Post-Antwerp Six: New Belgium Fashion

[Scott]

wow,i had completely forgotten about this thread.....

truth be told,we really haven't see too much on the belgian front since that second and third generation of grads,particularly those who graduated post-2000-01....peter pilotto might be the only real exception. but many that were once active have struggled to keep their businesses open due to financial constraints and others have gone on to work with other companies.

i think right now of current crop of talent from antwerp,there's glenn martens whose work is often reminiscent of that late-90's branquinho/simons youth-driven monastically dark movement.....and then there's lena lumelsky who's work is sort of darkly but ladylike and tailored....in a more van saene/persoons manner.

http://lenalumelsky.com/?cpo_portfolio=aw-1314-horror-vacui

 

[Psylocke]

Oh, I hadn't heard about Lena Lumelsky before. Instant fashion crush, her collections are awesome and the website is fun! ink: And it seems like she has evolved a lot since her first few collections. Very cool.
I haven't really been impressed with Glenn Martens yet, his style is a little too quirky for my liking, though I do see what you mean about his work being more reminiscent of the late 90's Belgian stuff.

I also forgot about Anthony Vaccarello I never look at him as one of the Belgians, though I did like his first collections and thought they had that typically Belgian touch but with an infusion of some more obvious sexiness/sluttiness. Now it's just sl*tty dresses and not really much else, IMHO.

I think you might be right that many of the more recent Royal Academy grads went on to work with/for other designers and that not many have been able to afford starting their own labels, which is a shame.