Martin Margiela S/s 05

[Lena]

Suzy Menkes on MMM

Martin Margiela has soon to make a decision: whether he is going to keep in aspic his cool factor, acquired through off-kilter shows, where the clothes are conceptual to a fault; or whether to admit that he has matured into a fine designer, backed by Renzo Rosso of Diesel and with a slew of fans for his modernist take on classics.
The show he sent out over the weekend was maddening: in a giant hall in Paris's outskirts, black curtains turned the vast space into claustrophobic cabins, with airplane supply boxes as seats. The lights then were turned on and off to give a brief glimpse of rather lovely clothes. Why?
.
Margiela feels a need to obscure the talent that creates a slither of a satin dress, a perfectly cut pair of pants and even his new endorsement of color. Draped dresses in scarlet and jade green were dazzlers, even with a wire coat hanger and a bit of another garment attached. Enough already with garments made out of panty hose. Deconstruction is starting to look like yesterday's trend and Margiela's talent deserves a better showcase than he is giving it.

i absolutely agree on the decline of deconstraction, it almost bores me to be honest much more when it just repeats itself.. and i certainly wouldnt enjoy the cabins idea myself

i need uplifting atmospheres and fresh ideas

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 11 2004, 10:26 AM
It's supposed to be for professionals only, blah,blah, but I'm not sure if they actually check anything.  Scott or M-O-M would now.
I feel the same way about Margiela, Scott (but you know that).  And I'm glad many others on here do.

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Well,I've been using a friend's log-in for the moment. I've just been too lazy to acquire a pass myself. But you're right...normally professionals are the only one's who can gain access but they usually don't require anything too specific except you're chosen field...i.e. photographer,stylist,journalist,make-up artist etc. Normally just a simple explaination will do.

 

[macchiom]

I agree this doesn’t look too exciting.

Does anyone have pics of his menswear for S/S 2005?

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 11 2004, 01:59 PM
Suzy Menkes on MMM
i absolutely agree on the decline of deconstraction, it almost bores me to be honest much more when it just repeats itself.. and i certainly wouldnt enjoy the cabins idea myself

i need uplifting atmospheres and fresh ideas

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I'm afraid,I am just too stubborn to let go of deconstruction. But I also never felt the same way Suzy made it out to be....a trend.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott@Oct 11 2004, 02:30 PM
I'm afraid,I am just too stubborn to let go of deconstruction. But I also never felt the same way Suzy made it out to be....a trend.

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I completely agree. Deconstruction should never go away, because it is NOT a trend - it is an aspect of fashion that must be recognized and have its own place on the fashion map, just like the ethnic, the military, etc... Anyway, Suzy sucks.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Perhaps the way decontruction is approached could be seen as a trend...

 

[Scott]

I agree that some tend to approach it in a way that might render it as some frivolous fad but its really much deeper than that...

Raw craftsmanship. The way our forefathers made clothes...

 

[Spacemiu]

Deconstruction is not a trend, it has become much more widely expeted into mainstream fashion so that i think it is less revoltuionarie than when CDG and Yamamoto first did it. I love it so i will not let it go.

 

[Lena]

deconstruction is not a trend, its a 'way' a technique of making one's statement, my problem is that its been repeating itself for what seems like entire decades.. what annoys me is when some designers (not talking of MMM god forbid) act as if they've 'discovered' deconstruction, as if it's the 'new' thing or somekind of 'fresh' or revolutionary idea...
hope you get my point here.

Rei and Yohji were doing it since the early eighties while others were into day glo and shiny lipsticks, and they did it very well at that time.
Obsession with deconstruction, its not a bad thing for a consumer, but it can be dangerously 'stagnant' for a designer. Dont get me wrong

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 11 2004, 03:00 PM
deconstruction is not a trend, its a 'way' a technique of making one's statement, my problem is that its been repeating itself for what seems like entire decades.. what annoys me is when some designers (not talking of MMM god forbid) act as if they've 'discovered' deconstruction, as if it's the 'new' thing or somekind of 'fresh' or revolutionary idea...
hope you get my point here.

Rei and Yohji were doing it since the early eighties while others were into day glo and shiny lipsticks, and they did it very well at that time.
Obsession with deconstruction, its not a bad thing for a consumer, but it can be dangerously 'stagnant' for a designer. Dont get me wrong

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gotcha

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 11 2004, 09:05 PM
gotcha

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glad you did

 

[Scott]

Completely!

 

[Spacemiu]

These gold shoes are gorgeous, just my taste

 

[runner]

beautiful

 

[runner]

 

[runner]

 

[runner]

 

[runner]

 

[runner]

from le form

 

[softgrey]

thx for the pics runner...

i saw the high heel slingbacks in the store this weekend...in a nude lthr...
a really perfect shoe....heel just the right height and thickness to be sexy and yet comfortable...
toe opening just enough to be sexy without being tacky...and a slingback is always good imo...very chic...

i know that expanding footwear is part of the strategy to build the brand...and i think they're doing a good job...i think the split toe ballet flat is actually adorable too...