Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth. by Michiko Suzuki S/S 2012 Tokyo

Psylocke

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Former Y's Red Label designer Michiko Suzuki staged her spring fashion show for her line, which bears a slightly awkward name of musical origins, in a church. Accompanied by live, hymn-like piano music, models were decked out in loose, asymmetrical pieces that were a nod to the designer's roots with Yohji Yamamoto, who himself sat second row at the show. The majority of the collection was rendered in neutral black and white, with the only shots of color coming from rugby-striped tops and skirts that looked like they had been made from recycled American flags. Black lace details were present throughout, showing up as accents on skirts, in delicate shawls tied at the neck, and on a men's vest worn between the relaxed jacket and pants of an updated tuxedo.
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same source
 

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last few


Just discovered this but I'm already madly in love :heart:
 

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thanks to user500 for letting me know about this thread...

and thanks to psylocke for posting this collection...

i think this is excellent...
i'd wear almost everything...
i really like the romantic lace accessory pieces...
they add a softness to the sharp edges...
:woot:

it's very much like what she was doing at Y's...
the yohji training has clearly paid off...
and it's so nice that he was there to support her solo work!!!...
will be interesting to see if she develops more of a unique style now that she is on her own...


great thread- thanks again!...
yay!

:clap:
 
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thank you Psylocke for the images


this seems to be the first runway under the label name of nocturne.
after her departure from YY inc she did one in the fall of 2009, but the brand name was different if I remember rightly.
and this is the third collection from nocturne.

since images available are not many enough I'm going to post the S/S 11 (the first nocturne) here just for reference.



asahi
tailorkadowaki
allabout
 

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Really great collection! Some of these pieces have an 80's/vintage Comme des Garçons feel to them. Love it!
 
Symphony of style from new Japanese fashion designer
November 12, 2011 by Niki Bruce
Every now and then one comes across something new in the world of fashion that really makes you sit up and take notice. When it’s unexpected, it’s even more exciting.
At Parco Next Next’s Phenomena 2011 show held on Friday, November 11, there was among the ten shows one that really stood out, and that was Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth by Japanese fashion designer Michiko Suzuki.
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20black%20skirt%20with%20white.jpg
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20white%20lace%20with%20black.jpg

Distinctly Japanese volume and shapes from Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth Spring Summer 2012 collection
Granted, the designer Michiko Suzuki spent eight years under the expert tutelage of iconic Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto and ended up as the chief designer of his independent Y’s Red Label.
Still, this experience, knowledge and skill is exactly why Michiko’s Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth label made such a splash on the runway. There is no escaping that quality design must be based on perfect technique as well as capacious creativity.
The pieces seen here in Singapore were from Michiko’s Detachable Femininity collection for Spring Summer 2012 and featured loose shapes in monochrome with a few splashes of collegiate coloured stripes.
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20coloured%20stripes.jpg
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20white%20hero%20dress.jpg

Collegiate coloured stripes and white chiffon over the Stars & Stripes from Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth Spring Summer 2012 collection
Yes; there was a distinct “Yohji Yamamoto” feel to Nocturne, but only insofar as Yamamoto is a global fashion influence. Nocturne’s shapes are closer to the body, lighter in most cases, more feminine and have a distinctly punk edge to them.
The addition of colours came mainly from the fabric sources; Michiko’s entire collection was created from recycled fabrics and garments. Oversized rugby shirts were restructured into cosy and casual, draped dresses, tops and skirts; the sleeves cleverly refashioned into waist-cinching ties.
While these pieces were clever, the show-stoppers were the monochrome wool and lace pieces that had a kind of “Wild West preachers join an 18th century orchestra” feel about them.
Coats and jackets cut with a wide yoke back and morning coat tails were layered over filmy shirts or three-dimensionally buttoned pinstripes shirts and worn with pants cut with wide legs and fold-over tie waistbands.
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20androgynous%201.jpg
Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20androgynous%202.jpg

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Nocturne%2022%20In%20C%20Sharp%20Minor%20Op.%20Posth%20SS12%20black%20dress.jpg

Androgyny (above top) and overt femininity (above) from Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth Spring Summer 2012 collection
There was a distinctly androgynous feel to many of the pieces ‒ so much so that at the after show pre-order sale the items were snapped up by both guys and girls ‒ with a subversive femininity seen only in lace touches on jacket interiors and the softness of the fabrics.

Another layer of interest came from the punkish unfinished hems on skirts made of multiple layers of suiting fabrics, each pleated layer cut at a different length and bringing to mind the old school punk trend for kilts.
Two stand-out dresses in black wool trimmed with spidery lace had an added three-dimensional quality created by origami-like folds of fabric adding volume to a squared-off shape and allowing the waist of the dress to protrude, with the long skirt then floating about the body.
A delicate white chiffon dress was toughened up by being worn over a multi-fold skirt made from an American flag, as was a long over blouse of white lace when worn with black pants and layers of vests.
Overall, the SS2012 collection from Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth just made Singapore fashion lovers want to spend, spend, spend. Only available in Singapore by pre-order from the Make One’s Mark pop-up store at Parco Next Next until Sunday, November 13, the after show frenzy was testament to the quality of the label.
Singapore’s godfather of fashion, Daniel Boey, was overheard saying he wanted everything: He might not have bought the whole collection but he admitted to spending a couple of thousand dollars.
Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth is not cheap, but they’re not ridiculously expensive either. These clothes are as well constructed and cut as any higher end label, better in fact that many brands you’d find on the high street. The fabrics, despite their origin, are fabulous. It’s obvious that Michiko’s connections and skills have gone into sourcing them.
But what makes Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth so good is the mind of the designer. When seen on the catwalk the pieces are stunning, very “high fashion” in concept and shapes, but when tried on and worn by ordinary people, they are extremely wearable and wonderfully comfortable; there’s just something very “morish” about this label.
I recommend you get to Parco Next Next this weekend if you possibly can, you’ll experience something well worth your trip.


herworld.com
 
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the yohji connection goes farther than one might have originally thought...
:o

Ringing like nursery rhyme primed for weak punning and adorable stuttering, will it be on everyone’s lips?
By : ThinkMaven

Yuji Yamamoto, son of influential Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, takes point in this six-shooter assault on Singapore’s vulnerable fashion scene with his RE.BIRTH multi-label store concept.
RE.BIRTH was created in 2010 to help nurture up and coming Japanese and Asian designers. Now that they are ready to leave the nest, the younger Yamamoto stands poised to launch them to stardom via Singapore’s own fashion incubator project, PARCO next NEXT.

The six aspiring Japanese fashion designers under his wing, including some who have trained under his father, will be featured in the new 334 square-foot pop-up store MAKE ONE’S MARK, at PARCO next NEXT(Level 2, P2-28, PARCO Marina Bay, Millenia Walk) this 10th November to 26th December.

The six include:

Michiko Suzuki (Nocturne #22)

reader_suzuki_594x395.jpg

thinkmaven.com
 
8 November 2011, Tue
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    thinkmaven.com
 
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softgrey thanks for the articles
so the "multi-brand fashion company" which the long article posted in the general yohji thread was referring to turned out to be that re.birth.
I had heard of rebirth but didn't think it was the said company yuji is at.
the rebirth co is based in sapporo, the northernmost big city in japan.
and the company is a sort of collective of designers, textile mills and clothing manufacturers.




about post #6, this is a bit confusing.
but strictly speaking, before the S/S 2011 which she calls "the first collection", there had been a collection she calls "the debut collection, pre-S/S 2011" sold in stores during F/W 2010 season, from september 2010. which I guess was practically a capsule F/W 2010.

the black-and-white images are for the S/S 11.
the palely colored ones are for the pre-S/S 11.

found a few more from tailorkadowaki
and tiny images from yusuketamura, the photographer
 

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this is the brand she first did after leaving YY inc, "contrapuntal".
I believe it had a background different from nocturne.

and michiko suzuki at work




maison-de-contrapunctal
 

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Thank you softgrey and runner for all the additional images and information! This is turning into a new obsession, I love everything so much. I hope due to the connections to Yohji this collection will eventually be sold at Yohji's London store or somehwere else in Europe where I can get my hands on it. There are so many pieces I'd die to have from this collection. I feel like this is slightly more feminine than Yohji's lines and it looks easier to wear than Limi Feu...in other words, it's absolutely perfect.
The back story is interesting. Do we have any other threads with information about Re.Birth and its designers? Curious to know more about the other brands as well.
 
love them!...thank you!...
:flower:...


i confess-
i was kind of amazed t discover the connection to Yohji and Yuji...
especially considering that we were just discussing Yuji in the Yohji thread because of that old article posted by MP which mentioned him...

this also explains a bit further what yohji was doing at the show...
not only supporting his protege but also his own son!!!...

i think we need a thread on 'make one's mark'...and re.birth...
from what you have explained runner and from what articles i have been able to find-
it is sort of everything for this group of designers that it represents-
a showroom, press office, sales office and retail outlet---as well as a manufacturing and production contact/resource...

this is really fantastic, isn't it?!...
it supports young designers but also the small mills and factories i think...
it's also interesting that they are moving deeper into the asian market rather than coming west...
everyone says that China is the new frontier, and it would seem only logical that the neighboring countries in asia, including Japan would have an advantage there from a cultural and logistical point of view...
I think that Yohji is quite popular in China no?...
didn't he do a big fashion show there a couple of seasons ago that you posted here runner?

he must have very strong contacts and relationships there...

so---
i guess that fashion is really the yamamoto family business...~~!!
 
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this is the brand she first did after leaving YY inc, "contrapuntal".
I believe it had a background different from nocturne.

and michiko suzuki at work




maison-de-contrapunctal

wow-
thank you!
such luxurious fabrics!!!...
very different than this collection made entirely of recycled garments...

i wonder if the recycle thing is something that is just for this collection or if it is part of the concept of re.birth...?
i can't tell from the pics of the earlier collections that, as runner says, seem to be sort of a pre-collections...
:unsure:...

ok- now i have to start a thread for re.birth...
B)
 
great backstory and the timeline is very helpful. thanks guys for making the effort to post what is sure to be the beginning of a remarkable re emergence of Michiko Suzuki
lucky are the people who are able to visit re.birth. i'm incredibly envious and realize its probably going to take years before the u.s gets lucky enough to see the clothing irl.
love the ad copy "hi, i'm back" its explores the same confidence her work does...
 
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you're all welcome

softgrey yes he did the show etc back then. and according to his mother he personally has a huge collection of vintage chinese jackets he has been gathering long since.
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60/ys-yohji-yamamoto-f-w-08-09-beijing-67606.html


probably the recycle thing is not just for this collection. there has been a remake line named " nocturne #23 in e minor, op. posth. " at least since the S/S 11.
and some pieces from nocturne #23 seem to be incorporated into this nocturne #22 show.


tailorkadowaki
 

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catalogue images for S/S 12


tailorkadowaki.com
 

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