Ludovic de Saint Sernin F/W 2024.25 New York

Sick of the Mapplethorpe and Tom of Finland twinks. He's so surface level and conceited it's almost too funny.

He needs to up the ante when it comes to their pattern cutting and designs. It's been the exact same for a long time now. The same thing rehashed over and over again, and has gotten worse and more simplified over the years too.
 
I don't know why I watched this but his serious walk at the end like 'see? I'm just like a model'..🤣... he's right at home at NYFW, next to all the goofy acts absolutely no one will remember the moment Milan Fashion Week starts.
 
Look number 34 is the only acceptable one. Great cut, stylish shoes and horn shaped accessories. And the hat - amazing.

Well done Loudovic, you better (don’t) walk girl…🤫
 
Look number 34 is the only acceptable one. Great cut, stylish shoes and horn shaped accessories. And the hat - amazing.

Well done Loudovic, you better (don’t) walk girl…🤫
I just watched the video. I could not stop laughing. His walk, I cannot.
He's probably thinking: 'This is how it's done'
Gurl, there's still crumbs on the floor.
Also, is there a reason why he's showing in NY and not Paris?
 
Don't mind this at all. There's a directness here and sharpness of point of view that I like. Clothes seem better made and showing in New York makes him stand out.
 
mother came to stay... yeap just stay in new york atleast he has a chance to be a highlight in this city.

Some looks were giving vaccarello and vauthier. Can't say it's bad, it atleast has a strong direction and was selling something.
 
the great american thinker rupaul once said "your fear of looking stupid is holding you back", LdSS is living by those words because he's obsviously not afraid of looking stupid ! pop off king !

cadwallader and LdSS are the CD equivalent of 19yo who put "nb | they/them assexual sIut" on their twitter bios. lots of skimpy little outfits and skin showing but ZERO sex appeal and sexuality/sensuality, Ludovic's "clothes" are as sexy as a cigarette pack warning label showing a guy with an erectile dysfunction
 
You guys really hate this guy. Idk im not super plugged into whatever instabusiness he has. These clothes are definitely moody, very simplistic and shallow. I would definitely say there is no technique being applied here. Its like a refined heatherette.
 
the great american thinker rupaul once said "your fear of looking stupid is holding you back", LdSS is living by those words because he's obsviously not afraid of looking stupid ! pop off king !

cadwallader and LdSS are the CD equivalent of 19yo who put "nb | they/them assexual sIut" on their twitter bios. lots of skimpy little outfits and skin showing but ZERO sex appeal and sexuality/sensuality, Ludovic's "clothes" are as sexy as a cigarette pack warning label showing a guy with an erectile dysfunction
LDSS is one of those brands that makes me wonder if I'm going crazy, or if I'm just old, b/c he has such a rabid following, and I simply don't get any of it. It's so cringe. All of them looked like they were in some Gen-Z neo-Manson cult (but like a second-rate version of that).
 
I am always surprised to see the outcome of collections inspired by the great Robert Mapplethorpe.
Because I don't find any of the sexual tension, the energy or the crude beauty in this collection made by LDSS.
Mapplethorpe is one of the greatest photographers of his generation and he managed to turn something very rough, dark, dirty into eternal poetry.

I feel bad for Mapplethorpe...seeing his named soiled with this pathetic collection.

Do you really like Mapplethorpe, dear Ludovic ? Then maybe use models that ooze some real Mapplethrope energy. Putting poorly executed chaps on fragile twinks isn't a doing a Mapplethorpe collection.
The casting is wrong, the styling is wrong, the accessories are cheap and all the BDSM details are an insult to what real and fine BDSM gear.

This is a Pinterest collection of a fashion student who has fantasies about gay saunas. It's clearly not executed by someone who experienced the scene, that kind of gear and the emotions of being sub/dom.

The collection smells like soap when Robert's work was about sweat, tears and other body fluids I won't mention here.

And to finish my critic, a beautiful picture to remember the power of photography in a world where cheap imagery is celebrated :smile:

SID60314M.jpg.1400x1400_q85.jpg

artgallery.nsw.gov.au
 
It’s funny but recently I made that reflection to myself that designers from this newer generation have a weird kind of idea of sexy dressing. It’s very revealing but never sensual. It’s never warm and inviting…
Their clothes always looks like they are made for people who don’t actually have sex but love that look.
Jacquemus, weirdly, is one of the few, if the not the only one who does real sexy. There’s a sensuality in his way of presenting women. His woman is not a bad b***h from IG.

And here we have Mr De Saint Sernin in full cliché mode. I don’t find it sexy. It’s a bit embarrassing. I don’t know if I’m perplexed over the cast or if it’s just those obvious bondage accessories…

Nevertheless, this is probably his most achieved collection ever. Maybe presenting in NYC liberated him from all the French conservatism. In NYC, people would be dressed like that. It can never happen in Paris.

I wonder if Tyrone Dylan is his ultimate muse. I couldn’t stop thinking about him!

And that walk at the end was so hilarious that I love it! When Dean and Dan does it, you know it’s fun…With him, it’s clearly very serious so it becomes even more hilarious! But I enjoyed his bow lol
 
Their clothes always looks like they are made for people who don’t actually have sex but love that look.

This. They love to reference bdsm, harnessess, etc. etc. without probably experiencing it themselves (not that they have to). So the outcome is what we get with any "BDSM" inspired collections. The sex somehow gets lost in the process of turning it into wearable clothes. I guess this is this generations way of normalizing bdsm culture and it seems here to stay as daily clothes. Maybe it is good that they can wear these stuff without looking like theyre begging for it.

I live for that walk at the end. He knows no matter how bad he does in NYC, he will stand above most collections this week.
 
One advantage he has over other young designers is that his clothes are not conceptual, they don't have that heaviness of pseudo avant garde.

What he needs is better execution, and a prospect of designing clothes to a larger audience - people that don't have a social media adiction, for example.
 

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