Nicolas Ghesquière to Launch LVMH-Financed Fashion Brand

[MulletProof]

The sad thing about Young designers from Fashion schools is that the majority of them don’t have fresh ideas and expect to be at the same level as someone like Nicolas, who is autodidact and who started at 18.

[...]

I feel like people coming from fashion schools, even more the very expensive and prestigious ones, are already eaten by the system.

But do you know the majority or what they're about with any certainty? are you sure Nicolas' success is their ultimate goal? we have seen about.. zero young emerging talent afforded the same major financial and creative liberties in a long time, do you think they can be judged on school presentations? hardly, they're subjected to teachers, the generational challenges this inevitably brings, limited resources and academic demands.

18 has been for centuries about the average age to know and be passionate about something, with 13-17 already nurturing that outside formal education... it happened to Nicolas, it happens to people that are currently that age, nothing prodigious about autodidacticism. Nicolas was given a chance after demonstrating talent, these chances are currently strangled enough so young people accept a series of inconsequential internships for the rest of their 20s, followed by corporate-ish, slightly creative positions that will only contribute to strengthen the 5-8 dinosaurs sitting comfortably in the same seat since 2000. Once you're 35-42, already seasoned enough to know how to play along with the system and know which of your least sellable ideas to discard on behalf of the salary you would be stupid to sacrifice, then you *might* get a chance.

Stating they don't have fresh ideas at an age where humans are naturally at their most receptive is down there with 'back in my day, there was real music!'. Same for wanting them to model their trajectory after someone who created based on a context (sociopolitical, you name it) that mirrors yours. That's just giving in to aging so easily, seeing newer ones with antagonism and deep skepticism..

I'm not saying Nicolas should be put away in an elderly home so as to make room for the young, just don't monopolize the field any more than it already is. He could champion a recent graduate while he sits in his luxury brand conglomerate for the next 4 years, instead we'll open another door, just to find Nicolas in there too. It's toxic.

 

[Lola701]

But do you know the majority or what they're about with any certainty? are you sure Nicolas' success is their ultimate goal? we have seen about.. zero young emerging talent afforded the same major financial and creative liberties in a long time, do you think they can be judged on school presentations? hardly, they're subjected to teachers, the generational challenges this inevitably brings, limited resources and academic demands.

18 has been for centuries about the average age to know and be passionate about something, with 13-17 already nurturing that outside formal education... it happened to Nicolas, it happens to people that are currently that age, nothing prodigious about autodidacticism. Nicolas was given a chance after demonstrating talent, these chances are currently strangled enough so young people accept a series of inconsequential internships for the rest of their 20s, followed by corporate-ish, slightly creative positions that will only contribute to strengthen the 5-8 dinosaurs sitting comfortably in the same seat since 2000. Once you're 35-42, already seasoned enough to know how to play along with the system and know which of your least sellable ideas to discard on behalf of the salary you would be stupid to sacrifice, then you *might* get a chance.

Stating they don't have fresh ideas at an age where humans are naturally at their most receptive is down there with 'back in my day, there was real music!'. Same for wanting them to model their trajectory after someone who created based on a context (sociopolitical, you name it) that mirrors yours. That's just giving in to aging so easily, seeing newer ones with antagonism and deep skepticism..

I'm not saying Nicolas should be put away in an elderly home so as to make room for the young, just don't monopolize the field any more than it already is. He could champion a recent graduate while he sits in his luxury brand conglomerate for the next 4 years, instead we'll open another door, just to find Nicolas in there too. It's toxic.

I should have been more precise. I wanted to say « young designers from fashion schools ».

I just don’t think that fashion schools that cost a fortune really worship creativity.

 

[jeanclaude]

The question is "what is avant-garde" in 2018?

No! No Alber! I think that Alber doesn't have the versatility that i expect for someone doing Chanel. Obviously, the new designer won't be there for 30 years.
I would rather see him at Dior than Chanel...

Yes, Phoebe is still on my list but tbh, Chanel might be the less stressful brand out of all the big brands. The Weirthemers are not even living in France.
If the next designer has as much freedom that Karl, he will be very happy...

I am gonna answer to you "what is avant-garde in 2019?" with another one of your answers:

"What I want from fashion is to be able, in the future to create careers similar to Nicolas. I would love for the next big designer to not come from a very expensive school and to have the time to explore his creativity before being eaten by the system."

THAT should be a mantra in the stale fashion industry for the near future. This is why avant-garde ideas are asleep right now. It is time for the system to stop thinking that, just because you can afford an expensive school, you are gonna have talent as a designer.
Talent cannot be bought, either you have it or not. And as long as they don´t change their mind, fashion is gonna keep being pure boredom.

About Chanel, my dream would totally be Phoebe; but I said Alber for one reason: he made a good YSL mini-tenure back in the late 90s. And Chanel always said about YSL that "he has talent, because he always copies me"...so that´s why I think Alber could work at Chanel (although I can also see him making a good Dior too).

 

[Salvatore]

I do hope he starts to design like he did at Balenciaga because I have been mostly unimpressed with his work at Louis Vuitton. Maybe he was saving his best work because he always knew he was going to get his own label. If so, that would explain alot for me.

 

[style_expert]

He could champion a recent graduate while he sits in his luxury brand conglomerate for the next 4 years, instead we'll open another door, just to find Nicolas in there too. It's toxic.

I understand what you mean. And to be honest, do we really need another brand?
I think Nicolas already has had the opportunity to create whatever he wants in terms of RTW at Louis Vuitton, both financially and creatively. And maybe he has shown us the best he could but it was just not very good. He was so extremely good at Balenciaga because of the specific history and codes of that house and the way he could re-interpret them in a very exciting way. To start from scratch, his entirely own inspirations are far from original.
He really needs another clique as well, his collaboration with MAS has become more than stale.

 

[helmutnotdead]

What ever happened to this?

 

[Lola701]

What ever happened to this?

With the Corona I guess this can only happen at the end of his contract...In 2023.

 

[aracic]

Y'all nasty for bringing this up out of the blue...

 

[perfect blue]

Damn I got excited for a second.

 

[helmutnotdead]

lol love you guys

 

[tricotineacetat]

If his current work at Vuitton is any indicator what his own fashion house would look like, I really don't mind him postponing it. It's been a good while since I enjoyed a collection of his and I don't think right now is a very inspired time in fashion to begin with.

 

[gallianostan]

 

[tourbillions]

think he was smart and went with safety over the risks of having his own house. Besides no one wants another "john galliano" or "karl lagerfeld" type of brand.

 

[gallianostan]

think he was smart and went with safety over the risks of having his own house. Besides no one wants another "john galliano" or "karl lagerfeld" type of brand.

i mean... the jg and kl label were very very different to each other lmao

 

[tourbillions]

i mean... the jg and kl label were very very different to each other lmao

they are both flops though sadly. i cant see another mcqueen style sneaker with karls face

 

[LadyJunon]

think he was smart and went with safety over the risks of having his own house. Besides no one wants another "john galliano" or "karl lagerfeld" type of brand.

I think Lacroix ended up even worse.

 

[tourbillions]

I think Lacroix ended up even worse.

thats a good one.. why does it keep happening to these amazing designers. Lacroix has become a low end department store brand.

 

[gallianostan]

they are both flops though sadly.

if john didn't drunkenly hurl antisemitic slurs i think the label would've been just fine. lagerfeld on the other hand... that was barely even a "brand"

 

[Lola701]

He was clever not to launch his own brand. He will have to pour even more runway shows now and therefore have more collections to direct.

if john didn't drunkenly hurl antisemitic slurs i think the label would've been just fine. lagerfeld on the other hand... that was barely even a "brand"

John’s brand was never profitable though…Even at the peak of his success. It was only maintained because of the licensing deals…

Karl is even more different. I don’t think he cared for the brand. I think the only time he truly cared was when he owned it and when it became Lagerfeld Gallery. I mean he even stopped designing for it once it was bought and they decided to change the strategy.

But I think a lot of things have to be said about greed sometimes.
I think Galliano, Lacroix, Lagerfeld and other brands could have been just fine if suits didn’t want them to be huge operations. I think sometimes the model of development has to discussed.
LVMH poured an insane amount of money on Lacroix. It has never been profitable.

The beauty of it is that talent was the motivation for it but Lacroix’s style was clearly far from the aspirations of women in the 90’s.

 

[Salvatore]

LVMH poured an insane amount of money on Lacroix. It has never been profitable

How much did LVMH launch Lacroix with ?