Marc Jacobs S/S 2019 New York
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Ken Doll Jenner
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I'm in awe of everything in this collection. Is it derivative? Yes. But I don't care. I miss this kind of theatrics in fashion, and when someone like Marc--or Pierpaolo with his recent couture offerings for Valentino--did so in the most unapologetic way, I couldn't help but be won over. The whole thing is clearly rooted in 80s YSL. Some of the jackets also remind me of Lagerfeld's early stint at Chanel. Yes the ruffles, feathers, and overall proportions are ridiculously overblown, but they are also the kind of extravagance that make me dream. I do think the fit is not as extreme as last season's though. Some are still wearable imo. Overall, this is fashion escapism at its finest. I'm just glad that despite the turmoil he undergoes, he's still able to bring out the big guns in his arsenal when it comes to delivering fantasy.
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A nice departure from last season yet with some of the volumes and 80s inspiration staying intact. I thought this was a nice collection from Marc Jacobs, liked how coherent it was, how different it felt from everyone else in New York and as per usual it's the headgear which finish off most looks beautifully.
dodencebt
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For a show that was an hour and a half late - returning to his usual antics, I see - it was a completely underwhelming collection. I thought it was very similar to last season but in pastels and a lot of the looks seemed like an afterthought.
jeanclaude
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Another 80s couture charade...
Pricciao
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Not really, he's done it all between 2004-2011, if you browse through vogue runway. Particularly spring 2011 collection is what most of the ruffled things referencing.
Benn98
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First look gave me Vuitton vibes and that had me excited. Only to find that it was fool's gold - the only one in a sea of overwrought fabric mass. These type of looks which should be right up Emmanuelle Alt's alley because they perfectly encapsulate the excess of the 80s, yet we hardly ever see Marc Jacobs in Vogue Paris. Maybe it's too theatrical and campy for Alt?
I feel like with each collection Marc seems to be moving further and further away from a 'wearable/accessible' sensibility. Yet these clothes don't quite make the cut for it to be exhibited in a museum either. It's time to assess his way forward, and how he'll get out of the looming red numbers on his balance sheet. This collection, and the last one, isn't it.
I feel like with each collection Marc seems to be moving further and further away from a 'wearable/accessible' sensibility. Yet these clothes don't quite make the cut for it to be exhibited in a museum either. It's time to assess his way forward, and how he'll get out of the looming red numbers on his balance sheet. This collection, and the last one, isn't it.
This just shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence as Valentino. One is a guiding light. One is dated, deluded, dodgy.
Marc is ringing his own death knell. Slowly. Painfully.... what's another one and a half hours? Dong. Dong.....
Marc is ringing his own death knell. Slowly. Painfully.... what's another one and a half hours? Dong. Dong.....
helmutnotdead
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This is the fashion I need. The Marc Jacobs that I want to see. Ridiculous, insanely ugly and f#cking FABULOUS. I feel sorry about the others designers at NYFW, because after Marc no one are going to talk about them.
The details of the clothes are exquisite. I don't even mind if this is not my cup of tea, the only thing that matters here is the emotion and the passion.
The details of the clothes are exquisite. I don't even mind if this is not my cup of tea, the only thing that matters here is the emotion and the passion.
tatouejeremie
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it looks like a f*** you to lvmh, there doesn't seem to be any desire from him to get his brand back on track
Lola701
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While this is not his best collection, i really like it!
This is fun and somehow fresh and the color palette is just delicious. Marc is a great and maybe an underrated colorist...
In terms of excess, he will never top his S/S 2016 which for me was a masterclass in that form.
It's funny but for the second season in a row, i see a parallel between Tom & Marc. Tom collection was about his fantasy, what makes him want to be a designer and what made his success. And for Marc, i feel like this is a bit of the same: The references to Saint Laurent, to early Karl for Chanel collections, some references to 70's & 80's Couture and even costumes he could have seen at Broadway or watched on TV. The "What made his success" part is very much the obvious references to his past work at Vuitton and his own brand: from the slip dress opening the show to the wide legged or Carrot pants, or the twin-sets he did at Vuitton to the ruffles, the dots, the color palette of his own brand. Even the styling trick of a sweaters belted with a velvet bow is something he has done before.
It all looks familiar because of course, it evoke recent fashion (Valentino Couture) but it's much more than that. What i love is that beyond the circus, there are still clothes that are desirable and made in the most exquisite way. The oversized grey sweater in Lurex, the sweaters with velvet bows, the babydoll dress on Adut and the dress after which has a very Lanvin by Elbaz vibe to it are just pieces that i would love to wear right now.
It will take time for Marc Jacobs, the brand, to recover. The majority of the revenue came from the brand they discontinued. But it's also great to see that Marc is still cashing on his greatest value in order to recover: creativity and fun all in fabulously made clothes.
I still think that the brand is having an identity crisis but this is needed because it gives the feeling or the illusion of High Fashion.
Nostalgia is good but as much as i enjoy this collection, Marc is at his best when he focus on today and on women's frivolity.
This is fun and somehow fresh and the color palette is just delicious. Marc is a great and maybe an underrated colorist...
In terms of excess, he will never top his S/S 2016 which for me was a masterclass in that form.
It's funny but for the second season in a row, i see a parallel between Tom & Marc. Tom collection was about his fantasy, what makes him want to be a designer and what made his success. And for Marc, i feel like this is a bit of the same: The references to Saint Laurent, to early Karl for Chanel collections, some references to 70's & 80's Couture and even costumes he could have seen at Broadway or watched on TV. The "What made his success" part is very much the obvious references to his past work at Vuitton and his own brand: from the slip dress opening the show to the wide legged or Carrot pants, or the twin-sets he did at Vuitton to the ruffles, the dots, the color palette of his own brand. Even the styling trick of a sweaters belted with a velvet bow is something he has done before.
It all looks familiar because of course, it evoke recent fashion (Valentino Couture) but it's much more than that. What i love is that beyond the circus, there are still clothes that are desirable and made in the most exquisite way. The oversized grey sweater in Lurex, the sweaters with velvet bows, the babydoll dress on Adut and the dress after which has a very Lanvin by Elbaz vibe to it are just pieces that i would love to wear right now.
It will take time for Marc Jacobs, the brand, to recover. The majority of the revenue came from the brand they discontinued. But it's also great to see that Marc is still cashing on his greatest value in order to recover: creativity and fun all in fabulously made clothes.
I still think that the brand is having an identity crisis but this is needed because it gives the feeling or the illusion of High Fashion.
Nostalgia is good but as much as i enjoy this collection, Marc is at his best when he focus on today and on women's frivolity.
artemovartem
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Beautiful collection, but I'm pretty sure I saw this before somewhere at Viktor & Rolf!
zacatecas570
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This looks like a second part from his last collection, but I like it, I'm bored with all the sport collections from every designer in NYFW
YohjiAddict
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I only like the babydoll ruffle dresses and that sweater dress that looks trés Theyskens for Nina Ricci, other looks remind me of late 00's Galliano which I'm not particularly fond of. I'll say that at least he explored his vision of grande-dame tacky grandeur more rigorously this time, last season was just too one dimensional. The separates are a bit more desirable too.
Fiercification
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It's a really pretty collection, but fashion has changed so much and it feels so out of sync with what's relevant now. He just can't seem to get his foot in anymore.
There are some amazing coats (and some not so amazing overblown ruffles all over the place at the same time), and the show feels quite high-class and expensive but we're not in 2009, 2010 or 2011, sorry. The magazines, editors and imagery that would have promoted this collection so amazingly in years gone-by don't really exist anymore, which makes this feel like it exists in a shiny vacuum somewhere within this month.
There are some amazing coats (and some not so amazing overblown ruffles all over the place at the same time), and the show feels quite high-class and expensive but we're not in 2009, 2010 or 2011, sorry. The magazines, editors and imagery that would have promoted this collection so amazingly in years gone-by don't really exist anymore, which makes this feel like it exists in a shiny vacuum somewhere within this month.
