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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by baguette, Sep 16, 2009.
IMO he and Joseph Altuzarra are two designers to watch in New York this season.
Yes, this is one of the best collections I've seen so far, inspired by Merce Cunningham, it's delicate as light, yet packs a punch when it comes to construction and shapes. A coherent collection that promises more from Ames.
i love some pieces... not sure about the rest
I have profound respect for Matthew and the way he's made his way through the industry without compromising his vision.. and his aesthetic usually speaks to me more than many others in the three major cities.. but this I can hardly relate to.. the three black dresses are beautiful, as is the lightness of the entire collection but.. I guess I don't get that mood for next summer, and I prefer him when he plays with layers and endless fabrics.. oh well.
thanks for posting, baguette.
^I agree, Mullet. It's uneven throughout for me. There are indeed beautiful pieces, yet it still left me cold. Better next time, Matthew
I heart the simple yet pure silhouettes and the exuberance of col and shape
In love with the first look. This collection is very evening, except for the bathing suit of course.
remind me of jil sander ss08
^ Only literally one piece though, maybe two.
This collection starts off incredibly. I love it. Then the one shoulder dresses are sort of.. uncalled for.
i completely agree with both,mullet and kiddo. i don't feel taken with this at all. it's so lacklustre for matthew. and am i the only who's thinks this looks like old donna karan? like you were saying mullet,if not the layered aesthetic i wish he would go back to doing that more geometric,structural stuff of the earlier seasons.
I think the frontal views of the collection renders it flat. I first saw this on ASVOF and another site with backstage pictures and the models look amazing in this, the clothes float 3-Dimensionally around them, there are variations in lengths, etc., yet it never looks heavy.
I wonder if it's because of the overload of studs, textures, collages, ropes, braids, slashes, frills, layers, paint splashes and other ornaments etc. on the runways, all trendy of course - it strikes me that Ames is quietly doing his own thing through the "noise" and this comes across like a helping of sorbet after a heavy artery-clogging meal and gooey rich dessert.
*Update* out of curiosity, as I don't recall Ames so well, I looked through his A/W2009...ack..that was pretty heavy, "mature" and clumsy. So this is probably the first of his collections I like.
Want to add that Wayne, Laing, Zero, are all the outstanding ones this season, despite very little press attention.
I am incredibly happy to see Matthew progressing so well. If anyone deserves it, it is him. The collection is beautiful. While it is lacking in some of those atypical characteristics that Matthew is known for it, it is in the same vein he has always worked in. I just wish it was incredibly moving. The idea of good clothes is so rudimentary in these times. I feel that clothing needs to speak from a visual and emotional standpt now. Most designers are still relying on the idea that all things of importance lie in the visual aspect of design. Ppl need to feel something other than the desire to want/buy; there needs to be an ineffable connection that truly makes the pieces come alive. As if the pieces are propelling the models forward rather than the opposite. It's not about being shocking or making the loudest/boldest statement, it's just about fluid honesty in the form of clothing. Sadly, I'm not feeling it here with Matthew as I usually do, but still a great effort on his part. Hopefully, he'll be back on his A-game come next season... this whole thing must be quite the transition for him.
Idk if that rant made any sense, sorry.
I'm not that familiar with Ames work so I can't comment on how it compares to his previous work, but it feels very fresh for me, especially when compared to the rest of the offerings I've seen thus far at NYC fashion week. There are some Jil Sander references (in more than one or two pieces imo) and a bit of Lanvin, even old Marc Jacobs/Narciso Rodriguez but I think the inspiration he pulls from other collections comes off clean and with simplicity and not like he ran out of ideas.
I really love the kind of ballet suit with the longer slightly sheer skirt. And some of the bolder shapes. But I will agree with others that it's not entirely without fault.
These are a couple of images that first wowed me, the balloon pants are just stunning, that red isn't an added edge but it is wrapped around the entire pants, but these details you can't tell from the frontal shots. That's what i liked so much about this collection, it isn't just a heap of ornaments in front, or collages, it moves in shapes, and to me, is superior to his last A/W. Will post more as I find them: