Matohu F/W 09.10 Tokyo

[runner]

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[runner]

yomiuri

 

[ilaughead]

Wow! Thanks for these!

This doesn't have that 'rustic comfort' that the previous collections have, but I think I like every single piece, especially in the first and sixth looks.

Were there only 12 looks this season?

 

[MulletProof]

very sober in comparison with their previous work. It's not bad, but I'm not sure I get the hang of it since I get the impression I've seen it before, in many other catwalks.. I like their quietness better, when they use subtle palettes and careful detailing and it creates such a lovely atmosphere in their shows.

thanks for posting, runner!.

 

[laika]

It's lovely, although i'm missing their usual lightness and exquisite use of color. Wonderful work with the fur though.

thank you runner, i was eagerly anticipating this!

 

[Scott]

i love it!

 

[gius]

i wonder if they are playing with light-dark this season...
All of the looks are monochrome and there is an interesting idea of one fabric reflecting more light and the other that is matte

I like these woven 'light' lines
light grey or white lines on black fabric
light blue or white lines on blue fabric

thanks for posting the collection,runner

 

[mishahoi]

It was a lovely collection...but I missed the first half because Ne-Net`s show was late on the other side of town..they also started without WWD Japan *and* WWD U.S. in the audience...drama

Anyway, here is an excerpt, translated by me (via Japan Fashion Week facebook group)

Nihon Sen-i Newspaper
MATOHU
This was a collection of Japanese beauty in construction fused with total sophistication. The silhouette was long and the cutting was sharp, such as in metallic woven pants that played into an unusual metropolitan overture for Matohu. The collection was in black with different textures, or the different shades of light and shadow,or like a crow which hunkers down in the night. "I didn`t want to just do `black` but I wanted to somehow express the light that is hidden within that as well," said designer Horiyuki Horihata. "Black felt, black jaquard...there are many different kinds of black out there," said the other Matohu half, Makiko Sekiguchi. Matohu built on their signature long look with new shapes in seams and prints. The theme was called "Kabuki-mono". In the Keichou era, these Kabuki-mono were known to live freely without regard to common sense and throwing themselves fervently to love. This black is overflowing with speed and is giving itself to the modern Kabukimono.

I will have video next week...too busy to edit now...

 

[Inaya]

^^^ thanks so much!!

 

[Scott]

i just love the mix of dark textures and layers....and that wonderful cobalt is perused superbly here. i've only see it done well by a couple people in bruno and boudicca and that for me is great company.

 

[gius]

thank you misahoi i love their stories



Here is a description of kabukimono from wikipedia

Kabukimono ( 傾奇者 (カブキもの) ?) or hatamoto yakko ( (旗本奴 ?) appeared in Japan, between the end of the Muromachi era and the beginnining of the Edo period, and were ronin who claimed to be samurais of the shogun. But Kabukimono were actually jobless ronin or simply men who had once worked for Samurai families who, during the times of peace, formed gangs. Kabukimono would often dress in flamboyant clothing, combining colors such as yellow and blue, and often accessorizing by wearing kimonos meant for women as cloaks, or velvet lapels[1]. Kabukimono also often had uncommon hairstyles and facial hair, either styled up in various fashions, or left to grow long. Their katana would often have fancy hilts. It is also said that Izumo no Okuni borrowed heavily from the style and the personality of the Kabukimono when she first started performing in Kyoto, which eventually led to the creation of Kabuki
Kabukimono were often very violent and rude, doing things such as not paying at restaurants and stealing money from townsfolk. Cases of cutting down people simply to try a new sword, or large incidents of violence were common in areas where Kabukimono could be found, in large cities such as Edo and Kyoto. Wrestling or dancing in the streets were also common. The highest point of Kabukimono was during the Keicho period, although also during that time, the local bakufu became more strict, and the kabukimono faded away. [2]
It is thought that the modern yakuza originated from groups of kabukimono; though other scholars believe that the yakuza origins are to be found in the machi yakko ( 町奴 ?), a form of private police.

 

[adorefaith]

i agree Laika, the use of fur is the best thing here.
i love the textures and layers.. the last picture is my favourite look, it is just perfectly balanced imo.

 

[runner]

you're welcome





their statement/explanation

" drawing inspiration from a period in japanese history reaching back over 400 years ago, kabukimono is a collection inspired by a period where masterless warriors brazenly chose to stand out. these warriors, known as kabukimono clashed against their former masters, the samurai, refusing to conform and be silenced.

their manner outlandish and language vulgar, their kimonos colorful, patterned and silhouettes dynamic, their swords decorative, their hair coif daring and flamboyant, their spirit avant-garde. no doubt these dramatic attitudes extended to their outlook on life, considering the apex of one's vibrant, passionate and beautiful existence to expire by the age of twenty-five. a philosophy echoed by an etching on a sword from this period, " have lived too long at 25 " . a wistful inscription expressing the feelings of guilt held by its owner, at his regret for still being alive.

kabukimono's audaious resistance to social norms parallels the modern-day punk movement, once again reminding us of true defiance towards conformity. interpreting this will to live strongly, to give presence to individuality, matohu's A/W 09 collection pays homeage to kabukimono's avant-garde essence using dynamic silhouettes, a dark and rich palette of colors and colorfully patterned linings. a collection to inspire the individual, giving her strength and originality to stand out, to stand alone, regardless of the times. "





" have lived too long at 25 ( 生過ギタリヤ二五 ) "
this motto is for full speed at which they tried to live life, like intense combustion.

 

[ilaughead]

this will to live strongly, to give presence to individuality

I didn't quite understand the link between the collection and the kabukimono, but that explains it well. I really like the whole loud individualism idea, and it's kind of surprising to see it come from such a quiet brand.

 

[gb_32]

thank u! i like it.

 

[gius]

so all the colour might be in the linings..? that would be interesting to see

 

[runner]

nissen
jiji

 

[runner]

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[runner]

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[runner]

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