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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Sep 28, 2018.
i definitely can't be objective here - he used hans bellmer's works for his prints so for that alone i'm in love.
i'm not a fan of *everything* but it's elegant, wearable and far from the hideousness most of the rest are sending on runways, so it's a win for me
Lol I hope Olivier is also a fan of Silent Hill 2 (the video game) because I was getting vibes.
These clothes are a bit sad.
Not a good spring collection unless I'm missing something.
save for that horrendous denim coat he insists on, everything else looks strong and almost calming to look at, it's modern but not so trendy to the point of being disposable as with most collections seen in the past weeks. It's also a bit more adventurous than his previous collections since he came back.. which is kind of irrelevant for me, I stopped being interested in designers getting themselves out of their comfort zone at all costs (especially to satisfy dumb consumers).
Anyway, good one!
Not his best. Doesn't feel particularly forward. I've liked his last couple of shows, and in fact, Fall 2017 still stands out as a pretty strong collection with memorable looks and a really convincing proposition as to what Theyskens' aesthetic can do for a woman in today's cultural climate.
But this looks a bit amateurish. The Hans Bellmer prints are nothing to write home about and come across as a bit like student work. It's not a fresh reference...would have been much more curious to see Olivier interpret his work in a more abstract way than just throwing prints onto some silk.
I also think the styling looks too Ann Demuelemeester. The leather harness vests, twigs in the girl's hair, floppy boots, ties and straps hanging everywhere...doesn't feel very Olivier.
Anyway, I still root for him. There are some gorgeous looks...the long black dress and jacket on Hannah Elyse looks really beautiful and compelling.
looked at some of the details and yum.. I always want to hug his leather pieces and this is no exception..
.. balanced with a tiny Rochas throwback (but not graphic enough to send the wrong message to the wrong people, thanks!)..
And pretty backs as usual..
Stylin' with an edge
If it's what he'll produce in six months, they are absolutely gorgeous. Beautiful gradation, rich details, cool coats. Love it.
So different from what everyone else is doing and all the more powerful thanks to it. Solid collection, very early aughts in its simplicity and aesthetical purity. No silly tricks, just stunning garments.
I am liking it
This is exactly what he should have done in the very beginning.
It's a courageous collection from Olivier and I appreciate it for that even though it's not always working for me - He has proven a very sensitive hand with colors during his tenures at Rochas and Ricci, I'm not sure if pale yellow sells can convince me just as much. He should maybe think of bringing back Calla Haynes to design digital prints for him again, now that she is no longer doing her own brand - Her painterly prints really made some of his best and most artful collections stand out because of that.