipper around my breast area but beyond the zippers, it’s the kind of plissés that I find interesting. And the fabrics for the pants too.

I don’t do pre-orders for Vuitton but i would be very curious to know if and who pre-ordered some of this. I bet all the exclusives will be for the Asian market or the two flagships Parisian stores.
 
A Ghesquiere show is like exploring frieze and frieze masters at the same time.. if you are wealthy and want to invest in clothing you can get everything you need at Vuitton.. from the museum piece to the daily wardrobe….There is no other designer who does this so consistently and that’s why he’s still at the top and so bankable.. the RTW is selling like crazy which Marc Jacobs never achieved.. the brand is in great hands…
 
“Louis Vuitton is not anymore a leather goods company; it’s a fashion company also, and we’re very proud, after all these years, of this result,” said Ghesquière
Source: vogue.com

Nicolas did that, in 9 years he turned LV from a handbags focus company into a fashion powerhouse. That's a quite evolution.

He and Delphine are unstoppable at this point. She doesn't play around like her brothers. On top of that, she always looks so chic wearing Nicolas's clothes.

The company LVMH already has a trustworthy heiress.
 
A fantastic combination of ugliness with an exaggeration of simple elements, which exist in every clothing such as zippers, buttons, etc. I hate his prints, but a few silhouettes are very intriguing. I am not surprised that it designs such things, most of contemporary customers do not appreciate beautiful and in the theories of simple clothes in which tailoring is the most important.

Did he have some kind of falling out with Pierre Hardy?
He was his boyfriend. They are probably still friends, they invite themselves to mutual events related to their own works. Each of them now has their own private life and achieves their own successes at work.
 
The reason why the clothing sells so well under Ghesquiere is not because of the runway pieces, let's be clear, it's because of the very basic styles that get commercialised at the boutique level that sells to the masses.

When Marc Jacobs was designing, the whole concept of Louis Vuitton RTW was much more limited and exclusive. It was only available in a tiny amount of boutiques worldwide. A large amount of their stores at that time were also not even configured to sell clothing. It was only when Ghesquiere came on board that Vuitton went aggressive on the RTW category. Add to that the fact that Vuitton has expanded their boutique and distribution network probably by double, and pushed commercial/logo pieces heavily - and it makes sense why RTW is succeeding.

Look at what they are selling in the stores now; another capsule collection. These are the kinds of pieces that LV has to rely on to generate profit in order to keep the whole Ghesquiere project going.

Screenshot 2022-10-06 at 10.23.48 am.png
LOUIS VUITTON
 
Fashion week was so bad that am just getting to watch this and others like Chanel and I don't regret the delay.
 
The "make things that are usually quite small much, much bigger" schtick always feels like an emergency decision to me. Like you've ran out of ideas, but the deadline's coming up.
 
why do his collections seem so often to chafe against women's bodies? it's very rarely flattering imo :huh: *shrug*
 
To me personally, his Cruise 2023 collection is so much better than this and fleshes out the amalgamation of his retro-futurist aesthetic and Vuitton's codes better despite some looks coming off costume-y.
 
A Ghesquiere show is like exploring frieze and frieze masters at the same time.. if you are wealthy and want to invest in clothing you can get everything you need at Vuitton.. from the museum piece to the daily wardrobe….There is no other designer who does this so consistently and that’s why he’s still at the top and so bankable.. the RTW is selling like crazy which Marc Jacobs never achieved.. the brand is in great hands…
Nicolas is way superior designer to Marc. The only thing that made Marc relevant is that he shows in NYC which has the most dismal fashion shows. But if he were in Paris, he’d be poached by Akris lol
 
Nicolas is way superior designer to Marc. The only thing that made Marc relevant is that he shows in NYC which has the most dismal fashion shows. But if he were in Paris, he’d be poached by Akris lol
Marc is a great designer but Nicolas is just different. When I think about Nicolas, I think about clothes: a great pair of pants, blazers, coats. A-line dresses and mini silhouettes. Throughout his career, it has always been about a silhouette or key pieces. That’s what I like from him and why I buy Vuitton RTW today. The runway show maybe exceptional, I know I can count on him for a pair of pants or a great coat.

Marc is different. When I think about Marc, I think about moments, specific shows. I never really bought his Mainline but there were Vuitton shows I felt like I needed to have pieces from but he is not the « go to designer » for anything. You know CDG does fabulous skirts, that Junya does great coats, Karl was great with dresses and tailleurs, Tom is great for suits, Galliano is great at dresses…etc. Marc is good at a lot of things but it’s never « Oh! He is the one for that ».

I think what has kept Marc relevant was the fact that he has always managed the capture the moment in fashion. What he is doing now is almost done and passé but somehow it works. Generally designers are ahead or they are doing their own thing. Marc understand culture but has never dictated trends.
 
^^^ Yes, absolutely different leagues. At his best, Ghesquiere approaches fashion with such an architectural sensibility, constructing new suggestions of shape and form, while Marc— even at his very best, has always been simply fashion.

why do his collections seem so often to chafe against women's bodies? it's very rarely flattering imo :huh: *shrug*

Interesting observation Jane.

This is the era that’s a reaction to the era before it: It’s Bizzaro World come-to-life. Everything that was rejected and shown as a parody, a caricature of fashion is now celebrated, revered and insisted as an ideal. The fashion times now are a reflection of Kurt Vonnegut’s dystopian society where the physically superior individuals are made to wear contraptions to burden and handicap them with what it’s like to be physically inferior.

That past era— the period between the mid-90s to the end of the 2000s, really was the Golden Age of highest fashion: Talents, design, showcase, presentation, all of it. The entire argument of representation/divesrity/inclusivity aside, this was a period in fashion that produced the highest of creative standards and technical achievement, along with the talents that pushed and challenged the limits to the max. And unrivalled by any period in fashion.

Unfortunately, what reaches and soars so beautifully high up, like Icarus, must come tumbling down, like a sloppy mess. Hence… this era of fashion. Someone like Ghesquiere, who’s proven how high he can soar with his Balenciaga— and who’s also shrewdly so aware of the times he’s working in, has remained relevant not just adapting to these lesser times with lowering his aesthetic standards to placate the masses, but has managed to evolve his sensibilities without compromising the way that someone like Miuccia has spiralled down in this desperate attempt to keep up with the children. He’s till leading, while she’s reduced to following. That’s something worthy of admiration even if I’ve found his Vuitton exhausting, even irritating. His talent remains untarnished.
 
Marc is a great designer but Nicolas is just different. When I think about Nicolas, I think about clothes: a great pair of pants, blazers, coats. A-line dresses and mini silhouettes. Throughout his career, it has always been about a silhouette or key pieces. That’s what I like from him and why I buy Vuitton RTW today. The runway show maybe exceptional, I know I can count on him for a pair of pants or a great coat.

Marc is different. When I think about Marc, I think about moments, specific shows. I never really bought his Mainline but there were Vuitton shows I felt like I needed to have pieces from but he is not the « go to designer » for anything. You know CDG does fabulous skirts, that Junya does great coats, Karl was great with dresses and tailleurs, Tom is great for suits, Galliano is great at dresses…etc. Marc is good at a lot of things but it’s never « Oh! He is the one for that ».

I think what had kept Marc relevant was the fact that he has always managed the capture the moment in fashion. What he is doing now is almost done and passé but somehow it works. Generally designers are ahead or they are doing their own thing. Marc understand culture but has never dictated trends.

I feel like he had a moment around 2007-2011 but he sort of lost it and never really bounced back.
 
The "make things that are usually quite small much, much bigger" schtick always feels like an emergency decision to me. Like you've ran out of ideas, but the deadline's coming up.

That's what immediately went through my head.

I think the collection is fantastic---as costumes.

As clothes? Clunky, clunky, clunky! (to be read fast and in the voice of Michael Kors).
 
While this is definitely far from optimal Ghesquiére, it's better than what most of his peers have to offer. While the supermaximalist MAS does wonders for Dossena's Paco Rabanne, she really f*cks over Ghesquiére's collections. A stylist with a more streamlined, sexy point of view would give his brutalist collections a bit more nuance and depth. Even @GivenchyHomme's simple edit of switching the heavy boots for sleek heels on look 1 did wonders.
 

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