Proenza Schouler S/S 2019 New York

Balenciaga by Ghesquiere S/S 2006, Celine by Philo S/S 2018 a mix of various seasons of Vetements...
Tragic!
Worst collection so far and maybe the most embarrassing thing is that after all these years, it's still impossible to define this brand, it aesthetic and what it woman is supposed to represent.
This is terrible! Cool is a very tricky word to be associated with...Because at one point, there's a shift. Of course today, Proenza Schouler like Rodarte or even Alexander Wang (but IMO he is far above the two others) are not in the barometer of cool anymore.

Between this and the Parisian debacle they experienced, there's nothing to save. I'm tired of this pretentious fashion...
It's not an insult to design beautiful simple clothes because obviously, they can't design beautiful complicated clothes.

But congratulations are in order for them. To be able to maintain their brand for so long without any actual identiy is an achievement.
 
Balenciaga by Ghesquiere S/S 2006, Celine by Philo S/S 2018 a mix of various seasons of Vetements...
Tragic!
Worst collection so far and maybe the most embarrassing thing is that after all these years, it's still impossible to define this brand, it aesthetic and what it woman is supposed to represent.
This is terrible! Cool is a very tricky word to be associated with...Because at one point, there's a shift. Of course today, Proenza Schouler like Rodarte or even Alexander Wang (but IMO he is far above the two others) are not in the barometer of cool anymore.

Between this and the Parisian debacle they experienced, there's nothing to save. I'm tired of this pretentious fashion...
It's not an insult to design beautiful simple clothes because obviously, they can't design beautiful complicated clothes.

But congratulations are in order for them. To be able to maintain their brand for so long without any actual identiy is an achievement.

Looks more simple now to me

More Raf Calvin too
 
This collection is such a mess. But glad to see Gemma there.
 
Wow! They have lost their identity a bit. I don't like to call out "copy" anymore but those fusion shirts are blatant copies of Raf and Margela.
Where's the sexy?
 
Embarrassing. Good luck selling those clothes, because not even Vetements is selling this oversized sh!t anymore.
 
Not only is it a poor attempt at fusion--Chitose Abe they ain't--the color palette is also too drab. In the past, despite their annoying pseudo-intellectualism, at least they could make up for it with interesting usage of colors, prints, and textures. I read somewhere that they wanted to reinvigorate humbler materials in this collection. But humbler doesn't mean duller.
 
I liked these two when they were the laid back, sexier, younger sister of Ghesquiere's Balenciaga, along with Rodarte (which was more precious and craftier) it really represented an aesthetic. This, on the other hand, is on the same level as J.W. Anderson's first few shows in its absurdity, pretentiousness and poor fit, absolutely nothing looks desirable, oh to go back to their japanese F/W 12, simpler times....(feels like a decade ago). With Wang having erradicated his own coolness in just a few seasons, Rodarte doing peagant dresses, it seems like the NY new guard is finally over.

I only like the look on Sasha despite the suspicious similarities with a Loewe dress from a few seasons ago, maybeee Meghan's if I'm being generous. I normally like tunics over knee length skirts but the fabrics are so very ironic and tacky I cannot help but hate them, the shoes alone will be enough to give me PTSD till the fashion month's over, never seen a more distracting shoe, it makes it look like the models are wearing the lower half of a romper. The bell dresses remind me more of Sacai than Balenciaga, especially so with the hankerchiefs, the one on Binx is a bit Prada S/S 06 with the faded denim.
 
NEXT! they use to be the front of the pack and now they are becoming a diet version of trendy ones.
 
I think they embody perfectly how much this NYFW is a mess : try hard, a bunch of clothes that no one wants, no identity.
 
This is a mess and even being supposedly "edgy" cannot justify such a collection. Looking at the more "simple" pieces, some are good but as PS does not mean cool anymore I won't see how they will justify wide pants priced $400 and more now. Next step is closure or repositionning in lower premium market.
Surprised they got a good cast though.
 
They used to have their hands on the pulse of what was cool, but it's definitely slipped in recent years and as others have stated they lack any identity these days.
 
agree with the rest, they used to be absolutely amazing i loved their old stuff when they did amazing things with colour and fabrics ! wish they would go back to it.
 
They should never had left NY. Now, after the PFW failure, they look so much less relevant. I used to see in these boys a lot of potencial, but now... Its gonna be hard to go thru this now. Good luck is all I can say.
 

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