Lutz Huelle S/S 2020 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Lutz Huelle S/S 2020 Paris

donyan

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I think this collection is not as strong as his previous ones. The splicing of garments which usually looks fun and effortless, is very forced here. I also find his sense of color to be very limited and almost in bad taste. The same goes for accessories, they have this glue gun aesthetic which I really don't like. Hes very inventive when it comes to clothes, but this inventiveness rarely gets extended to shoes etc.

I do like the polka dot and sheer pieces, they're fun.

hes either super stuck, or too busy with delpozo, lets hope for the latter.
 
Not his best...It’s quite honestly a bad collection. That being said, what’s going on with Deplozo?
 
I like the sheer polka dot pieces, they're cute and fun. The bulk of this one is forgettable though, but it has the vibe that I think GBV keeps trying to achieve.

I wish we could see some Delpozo from him I miss seeing them during fashion month.
 
it was inspired by Paris apparently, he posted this IG
“Although I have lived in Paris for more than 20 years I have always been inspired by the idea of a global community, dressing without rules or preconceptions, a mix-and-match of styles and genres.

Coming back from the summer break I suddenly felt a profound joy of returning to this city, thinking how much I have taken Paris for granted all these years, forgetting how beautiful the place is, and feeling how much in recent times it has become a real sanctuary.
So this collection is about Paris- a kind of easy, flirty elegance, an idea of dressing with care as well as joy, of looking great at whatever time of day or night:

Dresses and skirts fall from the waist in a fluid A-line shape.
The same shape is cut as a cape in both technical cotton and silk taffetas, worn with a cigarette pant at night or a cotton shirt for day.
A baseball jacket is cut in pink taffetas and worn with a pouf skirt as a 2-piece suit.
Coats in checks or cotton gabardine have an exaggerated shoulder line and short sleeves, making the waist look tiny.
Denim jackets are cut into trench-coats using beige or navy Cotton Gabardine, or have added collars in gathered tulle.
The same tulle is used to cut the sleeves of last winter’s lantern shirts, making them both lighter and more dramatic.
Finally, pants and skirts in dotted tulle are worn underneath coats and dresses or on top of shirts, adding lightness and a glimpse of leg to everyday looks.”

To me it’s more or less his FW 19 Collection, with some added polka dots . I don’t hate it but it’s not up to his usual standard. For me personally it’s also a little to ‘nice’ , I miss the alternative vibe , it’s very dressy - explained by the inspiration I suppose.
Re Delpozo, there was an article in WWD a few weeks ago saying they were looking for a buyer for the company, that might be the reason for the recent silence around the brand. I had high hopes for him there , let’s hope it’s not all over before it started
 

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