Miguel Adrover F/W 12.13 New York

[Nicolasa]

gettyimages.com

 

[Nicolasa]

gettyimages.com

 

[Nicolasa]

gettyimages.com

 

[MulletProof]

**** yeah woo hoo!!

The makeup is already whispering on my ear.

Go, Nicolasa!

 

[Nicolasa]

February 11, 2012, 9:15 pm
Miguel Adrover Returns
By ERIC WILSON

Shortly before Miguel Adrover’s return to the runway tonight after a roughly eight-year absence (not counting the small presentations he has made for a German eco-label called Hessnatur), I stopped backstage to say hello.

Mr. Adrover, a designer who sort of looks like Jesus, was studying a model who was wearing what looked like half of a tropical rainforest, with sharp bones protruding from her jaws.

He gave me a big hug hello and I told him he looked skinny.

“I feel like I’m going to faint,” he said. His nose was running into his beard, something I noticed, rather unfortunately, when he gave me a big kiss on the mouth.

You never know what to expect with Mr. Adrover.

In the late 1990s, I had covered his meteoric rise after he showed a collection that tore apart fashion’s sacred cows, and also, his spectacular fall after he lost his financial backing in 2004. Back then, he had ripped apart a Burberry trench coat to turn it inside out into a dress, resulting in a cease and desist order, and once made a coat from what was described as the mattress ticking of a bed that had belonged to Quentin Crisp. He was the embodiment of the anti-fashion movement, a group of designers who railed against the big brands like Gucci and the notion of manufactured luxury.

But over the years, Mr. Adrover became something like the designer who cried wolf. His provocative collections never went anywhere. But important editors and retailers still lined up to see his return on Saturday night, partly because it will be unpredictable and partly because fashion people like to have their buttons pushed.

It was worth the trip, if only to witness such an outburst of creativity. Mr. Adrover reprised some of his greatest hits, making a dress out of men’s shirts that had been tied together, building the shoulders of a jacket with baseball caps, and, yes, reworking a Burberry coat. There was a sweater with knitted cats crawling all over it, and shoes that ended with gloved leather hands, each flexed into aposition with the middle fingers raised.

The clothes are hard to describe, sort of like collages. In his press notes, he wrote that he imagined a plane having dropped luggage from its cargo hold over the Amazon, and theYanomami people finding the contents and putting clothes together in a haphazard way. A Gap anorak, for one example, became the cape of something like a dress. And in their way, the resulting garments were remarkably more beautiful than the original pieces.

This collection, for what it is worth, was called “Out of my mind.”

runway.blogs.nytimes.com

 

[_Andrea_]

 

[_Andrea_]

All images (also the previous post) from elle.com

 

[_Andrea_]

elle.com

 

[_Andrea_]

elle.com

 

[_Andrea_]

elle.com

 

[_Andrea_]

elle.com

 

[Shelton123]

Some of it is trying WAY too hard, but the pieces that aren't are generally good.

 

[Scott]

I disagree. anybody who's familiar with miguel and his previous work,this collection comes as no surprise. he always makes a very bold statement.

welcome back miguel!

 

[trikekos]

This is pretty interesting and weird but I like it... The fashion people at twitter were talking about his return and it seems he brought a lot of people to his show. I did some research and he was quiet a favorite in editorial, what happened?

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I smiled scrolling through - always a good sign. I love the styling, makeup and theatrics. Some pieces are excellent too; you can see them on the street. The "Wall Street" looking woman throwing the money, the giving tree, etc - it's a tongue in cheek statement on modern times. Ha, laughed out loud at the model with the life-saver around her neck - classic moment.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Unique!

 

[Deleted member 1957]

wow quite interesting and this is what fashion is missing today

 

[Machinegumm]

Impeccable! Very inspiring collection.

 

[MulletProof]

Every looks seems to be an entire story on its own.. it gets so beautiful at times and then it feels like he's talking about his absence with the money and baseball references.. and his return, and his time off, and evolution.. I got goosebumps looking at this.. at one point I thought he'd never come back (should we get our hopes up for Jurgi now? or maybe Branquinho?).

Thanks for the pictures, Andrea!

 

[rui]

Welcome back Miguel!
So glad to see him return to the runway and continue to challenge the status quo with his own intense viewpoint!
This is so refreshing to see at NYFW. There is creativity, uniqueness and social commentary through his work where many designers showing in NY play it way too safe and conservatively.