Mary Katrantzou S/S 2019 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

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VOGUE.COM

 

[ghostwriter10549]

This dress is so intriguing, I love it. I can see Anya Taylor-Joy wearing it.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

The only section I enjoyed was the very end - the reworking of her perfume bottle dresses from ages ago.

 

[dior_couture1245]

While not all of it is my taste - I actually think this is her best work ever, to be honest.

There’s some really intriguing, clever, playful and well executed experiments here. The jewelry box pieces are quite striking, as are the sequin pod pieces and I love the printed chain mail gowns at the end, which far surpass the original iteration of those signature prints of her’s...the sensual silhouette and slinky metal material bring the prints to life in a very beautiful way this time around.

The last couple years have felt like she’s been desperately trying to stake out an identity of her own, something that reconciles her super specific and niche prints, but also the need to create things beyond just digital, engineered prints. Recently, her work seemed to rely on the aesthetic of others, but here I feel as though she’s come up with something that looks original in a certain way.

 

[lightblue]

First pieces somehow reminds me of Christopher Kane.

 

[apple]

It doesn't look like a tenth anniversary collection: I was expecting something inspired by all her previous work, but this is very experimental and innovative. Which is even better, as the last seasons she had seemed lost. I find many of the fabrics and prints very interesting and, while I would never wear most of these clothes, you can see there is a lot of work going on here. My favourite piece is probably the Janaye's look. I can totally see it on the red carpet worn by someone who takes risks, like Zendaya.

 

[Lola701]

Nice greatest-hits collection.
Congratulations to her for being there after 10 years in the business. 10 years is difficult in modern fashion for every "new designer".
To some extend, her hype and the glory of her talent fade away a few seasons ago already but it's still a nice reminder of what she has done.

I still don't know what she is all about. I see 10 years of decorations...
It's like when Prada revisit some of her iconic prints: you love it and it reminds you of the great time. The only difference is that Prada also delivered with all black or solid colors. You don't need to see prints to recognize Prada only because she is consistent in her shapes and aesthetic.

One thing is sure: the Perfume bottles dresses will always get me! This is a real definition of looking like a million bucks. I can't wait for Cate Blanchett to wear it.

 

[Ken Doll Jenner]

I've always found her having a lot more potential than what she had offered. So seeing this greatest hits show definitely confirmed that feeling because here, she has managed to flesh out some of her ideas better. The transparent jacket embellished with fake corals and seaweeds is one of the best looks I have seen throughout this fashion month so far, as are the Shalimar Perfume-inspired, sculptural dresses that have become the landmark of her career. This collection is a much more remarkable version of both Valentino under Pierpaolo and MGC and Alexander McQueen under Sarah Burton.

 

[Marc10]

Fantastic collection. Making anniversary/retrospective collections can be tricky, but she pulled off flawlessly. Amazing nods to past collections and at the same time presenting new ideas. Love how dressy and sophisticated it looks too.

These pictures really don't make it justice btw, there are some great small details and in video the fabrics and embroideries really come alive.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

cyborgian...

i like the crochet (?) squares, and if the plastic dresses are made of recycled plastic, then all the power to her. if not, then that's a big no.

 

[Benn98]

Thought I was in a Peter Pilotto thread with the first half, but overall it's a solid collection. It does the job of reminding London what a great designer Mary is. Because I think she fell a bit iff the horse with the last few collections, at least creatively.

One would think with an anniversary collection, there would be more self referential pieces which would actually encapsulate her tenure, but alas. Her skill to work and detail with wrought fabric makes me tgi.k she'd be ok at Lanvi..