New Heidi Slimane 3 New Colognes For Dior

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by nqth, Jun 11, 2004.

  1. nqth

    nqth arndom

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    From wwd.com

    repost from basenotes.com



    Dior’s Cologne Triumvirate

    By Miles Socha

    PARIS — “Old school” is hardly a term one associates with Hedi Slimane, a strident modernist whose men’s wear for Dior Homme is about as forward-thinking as you can get.

    But that’s how the designer describes his new trio of fragrances for the French house. The colognes, the first since Christian Dior was founded in 1947, are meant to evoke French perfumeries of yore — with the powdery scents reminiscent of the 18th century.



    “Sometimes extreme classicism makes more sense than making something else, and it sometimes feels more contemporary,” Slimane told WWD during an exclusive preview. “I wanted it to be quite disconnected with fashion timing — to signify the idea of longevity.”

    The fragrances, the first created from start to finish by Slimane, are slated to arrive in Dior Homme boutiques and corners next month — a total of 16 locations worldwide.

    Prices are in line with the exclusive distribution, ranging from $98.50, or 80 euros, for 125 ml. up to $197, or 160 euros, for the 500-ml. size. A scented candle is to be added to the line in December.

    Slimane said the scents are meant to communicate his ideas about masculine style and allure — but allowed that women could wear them, too.

    Cologne Blanche, or White Cologne, is a classic amber cologne, which includes notes of rosemary, sweet orange, orange blossoms, bergamot and vanilla, plus a sweet almond accord.

    Eau Noire, or Black Water, is the scent Slimane himself wears. Described as a sweet oriental lavender for evening, it contains notes of white thyme leaves, vanilla pod, clary sage, lavender and cedar. There is also a violet stem accord.

    Meanwhile, Bois d’Argent, or Silver Wood, is a woody fragrance, whose juice has notes of incense, iris, myrrh, patchouli, honey and leather.

    Although Dior only expanded Slimane’s responsibilities to fragrance and beauty products a year ago, the designer began concocting a scent immediately. Indeed, when he opened his minimalist atelier at 40 Rue Francois Premier in 2001, “I wanted to have an odor that would feel and smell like Dior Homme,” said Slimane, who worked with Quest International and Firmenich on developing the formulas.

    The result was Cologne Blanche, which Slimane only now will commercialize. Very perceptive followers of the Dior Homme saga might have detected a whiff of it at his last fashion show, since all the models were spritzed with it backstage.

    In fact, Slimane’s beauty ambitions stretch back to his days as the men’s designer at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, where he earned his reputation as the most exciting men’s wear designer of his generation. “I actually had a plan to do cosmetics at that time for men,” he revealed. “I left before I was able to do it, and as you know, [Jean Paul] Gaultier recently did it, which is great.”

    Yet at Dior, Slimane said his first idea was to do cologne — to express its tradition of bespoke tailoring and couture and also his modern, architectural approach to fashion.

    Surprisingly, for a designer hailed for his rigor, Slimane describes the packaging for the colognes as “almost non-design.”

    The classic round flacon is capped with a black lacquer stopper with Slimane’s signature plissč or pleated effect — meant to evoke a cummerbund. It comes packaged in a thick Bristol board column-shaped box with the Louis XVI ornamental molding found at Dior’s Avenue Montaigne headquarters.

    “The idea was to keep it totally authentic,” he said. “We weren’t faced with any marketing concerns. In this case, it’s a pure couture thing. There is no need for us to be talking to a large number of people. That was not the point of it.”

    To wit: No advertising campaign is planned. “There’s no marketing at all around it,” he said. “It’s about having the cologne in an exclusive distribution.” So exclusive, in fact, that financial considerations don’t seem to be the main concern. The project apparently is more a matter of image and artistry. Dior executives did not break out projections or budgets, but industry sources estimate that the global volume of the three fragrances might amount to $1.5 million to $2 million.

    Not that big isn’t beautiful, too. Slimane revealed he’s working on another new Dior men’s fragrance meant for large-scale distribution. Still, he hinted that the cologne project “really gave a different feeling of the way we should work.”
     
  2. kit

    kit New Member

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    As a matter of interest , does ANYONE remember the CHRISTIAN DIOR men's cologne , ' JULES ' ? :heart: :heart: :heart: :heart:

    It's my favourite , of all time !!! ' ABSOLUTELY ' NO doubt :p :p :p :p

    I have to make do with ISSEY MIYAKE MEN , And YOHJI YAMAMOTO MEN as second bests .

    Perhaps they will revive it , as they have done so with , ' EAU SAUVAGE ' and ' FARENHEIT ' , recently .

    KIT
     
  3. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

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    Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent sound absolutely lovely :heart:
     
  4. Spacemiu

    Spacemiu New Member

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    i would love to try Bois d'Argent :heart:
     
  5. PrinceOfCats

    PrinceOfCats Naturellement pulpeuse

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    Love it...Mr. Slimane is now officialy signature-e-fied
     
  6. tott

    tott slightly dizzy

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    Eau Noire sounds lovely, I'll have to slip into the boutique and try it when it becomes available...
     
  7. datura001

    datura001 New Member

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    Eau Noire is just amazing with its sinister green colour...I've gotten more questions about it than I've known what to do with! Pick some up...
     
  8. Meg

    Meg inspired contemplation

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    I'm excited to smell....and am glad that mr.slimane realizes that girls can wear cologne too :innocent:
     
  9. Mr-Dale

    Mr-Dale Unveil Yourself....

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    Sounds pretty good....now I wanna smell them too :p
     
  10. Dior

    Dior New Member

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    i know little about the "Cologne"

    Do they smell better?is it different from other perfumes
     
  11. faust

    faust New Member

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    Sounds good. I'd like to smell them. Maybe a good excuse to actually go to the Dior store.
     
  12. boxma

    boxma New Member

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    is there a competition between Galliano and Slimane ? even on scented candles :unsure:
     
  13. datura001

    datura001 New Member

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    They're all very different, made up of fancy schmancy top notes but blending and melting into really beautiful, wearable scents that are bound to get you all the right attention. The salesman told me the scents were about five years in the making and explained some supposed 18th century detailing in the bottle and label pressing, repeated a lot of the same stuff that's in the article. Hedi's own scent is a little sinister, very strong but somehow sweet, very, very sexy. The Blanche is very Dior Homme, strong, sweet, optimistic, powdery with orange and brightness as it begins to wind down, it really makes sense as a scent that represents the house. D'argent didn't really do anything for me, it reminded me a barber shop a bit but perhaps my nose was tired from trying to decide which one I'd take home with me...though some Dior fans snatched SupersizeD bottles of all three without even smelling them! Gotta love that enthusiasm.
     
  14. Dior

    Dior New Member

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    how about the prices
    ???
     
  15. raijin

    raijin New Member

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    im curious about the prices as well,
    are they only sold in dh boutiques, or will places that carry dh like saks have the cologne as well?

    I would love to try the Eau Noire ;)
     
  16. faust

    faust New Member

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    They are around $100-120. Yes, they are sold only in boutiques. I smelled all 3 of them, and I didn't like them at all. The only one with any kind of personality was the Noire, the two others smelled like soapy water - way too generic.
     

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