Origami, Folds, and Hard Edge F/W 07.08

[Pastry]

I have been noticing a shift from slouchier volume to more structured and rigid shape..
it also seems more designers are interested in folding, tucking, moulding fabric.

-Clavin Klein
-Jeremy Laing
-Marc Jacobs

images: style.com

 

[Pastry]

style.com

 

[Pastry]

style.com

 

[MUXU]

i like rigid as much as slouche

some proenza schouler

style.com

 

[Couture_Tribe]

I really like Jeremy Laing's. I would love to see some interesting folds, origami and hard edge in clothing for a change. I have seen a few in Derek Lam's collection as well IRRC.

 

[ApertureRomance]

Hmmm Sophia Kokosalaki maybe ?

 

[Pastry]

I started the thread becasue i thought we might see some of this in London and Paris as well...perhapas not Milan
in any case, I'm excited to see if more designers will explore this in their collections.

 

[Mr-Dale]

^^Or Dior couture naturally

Style

 

[MulletProof]

one of the most interesting emerging trends this season!
thanks pastry!.

 

[Pastry]

thanks for the images Mr-Dale
yes, i wanted to post Galliano's dresses as well, but I thought it would make him seem like the "first one" to do this, which i don't think is true.

I think it's a case of similar thinking rather than inspiration from Dior. Maybe a mild backlash against the droopy volume of the past few seasons. So instead of gathering, designers are excited about pleats.

If I had to pinpoint any recent trendsetter it would Miuccia with her Miu Miu S/S 07 collection. (Some of the dresses in the MJ collection this season, are quite obviously inspired by the Miu ones.)

The idea of respecting the warp and the weft of the fabric, the clothes were all very geometric or pleated. It's easier for mass production too, which was a predominant idea for Russian constructivist clothing.

I also recall some work by the contemporary atist Andrea Zittel , where she made a functional warbdrobe based on that principle. And it turned out quite beautifully, too.

phew, i guess i've got a lot to say about "origami, folds, and hard edge"

 

[Feline]

I hope to see more of this trend around - I really like the contrast to the loose & baggy looks. The Dior ones are amazingly beautiful and intricate, but I really like how it can be done in a very wearable way too

 

[Spike413]

As much as I personally identify with draping rather than constructing clothes in my own work, there is a part of me that loves to see sharp, clean lines that hug the form rather than graze it. ....plus, I've seen more floaty empire waist dresses then I cared to these last few seasons.

Looking through the Calvin Klein collection with those wonderfully subtle folds worked into pencil thin dresses and boxy, structured coats that somehow had a feel of frozen liquidity I was very, very excited by the silhouettes. Those clothes look like they're moving, but you know there isn't an ounce of movement involved.

I'd been noticing this trend too, but I kept thinking of it as sculpture, the balance between a crisp fold and a somewhat soft looking tuck.....it's as if the details were carved from marble.

 

[ilaughead]

I thought those were some of Proenza Schouler's best dresses this season. I can't wait to see how the French interpret the trend!

 

[morgan38]

I can't say how happy I am to see this emerging as a trend. Slouchy shapes were fun, but honestly I'm growing very very tired of them. Some of the structures and shapes so far this season have been amazing. I love the Calvin Klein coat you posted, Pastry.

 

[Alejandro]

Im totally into this, I like the structure.

 

[masquerade]

i love this look sooo much

 

[Inaya]

Just loving it.

 

[Pastry]

I love the Calvin Klein coat you posted, Pastry.

Is it not amazing?! Yes, the folds are fun, but the way it wraps in on itself...just goes into nothingness!

 

[Spike413]

Donna Karan played with folded and pleated oragami-like details as well....

style.com

 

[kate_is_goddess]

I like it!