voila, the parisian trends from fwd 
glad they are counting heavily on rising Martin Grant, adorable Margiela and directive Elbaz at Lanvin.
seems like Galliano/Chloe are somehow passè no?
views please?
glad they are counting heavily on rising Martin Grant, adorable Margiela and directive Elbaz at Lanvin.
seems like Galliano/Chloe are somehow passè no?
Paris Lightens Up: The Post-Show Trend Report
By Karl Treacy
October 17, 2003 - Paris
After a fall season marked by an obsession with protection and armor, the spring shows in Paris assumed a lighter, more optimistic point of view. Though vintage looks were channeled, it seems that we all want to live a life of carefree fantasy rooted in "better times" once the new year comes around. Here are the trends that emerged:
The Flapper Dancers
The dancing goodtime girl found her utmost expression at Alexander McQueen, where she danced herself into a death-defying frenzy in swishing light flamenco dresses and looks that F. Scott Fitzgerald would have approved of. At YSL, her dropped waist and fluttering hem became more pronounced. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin also nodded to the '20s with narrow jackets that fastened low on the hips, but Stella McCartney's flappers were modern girls who just gotta dance, as were Isabel Marant's, whose short jersey dresses were intelligently alluring. Tsumori Chisato injected some hard-edged sexiness and Poiret-inspired looks, while Martin Margiela lightened up with basted Vionnet wrappings that recalled that couturier's output in the Jazz Era.
Goddess & Glamour
Think the gals from Mount Olympus rather than those from the Golden Globes, when it comes to the drapery that slithered through the shows. At Viktor & Rolf, tuxedos and shirts sloped off the shoulder and draped dresses morphing into pants were exceptional. From the home of one of the great drapers, designer Koji Tatsuno sent out alovely collection for Gres that gently introduced origami into the mix. Valentino's
Folds and Bows
Martine Sitbon's fluid collection flowed with folded and layered looks with big puffy bows sprouting from waists and shoulders. Lanvin's skirts and dresses, due to their single piece of cloth construction, folded and wrapped at the back, building into loose bustles and bows. At Rochas, Olivier Theyskens went mad for bows, sprinkling them everywhere with wild abandon.
Short Skirts
It's not just a continuing rumor: Designers do want you in short skirts and dresses and the sooner, the better. You've got this season to get used to them so when things warm up this spring and you peel off those thigh-high boots, you'll have no excuse. There'll be minis in swinging jersey at Valentino, smothered with seams at Costume National, pleated gladiator numbers at Martin Grant, hanging with cargo pockets at Ann Demeulemeester and shorter than their matching tweed coat at Chanel.
Poetry's In Town
It seems a cop-out to describe a dark collection as poetic, but by adding a sense of raw lyricism to their trademark urban looks, some designers managed to build a bridge between bleakly modern and beautiful. Witness Margiela, who folded and wrapped ever so gently to engineer trompe l'oeil garments, or Demeulemeester, whose models had a statuesque grace in white. Rick Owens' folded and falling fabrics glowed in a mixture of warm and icy hues, while Helmut Lang brought the fragility of a dragonfly wing to his signature aesthetic.
Color & Print
Sun-faded vintage prints wafted by at Sonia Rykiel and graphic ones skipped past at Chloe, but in the end that muted effect won out in Paris on prints and in the general color scheme of things. With white a great clarifying color, sharp black and white combos still made strong impacts at Chanel, Viktor & Rolf, Demeulemeester and Valentino. Green was peppermint on the one hand, loud aquamarine on the other. Fuchsia was another strong recurring shade that came tempered to burgundy at many shows and often segued to a rusty vermilion. Shots of blue electrified Louis Vuitton, but there, as well as at Dior and Martin Grant, the visual effect was softened with the use of old gold and milky metallic shades in satin and sequins. Watery, bleached shades also dominated, whether oyster, pale duck egg, eau-de-nil, or a million variations of taupe, dove gray and dusky pink. Gres crystallized the whole thing in faded rainbows of paneled fabric.
views please?
I completely agree about Margiela and Helmut, but I also want to add Yohji's main line and Rei to that list. 
I'm not too sure , yet. 
