There are glimmers of hope here, but it's all still bogged down by too much muchness.
The first couple of looks, as others have mentioned - including in the Vogue review, are smart and appealing because of the simplicity and streamlined, classic look of them. Just enough odd factor, but realistic looking - which is something Prada hasn't captured in a long time. Interesting, compelling realistic propositions of what one could wear.
There are strong looks throughout, actually...but it really could have been scrubbed cleaner a bit. I would have dumped all the metallic brocade (the suede, fine gauge knits and georgette are really good looking materials all together), I would have dumped all the pie crust ruffles (so sick of ruffles), and I would have DEFINITELY dumped those HEINOUS graphic Prada logos they are pushing so hard. In fact, not only would I dump the logos, I would dump whoever it is on the internal design team who is coming up with those crimes against fashion immediately.
And, actually, for the first time since the failed Inside Bag (unfortunately...loved that bag), I really like the bags this season from Prada. They're really good looking and chic and not too tricky looking.
Last thing...can someone explain why Julia Nobis is still popping up? When you say you're going to retire but then you keep popping up all the time...it's kind of annoying, tbh. Either retire or don't. LOL.