Raf Simons S/S 2021 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[helmutnotdead]

I didn’t know if I was looking at some indie/cheap horror movie from the 70’s or a fashion show.
Literally scary.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Reminds me of 'the big bang theory'

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOOOL

I wish you could say that to his face and witness the meltdown/tantrum since I’m sure he’s got some insufferable, postmodern concept about another lost Berlin youthquake revolution to drone on about.

 

[TianCouture]

wow thats a lot of v hard nipples.

 

[TianCouture]

children of the disillusionment more like it.

 

[Turnip Rutabaga]

Well, the whole collection is one big purple Question Everything badge...

 

[Yasouss]

It's just simply not flattering. The concept could be inspired by the Gods, but when it doesn't even flow or look well on the models, it won't really look well on the customers.

 

[bc collector]

It's interesting to see Raf's latest work in comparison to Hedi's for Celine. They were always considered to be antagonist to each other, whether they meant so or not, but lately they actually seem to be treading the same dead waters, creatively speaking.
I guess the problem is that there is just so much time in life when you can really be in tune with the cravings and moods of youth, and that time is certainly not middle age.
Both are trying to rekindle the energy of their earliest work but the results are - may I say it- formulaic when not verging on the pathetic.
I also question Raf's urgency to start a RS womenswear collection now that he should only focus on Prada and, in general, at a time when he can't even manage to stay relevant in menswear.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I feel like the clothes from his Fred Perry collaboration look more designed than this. Does anybody even care at this point about his RTW line? People keep bashing Hedi but at least there is nice tailoring and thoroughly researched construction and fabrication to his Celine clothes - I can't help but think there is really no fundament to anything in this collection - Everything looks so cheap and the womenswear is really nothing - Why even bother to do it if you don't plan on putting any design into it?

Anyway, I have come to the conclusion his own line only serves as a platform to sell entry priced shoes and bags collaborations.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's interesting to see Raf's latest work in comparison to Hedi's for Celine. They were always considered to be antagonist to each other, whether they meant so or not, but lately they actually seem to be treading the same dead waters, creatively speaking.
I guess the problem is that there is just so much time in life when you can really be in tune with the cravings and moods of youth, and that time is certainly not middle age.
Both are trying to rekindle the energy of their earliest work but the results are - may I say it- formulaic when not verging on the pathetic.
I also question Raf's urgency to start a RS womenswear collection now that he should only focus on Prada and, in general, at a time when he can't even manage to stay relevant in menswear.

Yes but the point is that with Hedi, you can still find a good and timeless wardrobe essential in his Celine collections, no matter how it looks on the runway- a nicely proportioned, slightly 80ies-looking suit, a pair of boots you can keep for the next 10 years and so on. Those are pieces that can work at any age, whereas the clothes from Raf Simons' line only do for young street style customers - When you're older you really should not be caught wearing clothes made from cheap fabrics and construction like this (that you bought at a ridiculously high price)!

 

[jeanclaude]

Another teen patch "rebellion" fest from a middle-aged man, with a serious Peter Pan complex.

This is as cutting-edge, fresh and rebel as buying a "Ramones" t-shirt at H&M (and not having the faintest idea about who they were, to make it worse).

Dear Raf: you are not longer young. You will never be young again. Just face it!!

 

[Lola701]

It’s a weird feeling to expect something bad and to have something that meets your expectations...

I remember, when Hedi started at YSL, I was beyond disappointed. For 5 years, I had people talking about how much of a genius and revolutionary and visionary he was and suddenly, there was YSL ss 2013.

Raf Simons...is maybe the biggest disappointment of the past 20 years. The promise was insane, we had a beginning of fireworks at Jil Sander and for the past 7 years, it has been a confusing disappointment.

It must feel weird but at this point, I don’t know who he is as a designer. This just doesn’t make sense. His Calvin wasn’t right for Calvin but was actually good for him..

His own line looks like a hypebeasts/industry bubble. Nobody needed that.

The set is good tho.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I only liked the satin skirts and some of the psychodelic print pieces, the rest was just the weed and patchouli smelling cousin of his Prada debut. I guess he's counting on making cash with the re-release of his archive and didn't bother much with this one.

As expected he didn't find a way to make his ideas flattering for the female form, they're the exact same cuts as the mens...and just as uninspired. At least the video was sort of nice, film-student-ey but nice.

Is the awful dye job on that one model another homage to Christiane F.?

P.S: If I had to choose Hedi at least makes good, easy separates, better go safe than sorry.

 

[bc collector]

The promise was insane, we had a beginning of fireworks at Jil Sander and for the past 7 years, it has been a confusing disappointment.

I agree with the above but I don't think Raf's Dior was all to throw away, unlike his Calvin.

When he was at Dior at least he tried to do something modern and new, with mixed results, probably because Dior's clientele does not have much of a taste for modernist fashion. I mean, it wasn't just endless, pure, cynical product-churning, like Hedi's SL.

Yes but the point is that with Hedi, you can still find a good and timeless wardrobe essential in his Celine collections, no matter how it looks on the runway

I was not questioning Hedi's ability as a product designer, which is unquestionable, but the fact remains that his (like Raf's) aesthetic feels stale.

 

[Ed..]

Some of the silhouettes look unflattering, but I must say the fabric/material used looks really good. I like this collection because of it.

 

[Cory333]

Smells of trying so hard...can’t really explain why I dislike it so much.

 

[Lola701]

I agree with the above but I don't think Raf's Dior was all to throw away, unlike his Calvin.

When he was at Dior at least he tried to do something modern and new, with mixed results, probably because Dior's clientele does not have much of a taste for modernist fashion. I mean, it wasn't just endless, pure, cynical product-churning, like Hedi's SL.

His HC FW2013 is still one of the worst collection I’ve seen in my life. And what made it worse was that all the most skilled ressources in fashion worked on that.

Except for maybe 3/4 collections, I did not like his Dior. He treated Dior like a design project and not with the eye of a designer.

The issue wasn’t the Dior clientele. It was all a posture.

One thing about Hedi, he is not cynical in his approach to fashion. The problem maybe is that he has a very « terre-à-terre » idea of fashion. His vision of fashion is maybe an elevated vision of everyday clothes. Hedi designs the clothes he loves. It’s a creative endavior but there’s no creative research in his approach to fashion. The desire to create new codes is something he maybe had in the 90’s and when he did Dior Homme. But now, he has the most basic approach to fashion.