November 24, 2024
Eminence of Accessories
“Fashion is not about utility. An accessory is merely a piece of iconography used to express individual identity.”
CREDIT: The Devil Wears Prada, 2006
With this quote from the iconic film, now two decades old, it is possible to reflect on the role of the accessory in today’s clothing. Fashion is born when the need to dress is extinguished, and the instinct and desire to represent oneself through apparel and accessories and the mere need for everyday use becomes apparent.
The definition of an accessory is blurred, and thus, it takes a “non-important” outline and embellishment role compared to what the protagonist is within a look. Brands are aware of market trends as they are of the trends raging among fashion addicts, and accessories such as handbags, shoes, glasses, and hats have become the central element of outfits shown as much in everyday life as on the runways.
If shoes and bags used to be chosen based on the clothes worn, today, the reverse can happen, to emphasise one’s Jackie by GUCCI, slippers by BALENCIAGA, or the Baguette or Peekaboo by FENDI. It is interesting to analyse how brands use accessories to reach an increasingly broad commercial market; at the same time, stylistically, they work on re-signifying established codes within their brand identity, contrasting with monograms and logo-ed buckles to emphasise their identity to the whole world.
So, what can we consider the most iconic accessories of recent seasons?
Bags, undoubtedly more than others, have become the most recognisable and identifying element for luxury fashion houses. Oversized to carry under the arm, like BOTTEGA VENETA’s large and ultra-luxurious woven Maxi Lauren 1980 leather bags, or micro to hold with two fingers, like JACQUEMUS’ Le Petit Chiquito, handbags are now the helm of every self-respecting brand.In recent seasons, brands have confirmed and redesigned some of their Maisons’ historical models; others have decided to introduce new, eye-catching models to entice new customers and provide fresh options to loyal ones. The moment when ALEXANDER McQUEEN’s F/W 24/25 full-of-stud Large Slouch Bag was dragged by the model down the runway, presented by the creative Seán McGirr, marked the contrast with the clutches of the past and has undoubtedly remained etched in the collective imagination.
FENDI, a master brand in leather and accessories, decided to present during the F/W24 women’s fashion show the new simply Fendi model in multiple large and mini sizes, juxtaposed and worn at the same time as the iconic baguettes and peekaboo, with the new “soft” proposals in hammered leather and the designs of the classic statues so dear to the Roman Maison. New models that have immediately established themselves and imposed themselves as must haves for the coming season are BALENCIAGA’s large and spacious Bel Air, with a minimal and fresh design that is certainly eye-catching, and DIOR’s new Dior Groove bag, a reinterpretation of the Boston-inspired trunk. This joins the more renowned Saddle and Lady Dior, the dream of all luxury enthusiasts.
Iconic models undoubtedly remain among the most wished for and coveted by the public, in new versions such as the PRADA Galleria in feathers in the latest winter collection or CHANEL’s 11.12 model presented in super desirable pastel tweed variants in the Métiers d’Art collection presented in December 2023. Classic models like DOLCE & GABBANA’s black or leopard-print Sicily remain revered.
GUCCI, as mentioned earlier in this list, this brand is founded precisely on accessories, some of the pillars of its identity, which, with creative director Sabato De Sarno and with its Gucci Rosso ANCORA, has redefined in the common imagination the historic bags such as the Jackie and the GG in the new colour palette.
Handbags are also designed and researched, luxurious and precious, primarily when they represent the Maison’s emblem of couture, surrealism and abstraction like Schiaparelli’s.
Anatomy Jewelry Bag, which fuses the imaginary worlds of its creative director Daniel Roseberry, with the most catchy accessories of our time.
However, handbags are only one of the accessories that attract the attention of the enthusiast public. Shoes, eyewear, belts, charms, scarves, wallets, hats, phone covers, and small leather goods are just part of the various categories of accessories presented on the catwalks every season and fill the store displays. BALENCIAGA’S sunglasses, for example, with their iconic maxi masks shown on the last fall/winter runway, which are different from the tapered “runner” models of past collections, have very quickly become a must-have for Generation Z. Shoes, like handbags, are the focus of every luxury brand, the ultimate desirable object. Those who decide to collect them and change them for every occasion are undoubtedly the passion of many enthusiasts in the industry.
Some shoes have also made history, such as ALEXANDER McQUEEN’s Armadillo shoes, rather than GUCCI’s horse-bit loafer, now reproduced in many variations. The lace-up leather ankle boots from Miu Miu’s latest winter collection exemplify extreme versatility. Casual and comfortable to wear for daytime with denim, sophisticated when paired with an oversized midi dress, or fancier as shown on the runway in contrast to colourful clothing, they will undoubtedly be among the most coveted products, as was the case with the logo-ed moccasin in a collaboration between Church’s and Miu Miu last summer.
Compared to clothing, accessories are often more moderately priced and do not compulsorily follow trends. Instead, they can become evergreen and carry over many seasons. They also have sizes that do not have to respect the fit of the body, thus being more versatile. This makes them the best option for a gift, the perfect object of desire to be purchased for oneself or others. Therefore, accessories attract the gaze of many today, both at fashion shows and in everyday life. Once only supportive of the look, they now carry luxury on their buyers’ shoulders (or feet) worldwide.
