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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by TheoG, Mar 4, 2018.
Debut collection by Yiqing Yin and Anne Chapelle for Poiret
Haider called and he wants his designs back.
The clothes look better than at Vionnet and Schiaparelli relaunches...but really, there´s very little here that makes you think about Poiret (like the tamed volumes making reference to 1920s opera coats).
The most Poiret thing here is the tag sewn inside each garment. This could be from any other brand.
It might not substantially emulate classic Poiret, I'm still very much enjoying this. This collection is so very well put together for a debut collection and just like Sies Marjan, Junya, Haider etc, really feels as a lovely counterpoint towards everything either Demna infused or Guccified presented this season. I'm loving the Asian wrapping styles. Looking forward to seeing what these two will do next.
The ideas are there, just the execution and tailoring seems very sloppy. Granted, I'm sure they can't afford the best of the best, but don't pick fabrics that show every pucker and wrinkle.
he was all i could thinnk of when i scrolled through. its beautiful, but the draping and color palette feels too familiar
What a great debut collection. The use of colour is fantastic here as well as the lovely draping. I'm definitely keen to see more of her work in the future.
Yin is a good designer and this is a good debut, lovely shapes and easy to wear for all types of bodies, also love the pop of irisdescent yellow.
I also think it's a very solid debut that makes sense not only from an editorial perspective, but that has a lot of good clothes that can work for a diversity of women. The coat in look 5, the gold jumpsuit with long cuffed sleeves as well as the long gown at the end that seems to be made from a fabric that has metal yarn in it are absolute stunners...!!
I can see similarities not only to Haider Ackermann's work (more in the choice of fabrics and colors than the actual construction of the clothes) but also Zero + Maria Cornejo or Alber Elbaz' draping at Lanvin - none of which are too overt in my eyes, as this is also what I expect a modern day Poiret to look like.
^ I agree, this was reminiscent of Lanvin to me as well. I see potential here, and agree with vetements' and tricot's observations about working on a variety of body types. It's nice to see something new intended for women. One to watch ...
Some of his historic prints are being made again, I think by Schumacher?? It would be nice to see them use some of his actual fabrics. They are gorgeous, and some of them look like they could've been designed yesterday.
One thing I have to say in her defense (and partially to the similarities drawn to Haider Ackermann) is that her draping results for the most part in flattering and effortlessly wearable clothes. This is the kind of thing Haider Ackermann should be doing by now with his womenswear collection to turn the interest he's enjoyed some years ago into a breakthrough success.