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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by gazebo, Feb 14, 2018.
The worst of 80´s fashion condensed in one collection. Heavy, suffocating, ugly and dated.
An undeniable fashion moment. Exquisite!
I'm all for it, love it, the mood, the impactful styling, the dramatic presentation and, of course, the clothes and for me this is great thing about this collection, is all about the clothes and the bold and mysterious woman that MJ wanna wear.
And the category is: New Romantic Rive Gauche Replicant returns a purchase to 5 avenue Marceau ...
Absolutely gorgeous collection that is unequivocally, unabashedly about FASHION in the biggest, most forceful sense of the word. It's such a beautiful melange of haute 80s references, from Montana, to Mugler, to Ungaro, to YSL, to Lacroix, and the most timely of all, Alaia. Hell, I even see echoes of that iconic photograph that Nick Knight took of Susie Bick in Yohji Yamamoto where she's smoking in an aubergine coat and hiding behind her severe little bob.
At this point I've really come to depend on Marc for a true fashion fix. He's really one of the few designers working today who still seems to set out with the aim of designing a collection that at once tells you a story and shows you how you could dress, rather than one which merely borrows from what everyone is already wearing and offers a slightly tweaked version of it. It does what fashion should do; it dares you to try something different. I have no problems with the fact that this is very heavily '80s inspired, mostly because I think the '80s were arguably the last decade where you didn't have to look to couture or editorial/runway pieces in order to see designers really pushing fashion design to its limit. And truthfully, this is certainly no more literal than much of Gucci's runway output has been, and in fact, seems slightly more reasonable for people who don't live a life where one can always wear gobs of crystal embroidery.
Call it excessive, call it retro, call it out of touch with the cynical, uninspired moment we currently find ourselves stuck in, but it's a goddamn pleasure to look at and, I suspect, a pleasure to wear if one is lucky enough to do so.
Feel like I'm looking at a Galliano for Dior F/W 2004 when I see those big exaggerated coats. A lot of deconstruction to be performed for sure. I think I like it...
Now thats an answer! Work mother!
Absolutely stunning collection! I love the silhouette. 1981 drama... I live!
He's one of the only designers who still has fun with fashion and I love this for that. I suppose in theory there are some quite fugly things here but the oversize silhouettes, headwear and colours are all put together so fearlessly that it works. This really recalls some of his more leftfield outings of the past decade and the cool thing is that you know that these pieces will look really down to earth once taken off the editorial/runway pedestal.
I swear MJ would be the perfect replacement at YSL, this soooo YSL in the early 80s. Though early 80s inspired clothing is overkill now, Marc does it better than no other, that along with the 70s and gives it a different perspective. As well the colors and sharp tailoring, its beyond me why he is not at YSL. Also this collection also fits the MeToo movement, massive portions and sort of 40s gangster references ie powerful. Raf Simons should take some notes.
Thank you! Did we need another 80s collection? And done by MJ? I think he started most of the pieces off nicely, but mucked it up towards finish. It's so overblown and excessive, in an 80s American way. Let's add more, let's make it bigger and bolder....it will mean better. The beauty of Galliano excess is that there's a point to his detail. There's wit. Marc's look like he did it just for the sake of it. The styling makes it look halfway decent imo.
Oh well, at least his clothes will be editorialised in VP without a doubt.....
Ridiculous for the sake of being ridiculous, a perfect example of why this brand is irrelevant.
Anyone likes the art and craziness of fashion would absolutely love this collection and find it as a piece of art,and those who like fashion for fashion,clothes and styles,I don't think they will like this collection.
His wannabe Galliano attempts of "FASHUN DAHLING" grandiosity may seem endearing at first, but you can't get past the sense of "what's the point?". Costume fashion does nothing for me, no matter how fun and fabulous it's supposed to be. Fashion shouldn't just existing in a vacuum, in a pedestal, with nothing to say. And it's not really about being trendy and commercial either, it's about being feeling personable, or even real. The world doesn't live in fashion shows and magazine editorials, so you how can you expect people to connect with these clothes?
Marc Jacobs...he's never predictable but somehow always annoying. Honestly I just find it so awful how he's always resurrcting these "aesthetics" he's borrowed from well known fashion imagery, what's the point of even scrolling through this mess when I'm a couple clicks away from the Vintage Magazines' threads? It's just so contrived and gimmicky, this could only appeal to the Insta crowd since none of the pieces show any love for his craft, they are a pretty bunch of nothing. The stormtooper coats at the very beggining were nice in their monolithic austerity but the rest just seems to smother the poor models.
I agree that this is costume since it doesn't seem to involve any personal point of view, no added wit, charm or grace, these awful garments have not become anymore desirable than they were in your aunt's closet last week by virtue of parading down the runway. The few details that elevate this were much more entretaining in Jacquemus 80's show, where I actually felt there was a spark of passion behind it all.
i think it's one of his most (i hate to use this word but it applies here) derivative collections to date, but as whole, it really works for me. Love the colors and the volumes.
I can't make up my mind whether to defend this or detest it.
For what it's worth, I don't agree that these clothes can't exist off a runway. We've seen countless times before that when theatrical shows like these get dissected, they work very well in wardrobes. All the culottes are pretty safe if you ask me, the leather pants can work almost as elevated athleisure wear when worn with a cool sneaker, the coats and the oversized tailoring are also wearable without the shoulder pads, shirts are quirky but quite regular with only elongated sleeves added for effect.
Which leads me to the opposite pulling force, and that's: no signature, no substance, no personal point of view as YohjiAddict posted above. It's hard for anyone to connect to these clothes when better ones can be found around every corner these days. For example, as as much as I don't enjoy half of the monstrosities Alessandro sends down the runway, I see charm in his pieces. His own personality is reflected in everything he does and I can see why it resonates with people.
By the way, the fact that Marc is so inconsistent further destroys his brand. I don't know anyone who wears him anymore unfortunately and these themed shows that swing from one extreme to another just don't seem to have a place in today's fashion. They are entertaining, sure, but they cannot keep a brand afloat.