Mcqueen Gets Quizzed By His Peers

Scott · Dec 19, 2003

MCQUEEN COMES CLEAN
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN has a long way to go before he fulfils his design potential, he says. The British design hotshot gave away some of his design secrets during a live web chat on Nick Knight's esteemed website, SHOWstudio.com, this week, answering questions from the likes of Bjork, Tracey Emin, Alain de Botton, Jose Carreras, Azzedine Alaia and Daphne Guinness. While McQueen admitted to being inspired by animal skins - "Not so PC, but there's nothing better than nature. Nature is a fabric itself" - he put platform shoes right out of fashion, along with the fashion design course that he completed at Central Saint Martins. "Saint Martins is a lot of hype and not much substance," he said. "As a student, I spent a lot of my time in the pool room in the cafÈ since I didn't feel I was learning much." McQueen wouldn't be drawn on the subject of Domenico de Sole and Tom Ford leaving Gucci, except to admit that he wasn't happy about it. But he was more forthright about the fashion industry in general. "It's like any entertainment industry. It's fickle. I've always seen it in the same light: shallow."
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Lots of excellent points,no?

mikeijames · Dec 19, 2003

I think Alexander McQueen has always been one of the more prolific of the contemporary designers. And unlike his peer, Galliano, McQueens fancies are all wearable.

Scott · Dec 19, 2003

Very true,Mike

You must read the whole of the interview on showstudio. Its really good.

Lena · Dec 20, 2003

sounds very interesting, can you post some showstudio extracts scott?
i have no time to check this out

ignitioned32 · Dec 20, 2003

Here it is Lena. I read the interview yesterday.

IN CAMERA: Alexander McQueen

Penny Martin (Editor-in-Chief SHOWstudio), London: You are at the zenith of a faultless career and yet collections themes including dance marathons and carousels hint that you feel caught up in something relentless and gruelling. How often do you think of stopping?
Alexander McQueen: After every collection. No, usually if it's a good show it fires me to continue. Otherwise, if I'm not too happy with it, I might think of calling it a day. it depends on what mood I'm in.

James Mannox, London: What do you consider to be the greatest motivation behind your work?
Alexander McQueen: Always trying to better myself. looking for that pinnacle in my life. My career highs, which I don't think I've achieved yet.

Tracey Emin, London: Do you ever have creative blocks and does your personal life ever affect the way you design?
Alexander McQueen: Not so much the collections, but the shows are kind of auto-biographical. I've had this conversation with you before, after a bad collection. I think for anyone in the arts, it has to be autobiographical since it's so personal. You can usually tell if I'm happy or sad from my shows.

Calvin Scully, South Africa: When you are developing each collection, what inspires your choice of silhouette?
Alexander McQueen: Usually the mood of the show. If the show's oppressive and the collection is suffocating in any way, then it affects the line. If it's lighter, then things get bigger, but usually everything's tight!

Andrew, Brisbane, Australia: Your Bellwether piece on SHOWstudio showcasing your collections over the past few years is inspiring. I especially revelled in the robot assault. What would you consider are the five most important considerations in getting a design or concept off the ground?
Alexander McQueen: Balance is the main thing. The show shouldn't overshadow the clothes and vice versa. There always must be some sort of interaction with the audience to get the message accross that's going through your mind. The one show in which that was key was the asylum show, with the padded cell. It's good to leave the audience in bewilderment.

Luiz Rosa, Unknown: Have you considered designing a different line targeting to a younger (less expensive) market?
Alexander McQueen: No.

Philip Treacy, London: Which historical era has had the greatest influence on your work?
Alexander McQueen: Flemish. Van Eyck, Hans Memling. Gothic. Bosch. 14th and 15th Century Flanders.

Terri Scott, S5 Kirkland High School and Community College, Methil, Scotland: What fabric has inspired you most?
Alexander McQueen: Animal skins. Not so PC, but there's nothing better than nature. Nature is a fabric itself.

Adil Oliver Sharif, NU Magazine, London / Brandon Pierre, US: How much of an impact did Saint Martins have on you and your design skill? And, what were you like as a student?
Alexander McQueen: St Martins is a lot about hype and not much substance. As a student, I spent a lot of my time in the pool room in the cafe since I didn't feel I was learning much.

David Solis, San Antonio, TX, USA / Alexandre Camargo, Sao Paulo/SP - Brazil: Your perfume 'Kingdom' has a very distinctive smell. Will you launch some perfume for the masculine public?
Alexander McQueen: I'm working on it now. It will be launched in 2005.

Florencia Pomar, Buenos Aires, Argentina / Director of MJK Models, Louisville USA: What qualities do you look for in the fashion models that present your collections?' And who is your favourite model ever and why?
Alexander McQueen: The show dictates the models we use. The show's always different so the models used are always different. I don't have favourites so it's about what's right for the show.

J G Ballard, UK: When will clothes be computerised?
Alexander McQueen: As soon as I figure out how to use a computer. I'm working on something for the future. It's just a constant chore to bring clothing into the 21st Century.

Alain de Botton, UK: Are you interested in making beautiful clothes or fashionable ones? What is the difference? What do you see as the connection, if any, between LOOKING good and BEING good? For much of Western history attempts were made to unite beauty with goodness. Why does fashion have to change? In response to what exactly?
Alexander McQueen: I'll take one of those. The only way I can answer this is that sometimes, I feel it's my job to give people that different part of their personality - the opposite of being demure- to hide behind. When I witness people in McQueen, when they walk into a room, people want to know to know more about that person, from having selected to wear those clothes. I don't want to sound big-headed, but it makes them appear more interesting.

Alexander Rymkevich, Fashion Editor, 'Fashion Collection', Moscow, Russia: If you were asked to create a monument to 'fashion victims', what would it look like?
Alexander McQueen: The John Heartfield photomontage with the dove. It would replaced by all brand logo monograms, pierced by a sword.

Monica, Australia: What items of clothing make you cringe when you see someone wearing them?
Alexander McQueen: Platform shoes. It's all about proportion and that's not proportion.

Ronnie Cook Newhouse, London: What is the difference between romance and sex? How does it apply to your work?
Alexander McQueen: I think it's the difference between making love and having sex. your heart goes into it and sex is on a superficial level. Romance is where my heart is.

Deborah Pach, Melbourne, Australia: Lately, menswear has been starting to adopt the aesthetic of women's for variety, colour and style. What would your ultimate male image be? Dandy, S&M, homo-chic, Gucci-slick, updated punk, etc?
Alexander McQueen: Menswear is I think fundamentally designed by men themselves. It's the hardest part of any house to design, because it's such a resistant audience. Men don't like being dictated to like women.

Alan Minter, UK: Have you ever designed an outfit for a World Champion Boxer? If you were asked to design a robe for a boxer to wear when entering the ring for a World Championship Title Contest, can you describe roughly how it would appear?
Alexander McQueen: I named my dog after you because I've got such a big crush! I would, but only if it's for you!

Priscila Torminn, Brazil: I would like to know what makes a haute couture garment haute couture (technically) and who makes it?
Alexander McQueen: To make Haute Couture, you have to have an atelier of at least 50 people working for you. Every piece, every panel, every button is hand-made. Mainly, you have to b e a member of the Chambre Syndicale.

Jose Carreras, Spain: Should classical artists perform concerts and recitals in formal tails or would you propose another idea?
Alexander McQueen: I'd like to see you in denim and cowboy boots. Maybe Pavarotti in a jock-strap?

Bjork, New York: Have you ever thought of designing clothes for an opera?
Alexander McQueen: No, but if you were in it, maybe. I can see you in Madame Butterfly, but based on the moon.

Stephen Li, Brighton, England: Although homosexuality is still a contentious subject in Western society, you seem not to be scared by letting your sexuality known. Has that required bravery? Has your sexuality helped you to design your collections?
Alexander McQueen: I think before you get onto a public platform, you have to deal with yourself before you put yourself out there. Things like sexuality always come out, and you come off worse by not being true to yourself. I came out in i-D magazine when I was 19. I remember it like it was yesterday. Yes, I think my sexuality has helped my designs.

Bita Mansouri, Reading: Where is fashion heading?
Alexander McQueen: To the abyss.

Stephen Li, Brighton, England: Since the Gucci Group has supported your work your collections have become more commercial than ever before. Which elements have affected you since that time?
Alexander McQueen: It's never become more commerc ial: it's always been the same. Nothing affects me.

Susanna Crosta, London: What type of industry has fashion been to you? Do you still see it in the same light as when you entered it?
Alexander McQueen: Fashion is like any entertainment inhdustry. It's fickle. I've always seen it in the same light: shallow.

Azzedine Alaia, France: Knowing what type of person you are, I would like to know if you would be interested indesigning for another brand again, and if so which one?
Alexander McQueen: I may consider it.

Chatpon Jamsirirojrat, unknown / Gustavo Guzman, Texas / Claudia Croft, London: How do you feel about Tom Ford and Domeico Desole leaving the Gucci group? And, are you going to be involved in Gucci or YSL in place of Tom Ford?
Alexander McQueen: Sad and no comment.

Mary Moore, New York: Which fashion designers or companies do you admire that don't get the recognition they deserve?
Alexander McQueen: Koji Tatsuno. Margiela. Dirk Van Sanae. Too many to mention.

David, Los Angeles / Kate Smith, (plus size model & fan), South London / Amy Jane Goble, Los Angeles: Does fashion really matter?
Alexander McQueen: Of course. Does sex?

Nick Knight, London: When I collaborate with you on a visual problem I'm always impressed that you appear to have almost total clarity about how you envision the end result, whereas I need to work through many possibilities before I come to a conclusion I am certain about. Are you conscious and confident of this lucidity, and does it carry through to other areas of your work and life?
Alexander McQueen: Yes, usually I visualise an end result before I embark on a project. If I can't see an end result, then I don't think it's possible. Then, at the end of the day, I like to make mistakes.

Sergio Calderon, Santander, SPAIN: What do you think of the status fashion has in the twenty first century regarding its relationship with other 'arts' like design or visual art?
Alexander McQueen: I think fashion has been put more on a level with the entertainment industry. I don't think fashion and art as two separate entities really combine. Fashion is more to do with entertainment.

Louisham, Singapore / Al Saulso, Houston: What is your thought process when creating a piece? Does it just happen as a random thought or do you look at all of the variables first and sort out the best one?
Alexander McQueen: It's precise. Everything is always finely tuned. There is no room for manouevre.

Jeffrey Lacson, Chicago, IL USA: Do you see your work as a process of taking in culture and reinterpreting it in your own way?
Alexander McQueen: Again, my work is biographical, so anything I expereince, I digest and then vomit back into society.

K.S., freelance journalist, Moscow, Russia: Sincerity or irony?
Alexander McQueen: Sincerity.

Kate Moss, London: Do you wear a butt plug?
Alexander McQueen: No, but I might need to soon.

Elenor, Los Angeles / Ken Ludlow, Chiswick: It is rumoured that you embroidered 'c*nt' into the lining of a jacket you made for Prince Charles. How are you feeling about your recent approval from the 'British Establishment'?
Alexander McQueen: I didn't embroider it, I wouldn't waste my time! I wrote it with a biro. I accepted the CBE for my parents. i'm not a big royalist.

Adah, Milan: What is your favourite film?
Alexander McQueen: Paris Texas. And Salo by Passolini. Any Wim Wenders is good.

Joel-Peter Witkin, USA: What is your personal definition of beauty? I appreciate you collecting my work and would like to know what you consider beautiful in my work.
Alexander McQueen: I think there is beauty in everything. What 'normal' people would perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it. I appreciate your work with the same depth of feeling as that of Bosch. Your Leda and the Swan is one of my favourite pieces. I find the man so graceful.

Daisy Garnett, Commissioning Editor, Vogue, London: Who do you admire admire and holds in high esteem - for their work, deeds, values or beliefs - in any walk of life?
Alexander McQueen: The Queen nof England, because I'd hate to have her job. Anyone that can do that job must be a bit insane, so you've got to give it to her.

Ellie Stacpoole, Battersea, London: In response to the controversy surrounding the Giorgio Armani exhibition at the Royal Academy, Do you think there should be more fashion exhibited in galleries?
Alexander McQueen: No.

Vittorio BONI, Italy: Give Michael Jackson ONE MORE CHANCE. How would you restyle him?
Alexander McQueen: Member of the Nazi party.

Katy England, London: Describe what would be a fantasy moment of pure happiness to you.
Alexander McQueen: Katy you dirty cow, 10 12" d*cks

Anna Kudevich, Jurmala, Latvia: Vladimir Nabokov was sure that letter 'M' was pink. His wife Vera didn't agree saying it could be nothing but blue. What colour is your 'M' and your 'A'?
Alexander McQueen: Lilac and black.

Susannah Frankel, London: Can you please tell a joke?
Alexander McQueen: Me.

Daphne Guinness, London: If you could go back to any period in history which period would you pick?
Alexander McQueen: Victorian London, Jack the Ripper time. I'd like to find him.

Daniel Pratt (13), London / Chloe Kerman, London / Family Rihl, Vienna / Gustavo Guzman, Texas / Morgan, Paris / Florencia Kozuch, Buenos Aires, Argentina: What tips would you give people who want to make their way in the fashion business?
Alexander McQueen: Have a complete understanding that you're good at it before trying. Otherwise, don't bother because it's not worth the pain. I wouldn't try to be an actor.

Jake, Auckland, New Zealand: Who do you most want to surprise next?
Alexander McQueen: Myself.

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Scott · Dec 20, 2003

It's quite enlightening. It really had me appreciating he and his work a little more than I already did.

I loved what he said about St. Martins.

PrinceOfCats · Dec 20, 2003

Read Kate Moss's question!

Acid · Dec 20, 2003

Originally posted by PrinceOfCats@Dec 20th, 2003 - 4:03 pm
Read Kate Moss's question!
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i had to do a double take

Lena · Dec 20, 2003

great idea, cool questions and very intelligent answers, i respect him more after this 'web interview'

kudos to the showstudio team for the brilliant idea
thanks for posting here igni

tealady · Dec 21, 2003

Originally posted by Acid+Dec 20th, 2003 - 12:20 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Acid @ Dec 20th, 2003 - 12:20 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-PrinceOfCats@Dec 20th, 2003 - 4:03 pm
Read Kate Moss's question!
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i had to do a double take[/b][/quote]
Yes, what's up with that??? And do you think Prince Charles is taking apart the lining of his jacket right now?????

smashinfashion · Dec 21, 2003

some of those questions were hilarious/stupid. i was impressed by how intelligent and witty he is.

Salvatore · Mar 5, 2005

I love him.

Diorling · Mar 5, 2005

Why was Alaia asking such a question? Do you think he may have been hinting at something? Or am I being crazy?

YES!! He's coming out with a fragrance for men!!! I love Kingdom so I can only hope with this fragrance, I hope he names it Queendom just for kicks.

brian · Mar 5, 2005

Diorling said:

Why was Alaia asking such a question? Do you think he may have been hinting at something? Or am I being crazy?
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he better not be hinting at anything! ...mcqueen would be so wrong to design for alaia. that's my job.

melt977 · Mar 17, 2005

tealady said:

i had to do a double take[/b]
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Yes, what's up with that??? And do you think Prince Charles is taking apart the lining of his jacket right now????? [/QUOTE]

I would guess that Moss's question came as an answer to Mcqueen's question to her, during her live showstudio interview some time ago. He asked her if she likes anal sex or something like this...

fab_fifties_fille · Mar 17, 2005

Wow thats a very interesting interview, I love his dryness, this isnt meant to be a pun ...but it's not as if he dresses anything up that he says to make people think better of him/something...I think it's fabulous x

nqth · Mar 17, 2005

Thank you, Scot and Igni for interesting thread

Sorry for off topic, what controversy came out with Armani exhibition?

Mr-Dale · Mar 17, 2005

Alexander Rymkevich, Fashion Editor, 'Fashion Collection', Moscow, Russia: If you were asked to create a monument to 'fashion victims', what would it look like?
Alexander McQueen: The John Heartfield photomontage with the dove. It would replaced by all brand logo monograms, pierced by a sword.
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Hahaha, I love him

Mythique · Aug 15, 2005

I really like McQueen and I love his idea for Bjork as Madame Butterfly set on the moon. I can't say I agree w/ him on platforms, though and it is kind of odd he said that as he designed possibly the most beautiful platforms ever:
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22295&page=3&pp=20

Diorling · Aug 15, 2005

Mythique said:

I really like McQueen and I love his idea for Bjork as Madame Butterfly set on the moon. I can't say I agree w/ him on platforms, though and it is kind of odd he said that as he designed possibly the most beautiful platforms ever:
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22295&page=3&pp=20
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I KNOW! I was thinking that after reviewing the S/S 05 collection. He had a lot of platforms and wedges, quite contradictory.

Mcqueen Gets Quizzed By His Peers

Scott Stitch:the Hand

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Mcqueen Gets Quizzed By His Peers

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mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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Scott Stitch:the Hand

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Lena etre soi-meme

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