Prada S/S 06 Milan

[softgrey]

i lilke the stronger, darker edge...
i really like all the black straps on the pale pale dresses...
gives them some 'weight' and balances the 'frilliness'...imo...



**but this is SCREAMING cdg f/w 05 to me...

 

[arlekindearrabal]

i can see that now, softgrey...

who leads who?

 

[kinkexplosion]

^eeerrmm... i dont think so.... uh uh...

 

[softgrey]

i can see that now, softgrey...

who leads who?

well...if i had to say...
i'd say rei kawakubo leads the pack and that marc jacobs is dead last...

 

[CharlottefromCA]

The collection is up on style.com now..
-------------------------------------------------------------
MILAN, September 27, 2005 – "I wanted to go forward by trying to cancel out nostalgia. By canceling out the body," said Miuccia Prada. She opened her search for new proportions with a big, loose, odd-looking overshirt, pulled over thick gray stockings. It wasn't exactly a shock, in the way Prada can sometimes be, but the impact of this show, with its strange whitewashed textures and oddly chosen combinations of gigantic platforms, high-heel gladiator boots, bamboo-sole wedges, and big shiny crocodile status bags, was hard to call. Was it fresh, plain, and girlish, or layered with high-tech innovations and original thought? Well, all of the above, naturally. Throwing people off the easy explanation is what Mrs. Prada does.


Clean-skinned girls, neatly ponytailed and cyclamen-lipped, some of them with shiny patent eyeshades, opened the show wheeling stacks of luggage—the baggage of the Prada family heritage. The clothes—mainly dresses that fit loosely, denying the waist—seemed like velvet at first glance, but proved to be made of a kind of overprinted linen. A sequence of deflated puffed sleeves, outcrops of kilt pleats, and floppy falling-down shoulder lines looked borrowed from school uniforms, but without their requisite cuteness. If Mrs. Prada has an impulse to stride toward the future, though, she knows she can't go there without taking along the much-loved souvenirs of the past. Her plain lawn dresses incorporated the cutwork details of finely crafted tablecloths found in old Italian specialist shops. And for evening, she reverted to type, using minute wooden beads and strips of antiqued diamanté as decoration. All that looked simply lovely. Which leaves the explanations to another day.

– Sarah Mower

 

[Lena]

"I wanted to go forward by trying to cancel out nostalgia. By canceling out the body," said Miuccia Prada

i seriously can't see how she's canceling out nostalgia when introducing such a nostalgic and heavily vintage inspired collection..
i still need to see this in details but i'm afraid that for me it falls in the same category as her fw05.06 collection.. which is, not terribly interesting
her style seems too close to the new ss06 Ferretti collection, which might come as an improvement for Ferretti but it is a let down from Prada

setting my hopes on miumiu ...

thanks for the style.com article charlotte

 

[kiddokiddo]

I actually quite like it... I can't tell why though, but the clothes evoke a certain charming quality and quirky, offbeat feeling to me personally...There r a few misses but overall, it's quite a lovely collection

 

[Johnny]

This is a really beautiful collection, very sophisticated. I think she captures "awkwardness" very well, and I think that's really why her clothes appeal, since we're all a alittle awkward sometimes and we therefore empathise.

I agree with sg about the comme influence - in fact it was my first comment to myself when I saw the intitial pictures here.

 

[JuiceMajor]

I kinda like it after seeing the entire collection. It's kinda girly but with a nasty edge. Some garment feels like workwear. Not too sure about the bamboo wedge. Feels a little 'trying too hard'.



(style.com)

 

[Pastry]

Yes Pastry, I saw your example, but even though Miuccia has used the high waited shorts/bra combo once or twice before it's not what people think of when they think Prada, beige is too general a thing to say it's a designer's signature, and the visors/weird accessories seem a lot like what Miuccia was doing from f/w 03-f/w 05...

And my comments were really about the whole mood of this collection, light, frilly, girly.....none of those are words I would use to describe Prada.

Many words (and girly is one of them) can be used to describe Prada! In a brand so revolutionary (sometimes, we don't know why) everything turns up. Everything.

Besides, the mood might have been feminine, bur so was the previous collection. Miuccia Prada has been pushing femininity, but variations of it of course.

I think the Prada collections have been increasingly innovative since Fall 2004. The people who complained that these are "just clothes", no longer can!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think the Prada collections have been increasingly innovative since Fall 2004. The people who complained that these are "just clothes", no longer can!

Sorry, what else are these, other than clothes? Prada is such a major player, I really don´t see it´s ever been subversive or anyhow revolutionary. It´s just as if you´d name her in the same breath as people like Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto or whoever pushed the boundaries of fashion... she didn´t really push something forward in my eyes...

 

[Pastry]

I'm not talking about that kind of revolution. What Rei Kawakubo does is immensy different from Prada's philosophy. There is no deconstructivism in Miuccia's book.

She takes everyday clothes and makes them luxurious and desirbale every season. I can relate to that more.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I was not speaking of a same sense of design, á la deconstruction... thank god she didn´t jump on this train too! I was just trying to explain that what Prada does is not really pushing fashion as we regard it forward... that´s because you said "The people who complained that these are "just clothes", no longer can". No doubt, there are ocassionally pieces that are lovely and nicely designed, but it´s not more and not less than "just nice clothes".

 

[Meg]

What a lovely lovely collection. Love the 30's influences and the dark straps, like softie. And those skinny slouchy stockings, so beautiful and evocative. Agree johnny about the awkwardness. Thats such a good way of putting it

 

[fashionista-ta]

It's funny how even with the light colours, with the lightness overall, the looks still come across so strongly. There's steel underneath, something unavoidable, whether its the way they hold the bags, how the romance of fabric slipping from shoulders is shut down by two hard straps that won't give you a free peak...and the boots...are those hunting boots? She continues to fuse lots of different ideas about luxury, wearing luxurious things in a very non chalant way, whether by design or construction and certainly seems to be revisiting her work in the 90s, a minimalism that isn't minimalist. These looks will be pulled apart though my heart yearns for a woman who would not only wear it head to toe but would perhaps have the secrets and the experiences to go with such mystery.

Beautiful commentary ... I agree with the steel, and I like the black straps too. Perhaps no one but Miuccia should really wear Prada head to toe though?

I was taken aback by her comments regarding canceling out the body, and the collection being "nasty in the end" ...

 

[fashionista-ta]

well...if i had to say...
i'd say rei kawakubo leads the pack and that marc jacobs is dead last...

 

[faust]

dont forget that Prada shows very few of their actuall 'hot pieces' on the runway, they use the runway as a mislead for their copiers

In that case shouldn't every other designer hide their key looks before Prada sees them?

 

[faust]

well...if i had to say...
i'd say rei kawakubo leads the pack and that marc jacobs is dead last...

LMAO

 

[softgrey]

...

they are all on the same path...
they can smell it in the air...
we all can , can't we?...

something is definitely 'up' with the past few seasons...
there is a revolution happening in fashion...
it's a quiet one...
but a great many of the big players have changed...

gucci is gone...
versace has 'faded away'...
that overt sexuality has as well...
and androgyny and modesty is moving forward...

the 'ones to watch'...have become the ones to follow...
and even miuccia is following along...
all that 'antique diamante'...
come on...who is known for that???...

it's all bits and pieces from collections we've seen somewhere already...
i even see the ferretti influence...
i have a ferretti dress that has the same shape and black straps...
which is obviously why i said i like it..
i already OWN IT......
...

**so it seems to me...
she took a ferretti dress pattern...
used some leftover cdg fabric...
and applied some diamantes from lanvin...

and that's what we call PRADA...

 

[faust]

/\ Exactly. See my comment two posts up.

I immediately thought Ferretti with Boudicca visers.