Why are we expecting John to do minimalism, though? That is not how he interprets house codes and we’ve had over ten years of his tenure at Dior to prove that. There are codes from the original designer incorporated into every collection, if you know where to look for them, but he presents them in his own unique way. Nothing about his Dior was very obviously Christian Dior, just like nothing here screams Margiela. And I, for one, think that’s a good thing. Nobody can be another Margiela and the only way for another designer to thrive at the house is to put his own spin on it. Not every designer’s spin is a good spin (e.g. current Balenciaga, Givnechy or Fendi), so to have John Galliano at his full potential here is nothing but a blessing to fashion!
But was Margiela a minimalist tho?
His work for Hermes yes, but the sensibility of his own house is probably closer to Galliano than Raf Simons or his autoproclamed heirs. After all, he comes from Gaultier and was infused of all the things that characterizes great designers: a sense of humor, a sense of history and a sense of construction.
I think everybody is happy to see a voice like John still being able to have a stage loud and clear.
The difference between his Dior and his Margiela is that he was so infused with the spirit of Dior that his off-road moments felt totally right! Dior is the name in French fashion associated with an idea of extreme feminity and excess.
And that’s the weird thing that grands couturiers got that others don’t. MGC may do the new look every season, she does not have the spirit of Dior. Nicolas may not have done quote on quote Balenciaga everytime but he understood the spirit. The same for Karl at Chanel who took pleasure in shaking the table and so so…
There’s something quite interesting about Margiela though.
I have started to buy Margiela by John after going to the boutiques and there I have found what I’m missing in the shows. I think that working for Margiela in a way forces him to be modern, to speak to the street…Something I’m sure he wouldn’t have done under his own name.
And then there’s this weird non-working duality. If John was at his own brand, this offering would have touched us but it would also maintain his brand in a certain past…
I don’t know how women would relate to this today beyond the beauty of the show.
That being said, we can appreciate this fashion moment for what it was, a great fashion moment!
