LONDON, February 23, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Louise Goldin is the girl who has stretched knitwear to embrace the future, breaking out of all the cozy limitations suggested by the term "sweater dressing." The collection she showed was entirely in black, which was a pity—though only in that it wasn't possible to make out exactly what she was up to, even in close-up. Essentially, it was long-lined silhouettes of knit sliced with black leather, as well as an evolution into fur in a few fierce jackets that took her pieces to luxury level. "It was a long experimentation process," she said. "All these challenging things I love, but I never knew whether it was going to work or not." It certainly turned out successfully in the fox-sleeved jacket whose salt-and-pepper tweed front was knitted by Goldin herself on a machine and—at the other, more basic extreme—the knit leggings with leather stripes embedded on the side. In between, there were many complex multi-yarn sweater dresses the designer-boffin had achieved by patiently setting computers to pull wondrous innovation out of standard machines. The result looked like dark, intergalactic warrior-woman armor, but thought through in a way that might assure Goldin a future as someone who can sell items, rather than just be praised as a visionary.
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