Peter Do S/S 2023 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

Not my favorite collection, it looks like he went full Helmut Lang mode this season, and it's kinda been there done that.

But there are some gorgeous pieces, My favorite look looks 53. It's the best look in this collection. Those flowy trench coats are also good.
If this collection was cut in half it could have been great. He can edit out those literally "hommage" to HL looks, and those weirdly cut men's trousers can also go.

Overall he has potential and I'm still rooting for him. At least someone among the young designers in NY still cares about the cut, the materials, and the craftsmanship of the clothes and not just making a stunt.

 

[LadyJunon]

I liked most of it. The abundance of leather and the platforms made it fell less "Céline", more Peter Do. Hate the celeb casting though.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The best of this show are the vaporous pieces, which bring to mind Ann Demeulemeester (particularly the degradé ones).

In general I’m left cold by this collection, the womenswear doesn’t excite any sense of wonder in me and the menswear is not something I covet either. Weirdly enough I can’t pinpoint the root of my dissatisfaction, it’s very correct…but there’s nothing more.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Compared to the majority of what NYFW has brought us, this is rather impeccable in comparison. It is made well, the textiles are (mostly) on point and there is some kind of timelessness in some of the pieces. But there isn't much nuance at all. All the lapels look like stock standard ones from Pattern Magic or Winifred Aldrich's books, and everything looks like it was made too much on the stand. Nothing really looks fully considered as being on or with the actual body. I agree with you @YohjiAddict, it is all very "correct" in a bothersome way.

It is far better than his last show, but I dunno there's just an emptiness to it all and there's too many looks. I also don't feel super amused at the idea of the "goth ninja" look circa 2008-2012 to make it's resurgence again.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I should be pleased about this collection but am not. There is a lack of soul. I see some Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Calvin Klein but not Peter Do.

It is a good collection; some looks are nice, but he needs someone not part of his crew to shake things up to make it right before his brand becomes stale...

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

This looks very 2012-ish, not 2022.

I get the vibe when Haider Ackermann was trending back then a decade ago. It's also inspired by Margiela / Ann. D/ Lang for sure.

It's not ugly, it's not interesting. I don't get any emotions. It feels like drinking a glass of water : you're not thirsty anymore but you don't taste any flavor or gives you emotions. Give us us champagne or green tea, Peter.

MEH.

 

[Lola701]

I guess this is a good collection. It checks all the boxes of supposed good taste, with the same obvious references we have had for the past decade and the elements of supposed transgression done over and over again.
I see clothes but I don’t see a voice, a distinctive POV. Everybody will forget about this by the time we get to MFW.

I kinda like the white long skirt. Very Gucci FW98. The Ann Demeulemeester references are very obvious but without the poetry.

I think that Peter Do can be great if he decides to not be hostage if his references. He needs to allow himself to have some sparkle of creativity…Even if it’s bad taste. We don’t need another Proenza Schouler.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ NYFW in this era is so synonymous with 1st-year sloppy non-talents showcases all on grants— or Tommy Hilfiger Incorporated, that someone like him, and even Proenza, (at this point) are good enough. American designers, even the Greats, have always been “inspired” by greater non-American talents. So never mind the obvious greater design and styling influences here, at least the garments look well-tailored and fit the wearer in a most flattering light. In this lesser era, designers really really really need to learn and master the craft of construction and tailoring before doing your own thing/you be you that’s so destructively encouraged at the sake of solid, traditional tailoring. (…Same with any creatives: Photographers need to learn the technical aspects of lighting and composition; ADs need to learn about the principles of graphic design and layout; stylist need to learn about art and fashion history rather than clubbing etc etc.)

The weakest link in his showcase is actually the details that, revealingly enough, seems desperate faSHON-baiting: The metallic eyebrows, the clunky cheapening footwear etc that’s better off displayed at Hot Topic. They all cheapen what he’s solidly build from all the greater influences. Trashing those touches would improve his show and brand, by leagues.

 

[jeanclaude]

He now has the fame...so he just rested on his laurels.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I do not get the hype.

Looks like a Parsons student thesis to me.

I find it hard to believe that he ever worked for Phoebe.

 

[depordetioz]

Too sterile, it really was so much more effective when he did lookbooks

 

[RaisinBoy]

oh no. this is Ann demuelmeeter+Helmut Lang (not even Helmut Lang, but the colovos years sadness)

 

[LadyJunon]

According to Vogue Runway, he's switching his sizing system from numbers to "S, M, L, XL, ..." to accommodate men's bodies. I have a feeling that this could go horribly wrong considering the precision his clothes require.

 

[LadyJunon]

According to Vogue Runway, he's switching his sizing system from numbers to "S, M, L, XL, ..." to accommodate men's bodies. I have a feeling that this could go horribly wrong considering the precision his clothes require.

Also Ralph Rucci was at the show.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

According to Vogue Runway, he's switching his sizing system from numbers to "S, M, L, XL, ..." to accommodate men's bodies. I have a feeling that this could go horribly wrong considering the precision his clothes require.

That's an odd change to make. Especially with pants, because a numbering system is actually way more helpful than a plain S, M, L, XL and whatnot. A 32 waist is generally a 32 waist, a small however is either 24 to a 30 depending on the cut and so adding extra adjustability options will make the clothes only look good on model bodies and not great in reality.

Designers, and fashion as a whole, need to find value in niches and not in catering to everything and the kitchen sink. Otherwise all the collections will end up looking the same between designers and seasonally.

 

[jeanclaude]

Designers, and fashion as a whole, need to find value in niches and not in catering to everything and the kitchen sink. Otherwise all the collections will end up looking the same between designers and seasonally.

AMEN! That´s what I call "the fast-fashion virus", which has infected the whole industry.

 

[Machinegumm]

Sadly, the only collection I like so far.