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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by Flashbang, Jun 14, 2010.
^ There was also a report about Gareth Pugh taking over Thierry Mugler as well.
They aren't giving new designers much of a chance these days are they?
^ No, they're not. Probably because it's safer to go with an already established designer.
omg no! nicola should stay away!
So he's responsible for all those Gaga atrocities. I remember a time when fashion actually had something to say and was used to empower. Back then, it was called Madonna and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Now fashion is all about the attention-wh*re kingdom of Gaga. The cult of the paparazzi.
What would Formichetti know about design? He's a stylist! Sure, he knows fashion, but I bet we're in for "avant-garde" collections of 80s costume vomit.
^ exactly. and if he became the head designer, are you imagining the horribleness? GAGA IN THE CAMPAIGNS, GAGA WEARING TM ALL THE TIME ETC. it's just gross. if they want a good designer, they should choose WISELY. of course, it's just a rumour.
Which is essentially what Mugler himself was doing until his departure in the late 90s/early 00s...
I guess there won't be much change then.
I'm not thrilled with the idea of Pugh or Formichetti having any part in the Mugler brand. In my eyes, Pugh is over. He's shown that all he's capable of doing is copying Leigh Bowery and Rick Owens. He is not avant garde, he is not original, he is not talented.
And Formichetti? I'm sorry...he is not a fashion designer. Leave fashion design to fashion designers. Sure he is not Lindsay Lohan, but he is Lady Gaga, and Mugler, like Ungaro clearly regrets Lohan, will regret this decision once the hype of Gaga is over.
A new designer would be ideal, but if they insist on someone established, I still stand by my desire to see Chalayan at the helm. His love for science, technology, retro-futurism and showmanship would fit the house well...and his highly sophisticated taste would be a good balance to the house's campiness.
And while I don't see it happening really, I can't help but wonder what Theyskens would do at the house. His last Ricci collection was incredibly Mugler, and while I hated that collection at first, I now find so much beauty in the extremity of that collection...and I think Theyskens could make that a habit at the maison. Also, Mugler was a master at eveningwear, and despite his over-zealous love of kitch, he was perfectly capable of making a breathtaking, dramatic gown. And isn't that Theysken's specialty? (I'm sorry...I know it's terribly cliche to suggest Olivier as head designer whenever any opportunity opens up, but this time, I don't think it's so unreasonable!)
I'm not sure what everyone's getting their panties in a twist about. Artistic Director isn't the same as Design Director. If anything the position is kind of like that of an editor. So if it's true Formichetti will be in charge of the brand's overall image, things like directing the mood of the collection, deciding what will go into the collection and what won't, putting together the presentations/runway shows and advertising. He's got a background doing those things on a smaller scale, so while he might not know a thing about making clothes, with a good design team he wouldn't be a fish out of water either.
TBH though I'm just over the idea of trying to resuscitate the house. The image of it is so inextricably linked to a specific time in the past, even Mugler himself didn't seem to know how to make his clothing relevant after the early 90s. I have trouble imagining anybody doing something that avoids literal references to the archives while also creating a look that embodies the spirit of the house.
I'd give Mugler more credit than that. Sure, his collections look like costume in retrospect, and he was definitely capable of grave sins of kitsch: the motorcycle gown, for instance; but that's because the general aesthetic of the 80s (any era actually, but moreso the 80s) is so singular in the context of contemporary fashion that any attempt to recapture the 80s perfectly makes it simply camp and costume. What is costume today was actually fashion design back then. An exception: much as I dislike him, Decarnin for Balmain has successfully re-tailored the 80s so that his clothes only veer towards kitsch, whereas Formichetti... Not even a hint of irony or self-consciousness in his work for Gaga. And that's why I foresee costume vomit.
Mugler's work in the mid to late 90s, though, is indefensible.
I agree with dior couture. I think Theyskens is a better fit. Chalayan is already doing wonderfully with his own line, so any assignation would probably be superfluous (or even detrimental: Gaultier's own house suffered when he started working for Hermes).
^Correction: motorcycle dress, I mean.
^ I wasn't talking about the work he did in the 80s, I can appreciate that for what it was. I was referring to the fact that well into another decade, when fashion had changed drastically, he was still churning out the same thing, only amplified. So like I said if all this new collaboration ends up being is campy and costumey, there really won't be much change from when the namesake was still at the house.
Just wondering: isn't 'Artistic Director' what Lohan was at Ungaro?
Though Theyskens' final collection for Nina Ricci yes, was very Mugler, I really don't think he would be in his comfort zone designing for the house - Theyskens' is a historic-romance-novel designer; his woman is firey but coi, while Mugler's woman is the sharp-witted villain.
As for Chalayan, I'd have to agree with the person that said he was minimal (please not using his latest collection as an example) and though he can be experimental to the point of being contrived or kitsch (ice dresses..?) he's not brash.
If Mugler is going to be revived successfully, a suitable personality is needed and I don't think that either flower-bed Theyskens or electro-dress Chalayan are suitable.
Well, you weren't really clear about it Like I said, his work from the mid-90s onwards is indefensible (it was self-parody more than anything) so I think we're pretty much on the same page.
That was me, and I knew I wasn't the only person who thought this. I just find his vision very clashing with Thierry Mugler. Chalayan is too edgy, he's all about the future and looking forward while Thierry Mugler is all about exaggeration and shock value.
The only person I've ever thought would have a chance of reviving Mugler was McQueen. Apart from him I don't see anyone else fit for it.....Betsey Johnson
I couldn't find a thread on this. I think this is BIG news. A decent revive for Muglers house. Sounds great. And nymag didn't spell his name properly. Sorry for not seeing it early enough.
Sounds exciting anyway!
I personally think that Nicolas Formichetti has terrible taste and a subpar aesthetic , but let's see what he conjures up for the house. He has those archives to guide him, after all. Unfortunately, knowing how to style does not necessarily mean you have the vision for design.