http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/full-length-photos/id,9956# Not entirely sure how to embed images here. Seeing if this will work. Credit Vogue.com Nicolas had a gap in his own label work having a spell at Cerruti and returning to showing in his own right last season. He occupies that Demuelemeester, Pugh, Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens et al territory but manages to bring a healthy dose of high octane sexiness without losing his edge and I like his work very much. An all black collection for spring summer is fine by me and testifies to the darkness of his heart. Last season Nicola Phelps wrote that he was showing signs of filling the void left by Helmut Lang which I'm not sure I understand too well. Whilst I'm all in favour of his positioning and he forms a nice introduction to some of what will follow in Paris, on first impression I would have liked to see him push the envelope a bit more with this collection. His positioning sort of requires he dare to originate a bit more if he's to continue to receive the plaudits. Leftfield but derivative doesn't really work but cool work nevertheless and a welcome addition to the schedule.