EXCLUSIVE: Ludovic de Saint Sernin to Stage Show in New York on Feb. 11
The one-off runway presentation at New York Fashion Week reflects the designer's sizable U.S. customer base.
By JOELLE DIDERICH
JANUARY 8, 2024, 7:00AM
PARIS — Having built up a sizable customer base in the U.S., Ludovic de Saint Sernin is coming to New York City for a one-off show, marking his first runway presentation outside of Paris.
Known for sensual, gender-fluid designs, including his signature eyelet-studded, laced-crotch briefs, the designer is scheduled to unveil his fall 2024 collection on Feb. 11 at the Starrett-Lehigh Building, the official hub of New York Fashion Week: The Shows, the brand said in a statement shared exclusively with WWD.
“Words can’t quite express how excited I am to be bringing LdSS to New York City,” said de Saint Sernin, whose designs are strongly influenced by photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, who documented the New York S&M scene in the ‘70s and ‘80s.
“It’s always been a hub of inspiration, due to its legacy as a key location in the history of contemporary queer culture and some of today’s defining artistic movements, but also due to the incredible community that has built around the brand in the city,” he continued.
“It’s so touching to see that there’s such an affinity with what we do. With this show, I hope to be able to show just how much we appreciate and admire New York and the people that make it what it is,” he added.
The U.S. market accounts for 32 percent of the brand’s total sales revenue, making North America the largest region in terms of turnover, it said, declining to provide additional figures. Retailers who carry the brand include Saks, Moda Operandi, H. Lorenzo, Net-a-porter and Fwrd in the U.S. and Ssense in Canada.
LdSS plans to return to the Paris Fashion Week men’s schedule in June.
Founded in 2017, the label was a finalist for the 2018 edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers and for the International Woolmark Prize in 2020. It won the ANDAM Creative Label Prize in 2018 and was shortlisted again for the award in 2021.
Born in Brussels and raised in Paris, de Saint Sernin graduated from the École Supérieure des Arts Appliqués Duperré. The designer, who cut his teeth at Balmain before striking out on his own, also served briefly as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester.
While Paris-based brands including Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Givenchy have staged shows in New York over the years, Paris has traditionally been an even stronger draw for U.S. designers.
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, was pleased that de Saint Sernin would be bolstering the New York lineup for the upcoming shows, scheduled from Feb. 9 to 14.
“New York Fashion Week is a powerful stage with international appeal and a destination for global brands to connect with the American market. We are delighted to welcome Ludovic de Saint Sernin to the official NYFW schedule for his next runway show, adding to the collective and creative strength of the week,” he said.
The sentiment was echoed by Kim Fasting Berg, executive vice president of marketing at WME Fashion, owner and operator of NYFW: The Shows. “New York Fashion Week’s global platform provides a stage for designers to connect with new and existing customers, and we’re eager to see Ludovic’s creative vision come to life,” she said.
