Maison Margiela Artisanal F/W 2018.19 Paris

[MagFan]

vogue.com

 

[MagFan]

vogue.com

 

[MagFan]

vogue.com

 

[tatouejeremie]

nice colours, materials and i like the chaos

but it's fashion which sole purpose is to entertain, which i think is uninteresting

 

[Benn98]

Oh my! The selfie anklets! Another winner for Margiela. Love the colours, sheer elements, and the cropped jackets look so cool!! What separate John from many other avant-garde designers is his uncanny ability to fold wearable fragments into these artisanal collections.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I’m dead.

 

[mistress_f]

Almost every look here has a similar silhouette to ones he's already presented in past margiela collections, some are exactly the same actually, but...

it's all re-imagined, like in a futuristic digital nightmare, everything is actually very nightmarish but in vivid colors, it's so weird and messy and (looking at the details) unsettling, i LOVE all of it.

 

[Lola701]

I guess it’s great. Nice colors, nice technique, pure Galliano and nothing Margiela as usual...I’m used to it.
But like Tatouejeremie I find it uninteresting. It’s just for entertainment, for magazine and all...

It’s a pity that with Galliano, Margiela Couture (it’s not Artisanal anymore tbh) doesn’t have a reality.
It’s almost too easy, even for John, to design crazy things just for the sake of it...

Because the reality is that when we actually see people in Margiela Couture, they are in fact wearing an old Galliano or Galliano for Dior creation made by the Margiela atelier.

But John still got it but nobody ever doubt of his talent...

 

[Benn98]

I guess it’s great. Nice colors, nice technique, pure Galliano and nothing Margiela as usual...I’m used to it.
But like Tatouejeremie I find it uninteresting. It’s just for entertainment, for magazine and all...

It’s a pity that with Galliano, Margiela Couture (it’s not Artisanal anymore tbh) doesn’t have a reality.
It’s almost too easy, even for John, to design crazy things just for the sake of it...

Because the reality is that when we actually see people in Margiela Couture, they are in fact wearing an old Galliano or Galliano for Dior creation made by the Margiela atelier.

But John still got it but nobody ever doubt of his talent...

I saw her comment, but don't understand. For me this is actually quite wearable, not even somewhat. Any stylist worth their salt should be able to build a solid and accessible look with the outer pieces, for starters.

And while I certainly agree that Galliano has veered from MM, the core of Artisanal never really relied on a rigid house/design aesthetic than it did on the repurposed textures. John is still doing everything by the book for this specific line as far as I can see. In fact, he's actually doing pretty well for a man of his stature. He's far too evolved to 'toe the line'.....

 

[Perickles]

Very avant-garde like fashion should be.

 

[helmutnotdead]

But the brand doesn't sell the Artisanal/Couture collections. And not because it doesn't sell, it's their own decision. So what's the point of asking for something wearable or commercial? They give the clothes to museums, etc...

I actually love the idea that it's couture for "everyone". No matter how rich you are because you can't buy the clothes.

It's for the sake of enjoying fashion. And that's something that we all miss.

 

[Lola701]

His best Dior collections weren’t wearable but that never stopped me from loving it. My favorite Dior RTW collection which was FW2004 was actually almost never produced but it fabulous in terms of ideas or great clothes.
Everything is wearable, even the most «*unwearable*» CDG creation but i’m not receptive to this comical Galliano aesthetic. I can appreciate the technicality, the imagination and all but I feel like a lot of people when they see Chanel. This is just there and the fact that it’s completely removed from any reality makes it worse for me. Now, everything is Artisanal at Margiela. He is doing the eau de parfum to inspire the eau de toilette and flankers as he says but it doesn’t work for me...At Margiela at least.

I saw her comment, but don't understand. For me this is actually quite wearable, not even somewhat. Any stylist worth their salt should be able to build a solid and accessible look with the outer pieces, for starters.

And while I certainly agree that Galliano has veered from MM, the core of Artisanal never really relied on a rigid house/design aesthetic than it did on the repurposed textures. John is still doing everything by the book for this specific line as far as I can see. In fact, he's actually doing pretty well for a man of his stature. He's far too evolved to 'toe the line'.....

I think I will never get on board with John at Margiela because no matter how grand it is, I fail to see a vision of a woman. I see clothes, a pile of them on somebody but I don’t see a woman or a man. It’s very «*déshumanisé*» for me.

I fell in love with Galliano because suddenly he made me want to be the woman on the runway. She was fierce, strong and she owned the room and her sexuality. She was the same in a refined biais cut dress or a trashy denim jacket with shorts and fishnets.

This is also what attracted me to Margiela and all the designers that I love.

And I think that the fact that he is not designing for somebody to wear on mind shows. Those are clothes for museums, to pose in and not necessarly to live in.

Katy Perry wore Margiela from the Runway and she acted like a statue and I’m sad about that.

As much as I’m admirative of Galliano his work at Margiela doesn’t move me. And it’s been a lot of seasons now...

Fashion is about emotion and I don’t feel anything when looking at it.

 

[CholoChic]

There is a lot of people who buys Artisanal MArgiela and looks amazing
of course it is not made for common humans.

But the brand doesn't sell the Artisanal/Couture collections.

 

[AnaD]

I no kind of love this, the hyper colours and silhouettes, the obnoxious accessories, the garishness of it all. It's great, witty and thought provoking, exactly what fashion was meant to be. He isn't designing these to be worn by others, so he is able to let his designs run wild, and I love that.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Fascinating, as always. But my complaint still holds - I really would like to see at least 5 or so strong, but totally believable and wearable looks thrown into the mix. I understand that John uses Couture here as the laboratory, to be filtered down into the RTW...and that that’s where the product to wear lies, but I can’t help but that feel that aesthetically and conceptually the eye needs a relief and an anchor in these collections. There’s so much here that is interesting, complicated, strange, beautiful, compelling...but when every look has the same impact, ultimately, the sum total ends up one-note. I’m missing an arch and an element of reality here. By just by adding 5 or so believable looks for relief and contrast, I think the conceptual work would really sing.

 

[dodencebt]

There is a lot of people who buys Artisanal MArgiela and looks amazing
of course it is not made for common humans.

According to Renzo Rosso, Margiela Artisanal is "just a prototype; we give it to museums or art galleries or put it in our archive. We never sell it. But the details go into the commercial collection."

 

[Phuel]

Who cares if none of this is meant for sale. Every collection is bursting with such fresh ideas, brimming with references, and loaded to the max with pure visual delight, I am in awe of this man's talent 30+ years stronger into his career. He is a titan amongst even the greatest.

 

[Phuel]

Who cares if none of this is meant for sale. Every collection is bursting with such fresh ideas, brimming with references, and loaded to the max with pure visual delight, I am in awe of this man's talent 30+ years stronger into his career. He is a titan amongst even the greatest.

 

[Norden]

Im So happy for margiela. Imagine the disaster if it would continue in the same vain as Martin left it. It would never be as good. John is making the house into something new and different while working in the same conceptual methods as Martin. It’s just that the culture and aesthetic is really different. Love seeing these collections. I missed this in fashion!

 

[Norden]

Im So happy for margiela. Imagine the disaster if it would continue in the same vain as Martin left it. It would never be as good. John is making the house into something new and different while working in the same conceptual methods as Martin. It’s just that the culture and aesthetic is really different. Love seeing these collections. I missed this in fashion!