Proenza Schouler F/W 2022.23 New York

[deango]

 

[helmutnotdead]

congrats guys! you discovered Loewe!

 

[helmutnotdead]

Phoebe Philo archive was found dead.

 

[dior_couture1245]

20 years in the business? Daaaaang. And not an identity to speak of. Incredible.

 

[THD96]

The collection is a mixture their typical Céline-esque, what's new ( I guessed) for them is those Loewe-lite. Is this a beginning of a new obsession?

They first started with Nicolas Balenciaga the Phoebe's Céline and now to celebrated their 20 years anniversary, they decided to go for Loewe lite. Sorry guys, Ms. Burch is already a few season ahead of ya.

20 years in and what is exactly their legacy? what do they want their brand to be remember?

 

[kikifoz]

Proenza boys: "We're sick of sneakers"

Look 24's rubber soled flats: "I'm not a sneaker"

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Are we really going to continue to do this? Every time we see an earth tone, minimal piece must we shout “PHILO DID IT FIRST”. I mean, come on, it is getting a bit tiresome at this point.

As @THD96 already said, they have no legacy and will go down as an overly hyped American sportswear label for having provided no innovation or real excitement.

Who is this woman? What customer wants this? It has been seen before and is ultimately uninteresting.

I can already hear the American Vogue editors gushing over these pieces. “Minimalism is back!” “They did it again!!!” “Phenomenal”.

“Hernandez and McCollough gave their tailoring the same waisted look by accessorizing suits with torso-spanning body shapers, or by cutting jackets and coats to wrap across the midriff and button off to the side, the cloth equivalent of a firm hug.”

^^^ Really Nicole… “The cloth equivalent of a firm hug”….? (Source: Vogue.com)

 

[Bugsy]

This collection is just blah. Nothing special about the clothes at all. The colors are soo drab.

 

[dior_couture1245]

You know, it’s almost baffling how much they have completely hawked the Phoebe Celine aesthetic, particular that of her last 2 years at the house. Incredible, really. I can’t even imagine the mindset of being a designer so comfortable and obvious about who they’re copying. It’s like they’re shameless about it! Crazy!

But I also feel kind of bad for them. They’re just so uncool. They want so badly to be serious and intellectual, but it’s been at the expense of hollowing out whatever was inside of them…they’re absolute shells who can only muster up these imitations. Very sad.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

It’s one thing to be inspired by a mood, what’s going on in the moment. The problem with those guys is that you can literally recognize which looks were copied from which collections. Of course they always tries to trick us with the colors but it’s just too much!

They think that maybe by copying Loewe FW 2016 and SS 2017 with Celine FW 2017 in 2022, nobody will catch the references?

I’m admirative of the fact that they are still in business after 20 years but I don’t get why they are still trying so hard and chasing an aesthetic that is so not natural for them. Stick to American sportswear guys!

The brown and black + the red dress are great tho.

 

[perhydrol]

20 years in the business and Parasite Schouler still haven't developed their own voice. How is it even possible to survive this long with nothing to say? This collection looks like a bunch of sad Loewe leftovers so I won't even comment on it, but it's amazing how they can still operate without any kind of hype and with no aesthetic of their own.

 

[Norden]

There’s some nice color blocking going on with the black and beige tones. I also think some of the proportions proposed work, the the wide shoulder with the wide pant.

but it’s nothing new. I will always repeat, it’s too close to old Celine, down to the styling and setting. Of all Celine copycats (still after all these years) they’re the most on the nose. And frankly I think it’s unacceptable. 20 years in business and this is what you can muster.

I also question who this is for, what’s lacking is some kind of foundation and identity in finishes and fabrication. You could never tell a ps garment on a mixed rack if you didn’t see the label. They’d do good to step up their game, this is too lazy and too surface and after 20 years of doing this they aught to be better.

 

[90sFan]

This looks like clothes at Zara windows in the middle of the Phoebe Philo Celine years. Back then the rip-off was hilarious. Now it's just tragic.

 

[tatouejeremie]

they do have a good eye for proportion, the colours are nice and they sometimes do have design elements that aren't completely derivative, why not just focus on that? why does everything need to be drenched in this thick celine jus

 

[Ruito]

Call it Céline-esque but I thought this was a great collection.

 

[liberty33r1b]

looks rubbish too if you copy at least give it some effort

 

[Br3ncon1]

Definitely channeling Phoebe Philo era Céline. But to be fair, they have been filling the needs of oldCéline customers as their RTW sells very very well.

 

[jeanclaude]

Victoria Beckham ordering the whole collection in 3,2,1...

 

[Lola701]

Definitely channeling Phoebe Philo era Céline. But to be fair, they have been filling the needs of oldCéline customers as their RTW sells very very well.

It does? In the US I guess…
They have very little to no presence outside of that market.

But they must have fans too who follows them no matter what.