Paco Rabanne F/W 2020.21 Paris

I like Dossena at Paco. His collections always have this kind of vibe but seem to be upgraded season after season. And they're usually good for editorial purposes and seem to sell well online.
Helps that he's working with Sauvé, though.
 
I actually like this collection. The chainmail is surreal!
Some pieces are like costumes but I don’t find them as shocking as when it’s weeder or Simone Rocha.
The ranger boots are fabulous!

I really think that this collection deserved another cast and I feel like maybe Dossena is a bit limited in the frame of MAS’s styling. It feels like he wanted to fully express his creativity but the tension of MAS’s styling does not match with me this time. Her touch is maybe too visible...

That being said, it’s great to see Dossena fully coming into his own. I barely see traces of Ghesquiere anymore in his collections.
 
I saw some medieval/apocalyptic sci-fi story here and I was amused. But RTW clothes it ain't. The Rabanne is strong in the one though.
 
The proportions are ridiculous. You would have to be at least 5'10 to pull off any of these looks in real life. Moving on from that.... Who is this woman? Where does she live? In a castle? :lol: Paco Rabanne is modern and cutting edge. Where does this fit into the brand DNA? You can't just throw in a few chainmail and palette dresses and call it Paco Rabanne. The entire collection has to tell the story. This brand could be fabulous, like Balenciaga by Ghesquiere fabulous, instead we got whatever the hell this is.
 
Not sure why he tried to do some Jeanne d’Arc realness here but it’s so ridiculous I love it.
 
The styling is a bit too heavy handed but it doesn't come off as weird as you're making it sound, there's that eclectic vibe he's been exploring for quite some time this time infused with a heavy dose of historic fashion, there are moment where that makes for clothes that don't really belong in the past nor the present, but at the very least they make for a memorable show along with more palatable options, i.e: The coat on Kris.
 
Designers NEED to focus. This overly eclectic and hodge-podgey type of collection is getting exhausting and no longer is charming or surprising. I really want to see all this fat cut out and be left only with what is essential.

Marc’s show in NY this season perfectly illustrated how refreshing and mature it is to see a designer reign things in and give you a refined and focused, singular idea for the season.

This is like throwing spaghetti at the wall and none of it is sticking.

Terrible cast, as well.
 
I somehow love it. Even if it does resemble Burton’s McQueen, he does a better version of it. :lol:
 
It instantly reminded me of McQueen's 'Joan of Arc' Fall '98 show and this put it at a disadvantage from the start for me. A few facts: I like Dossena at Paco Rabanne a lot. He is exploring his style and tries to do different things, and for that I applaud him. There are some fantastic looks, like Look 10 and Look 16. But as a whole I can't say this is one of his better collections at Rabanne; he's been much much better in the past. Perhaps the pieces will work better on their own but as a show it is suffocating me.
 
There are some interesting ideas and pieces here but it feels like he’s taken every look one step too far.
 
Tbh I loved the chainmail in this collection. Not wearable overall but super gorgeous in motion.
 

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