Prada F/W 05.06 Milan

[kimair]

wow...can't believe how much i like this...i'm glad to see miuccia has moved beyond the robots and the feathers.

love the suits and the frog closures on the coats...

 

[AlexN]

i think that the collection has too dark colours but is romantic.

That's a big part of what I like about it. I'm taken with the color pallette in the first photo posted.

 

[mikeijames]

this reminds me of the 90s prada i didn't understand nor like. but i commend her for going back to her fundamentals and reintroducing us to those things that are truly trademark prada. while the past few seasons (fall '03/spring '04/fall '04) have been fun to see that she can absolutely set and adhere to trend, i'm glad that she's going back to her roots and creating those enigmatic yet quiet pieces that shot her to success all those years ago.

 

[Alejandro]

I love this

 

[marrimoda]

I love the texture on the coats and jackets. the bags do nothing for me, but the coats -- love em!
I also prefer to see a designers approach evolve, and continue where another season left off. Its less erratic than say...Marc Jacobs. I want a designer to stand by their concepts...especially if Im going to invest in it.

 

[sec]

According to IHT:
Miuccia Prada's comment on her collection...
"It is deeply human,"Prada said. "It is less frilly, more sensual, not romantic, no fur, no embroidery except a few tough things. And I am satisfied for once with my work."

 

[arlekindearrabal]

I know! How wild and ridiculous! Maybe next season we'll actually see a BLACK model at Prada!

hahaha, hopefully!

 

[Lena]

no, grommets are the little metal "holes"

and they are totally 'inspired' by what E2 showed two seasons ago..
i need to see this in detail when i have some time

thanks for the topic m.o.m

 

[Spike413]

Wow, I really, really liked the whole collection. So much cleaner and no-nonsense then the last few. Some great pices and details.

 

[saturnine]

I can't say I've ever liked Prada, but you can always rely on a new and fresh and innovative collection.

 

[bikkle]

i usually hate frog closures, but this is used really effectively...

 

[Johnny]

I think it's really beautiful, one of the nicest collections for women I've seen in years. I'ts interesting that she's said she's happy with it. It does seem natural, unforced, unfussy.

 

[helena]

agree Johnny - tis lovely. i looked at the whole collection on vogue this morning - bootiful.

 

[Acid]

ive never really understood the crazed obsession some people have with prada. a lot of these clothes look like they need a good pressing IMO, they look/the fabrics look awfully crumpled, unless thats the aim

 

[Lena]

obviously.. i agree with acid, looks like this last coat posted could do with some more skilled sewing ..much more at the price one has to pay to buy this coat..

 

[Lena]

here from wwd of today:

Prada: No one throws down the fashion gauntlet like Miuccia Prada. In her show on Monday, she thrust it and then stomped on it with her first look out: a black slip dress as austere as could be, save for the smallest edge of lace at the hem. An unequivocal return to minimalism from the woman who spearheaded the embellishment madness of the last several years.

Or was it? After the show, Prada said she wanted to “go back to more simple clothes,” with fewer frills and sans that now-familiar aura of romantic escapism. In fact, her shift toward the sturdy began for spring, and here she wanted something even “more serious, more deep, more human, more strong.” And darker, literally and figuratively; hence her reembrace of black, and apparent alignment with New York’s sober faction, specifically Marc Jacobs, who went Gorey-esque to great fanfare, and Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley, who took a frillier approach.

Unlike those two, however, Prada at first appeared to flaunt stark minimalism. After the slipdress came a sculpted black dress and suit, dressmaker seaming their only decoration. She moved from black to camel and back with the same restraint, until in crept a glimmer of deco, quietly spectacular — a yoke of jet beading on a fitted black coat. This led the way to increasing embellishment of the fashion oxymoron kind, low-key yet obvious. Where once Prada might have chosen crystals or a dance of mirrors, she now inserted countless grommets into a coat. In place of formerly delicate embroideries she opted for heavy passementerie trim. This went two ways: fabulous in black on dark colors; art-school awkward in high-contrast combos, especially those doily-decorated, droopy-boob variations. Not so the garment-dyed pieces, stark white bursting forth from beneath collars and inside pleats in a brilliant expression of graceful reserve. Throughout, Prada steadfastly avoided fluff. As close as it came for day was with retro-looking bags, some emblazoned with the house logo, and a series of breathtaking dark printed coats in intriguing moody colors — girly with a dash of woe. At night, however, Miss Woebegone lightened up in the high-impact dazzle of a jewel-encrusted chemise.

Give or take a patchwork leather or two, Prada offered a wealth of gorgeous clothes. It’s a lineup that should give her stores a decidedly fresh look come fall. Despite the inventive bravura of the spring collection, retail is looking a little tchotchkied-up, all that robot gadgetry in serious cohabitation with peacock feathers. Which makes this collection difficult to review: beautiful clothes, seemingly more salable than the most extreme renderings of spring’s aviary theatrics. And beautiful, wearable clothes are what fashion is about. Except that, at Prada, it’s also about the bold, visionary thesis. One had the feeling that Prada longed to make such a definitive argument for fall, but then hedged, due, perhaps, to pragmatism or uncertainty. And that’s not something that happens often.

 

[Mr-Dale]

After seeing it all at www.style.com I must say that I quite like it. The details on some of the coats are exquisite. But I read in the style.com review that Miuccia stated that it is a return to sort of minimalism, but that is must not be dark-mooded at all times! But I think that some of the stuff is very darkmooded actually and a bit sad. But I think that is due to making looks completely black. Look at a piece singlely and it is not dark or sad at all...

 

[stillhere]

Looking fine and wearable - though nothing ground-breaking "just" very Prada-ly striking

 

[PinkSunrise]

I love this. cant wait to see more

 

[amchan]

it is sad to hear she said:"To go back to something structured, strong and womanly, to strip back the ""stupid"" frills, print and decoration", while her current summer collection is full of frills, print and decoration...is the word "stupid" too strong?