Riccardo Tisci - Designer

[Kanzai]

Unfortunate of what Kanye’s become, but he really was that musical and even cultural pioneer of a time that was so unabashedly a stan of high fashion— and that included its gay creatives. And frankly, Kanye was, and would likely be, a much better talent as a CD and designer than many now installed at the majority of once great labels. (…Not sure if his hissyfits and tantrums were always prevalent, but he really was a part of something in fashion that was shiny and new at the time. Unfortunately, people devolve for the worst; just take a gander at currentday Candace Owens…)

'My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy' feels like a once-in-a-lifetime work, honestly more deserving of praise than even the best of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Kanye is honestly kind of pathetic and embarrassing at this point, but his work in fashion really makes a lot of so-called purist designers today look like they should be questioning whether they were even trained properly in the first place .

 

[Lola701]

'My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy' feels like a once-in-a-lifetime work, honestly more deserving of praise than even the best of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Kanye is honestly kind of pathetic and embarrassing at this point, but his work in fashion really makes a lot of so-called purist designers today look like they should be questioning whether they were even trained properly in the first place .

Come on, his work in fashion is rather mediocre but I will always respect his influence which in a way made his contribution to fashion bigger than it was.

He was clever enough to hire the right people.

I will always give him this: he has a taste and an eye. He really had a genuine love for fashion.
I will always remember around 2005/2006/2007 when he used to come to Paris, to visit studios alone. He was a great guy, curious and a fantastic customer. Then when his then fiancée came along, they played the game unlike a lot of people. She had a lot of knowledge in fashion.

I must say that as someone who is black and who was already a lover of Hip-Hop, it was kind of refreshing to see a rapper/producer in those circles. Pharrell was going to Vuitton only and Lenny Kravitz was sometimes around with Janet but Kanye was different.

It’s a bit sad to see what he has become over the years and by the time he showed his first collection is was already checked out but he did changed the life of a lot of people that I know in the industry just by association.

I think the egomania really started when Riccardo became of one the kings of Paris. That friendship, what it created in the Parisian scene and the influence in fashion and culture in general just blew his head.

 

[FashioNarrating]

^Yeah, I wouldn't overstate Kanye's fashion sense either, he was an enthusiastic showgoer, but as soon as he made his runway debut with that DW collection in 2011, one could tell he was a celebrity wanting to play fashion designer. After two seasons of obsolete silhouettes and poor reviews, he likely realized high fashion requires more than a high budget/ego and decided to go more casual, which tied in conveniently with his connections to Tisci, Rousteing & Co and the Kardashian clan and with the overall rise of overhyped street-/athleisure wear in contemporary fashion at the time, which made his hoodies, leggings and slides sell like hot cakes, which then made him and his deluded fans believe he is the (fashion) Messiah of our time.

 

[HazJW]

'My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy' feels like a once-in-a-lifetime work, honestly more deserving of praise than even the best of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Kanye is honestly kind of pathetic and embarrassing at this point, but his work in fashion really makes a lot of so-called purist designers today look like they should be questioning whether they were even trained properly in the first place .

Look, it's a great album, but a work containing the line 'Yeezy reupholstered my p*ssy' is not 'more deserving of praise than the best of Cristóbal Balenciaga', please be for real.

 

[jeanclaude]

'My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy' feels like a once-in-a-lifetime work, honestly more deserving of praise than even the best of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Kanye is honestly kind of pathetic and embarrassing at this point, but his work in fashion really makes a lot of so-called purist designers today look like they should be questioning whether they were even trained properly in the first place .

Comparing Balenciaga with West is like comparing Möet Chandon with dirty water from a puddle.

 

[mepps]

Yeah, this thread derailed fast.

 

[brandon J pierre]

What is happening here

 

[Kanzai]

Balenciaga is the greatest designer who ever lived and Kanye is definitely not the greatest musician of all time (not even in his wildest dreams)
But the thing is the spiritual and emotional value of music still reaches way deeper and wider into humanity than even the greatest fashion from a fashion sage. No matter how much you worship Balenciaga, his work ultimately stays trapped in an ivory tower. One great album can live inside millions of people’s heads and hearts for decades. Fashion, for all its brilliance, almost never does that.

I'll end here

 

[jeanclaude]

Balenciaga is the greatest designer who ever lived and Kanye is definitely not the greatest musician of all time (not even in his wildest dreams)
But the thing is the spiritual and emotional value of music still reaches way deeper and wider into humanity than even the greatest fashion from a fashion sage. No matter how much you worship Balenciaga, his work ultimately stays trapped in an ivory tower. One great album can live inside millions of people’s heads and hearts for decades. Fashion, for all its brilliance, almost never does that.

I'll end here

Yes, music can reach more people and in a more deep way than clothes...but music from Kanye??? Of all the great musicians out there...Kanye, really????

 

[Lola701]

the big difference is demna is mocking (or in his mind reflecting current times) with a stereotype even that ginger model body is not the same muscle type build that Tisci used.
also big difference is context Tisci actually finds his models hot and sees them as a celebration of male beauty archetype´s not as social commentary.

Demna ´s ginger gym bro model (Gavin is his name) represents the current gym bro /incel manosphere /internet culture archetype, he is pale and not classically handsome,
While in same show he has the looks maxing version of gym bro /incel manosphere /internet culture archetype thats has good jaw line and is classically handsome in the all white look.
These are all deliberate details of his archetype mockery fashion castings.
Demna partner husband is emo skinny so privaly its not even his taste or beauty standard to be with such an archetype.

Tisci models where more of the 90´s male supermodels healthy athletic but more emphasis on latin and racially mixed ideals and confronting it with high fashion design.
these men where Tisci ideal and he even try to look more like them by getting into the gym etc and constantly partying in brazil and ibiza with these types.

the beauty and ideals projected are not the same thing, same as hedi skinny model versus a pilates princes body ideal just because they are both skinny does not mean they mean or represent the same things or lives style´s ideals.

we are talking about fashion here context matters , details matter allot.

Your comment actually made me realize that we don’t know much at all about Demna’s beauty ideals because his work is always so reactionary and shock-value fueled.

His representation of men or women has never felt or looked celebratory.

The same way that I see the way he dresses as a big trolling exercise because it feels like he dresses that way because he can and probably because there’s a satisfaction in dressing like that while navigating the environment he is in rather than a real expression of style.

And it’s weird, I have àlways found interesting that he chose to represent the kind of vulgar, sexy woman in the western side of Europe (La cagole, the sexy eurotrash ) but never that side that exist in the Eastern European context too in which is much more present in people mind than what he showed…

I will be so curious to see what his interior looks like!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ There was a fleeting glimpse of his true personal taste when he debuted at Balenciaga: Plush, lush knits and sportswear with even more plush, lush cocooning leathers mixed with that Eastern European mum prints for the dresses. It was rather authentically charming. And hIs personal preference in beauty seems to be that very icy cold blonde with the hair slicked back, with his type of men being… twink LOOL Then he was shamed for being too White, and that heinous cast of Skid Row headcount came to being, approved by social, and became teh signature for him. The way that he dresses is absolutely reactionary/irony/cosplay to the overdressed uniforms of many in the industry, but also comes off as a mockery-- intentional or unintentional. There was a snap of Riccardo from Scott Schulman’s site back in the day, where he wore a retro gas attendant’s shirt— complete with the name “Habib”on it. Gays in leading fashion roles really do love to cosplay as blue-collar workers.

Yes, music can reach more people and in a more deep way than clothes...but music from Kanye??? Of all the great musicians out there...Kanye, really????

Personal tastes and preferences, Jean Claude. I can’t suffer the plague of poptart bops that even the middle-aged gays seem to genuinely adore. Kanye's currentday behaviour makes it so easy to mock/dismiss/hate him and diminish all his talents— and that talent does include his eye for fashion designs, as far as I’m concerned: His talent for fashion designer may be mediocre— but still better than the handful of hilariously overhyped lessers pretending to be designers currently installed at the bluechip brands; all of whom BTW, can't even possess the talent to hire stronger talents around them-- even with corporate money. And his musical work wavers between musical revolution and musical genius. And if nothing else, his musical visionary run of the epic trilogy My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy/Watch The Throne/The Life Of Pablo is deserving of the creative respect in pop culture that cements his pop icon status. And because people hate him now, his music and especially his fashion designs are mocked, but his Yeezy showcased more visual ingenuity and raw freshness than most of the hyped lessers installed in major brands, on their best day, frankly.

(Speaking of Cristobal…Women can search out vintage designer pieces of the 1940s/1950s/1960s. But men can’t ever do that since designer of those periods never designed for men— and no, I’d be dead before I’d wear anything from Pierre Cardin, so he doesn’t count. I find myself watching old Hitchcock films just to see how people dressed and moved in their clothes, especially the men.)

 

[jeanclaude]

^^^ There was a fleeting glimpse of his true personal taste when he debuted at Balenciaga: Plush, lush knits and sportswear with even more plush, lush cocooning leathers mixed with that Eastern European mum prints for the dresses. It was rather authentically charming. And hIs personal preference in beauty seems to be that very icy cold blonde with the hair slicked back, with his type of men being… twink LOOL Then he was shamed for being too White, and that heinous cast of Skid Row headcount came to being, approved by social, and became teh signature for him. The way that he dresses is absolutely reactionary/irony/cosplay to the overdressed uniforms of many in the industry, but also comes off as a mockery-- intentional or unintentional. There was a snap of Riccardo from Scott Schulman’s site back in the day, where he wore a retro gas attendant’s shirt— complete with the name “Habib”on it. Gays in leading fashion roles really do love to cosplay as blue-collar workers.



Personal tastes and preferences, Jean Claude. I can’t suffer the plague of poptart bops that even the middle-aged gays seem to genuinely adore. Kanye's currentday behaviour makes it so easy to mock/dismiss/hate him and diminish all his talents— and that talent does include his eye for fashion designs, as far as I’m concerned: His talent for fashion designer may be mediocre— but still better than the handful of hilariously overhyped lessers pretending to be designers currently installed at the bluechip brands; all of whom BTW, can't even possess the talent to hire stronger talents around them-- even with corporate money. And his musical work wavers between musical revolution and musical genius. And if nothing else, his musical visionary run of the epic trilogy My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy/Watch The Throne/The Life Of Pablo is deserving of the creative respect in pop culture that cements his pop icon status. And because people hate him now, his music and especially his fashion designs are mocked, but his Yeezy showcased more visual ingenuity and raw freshness than most of the hyped lessers installed in major brands, on their best day, frankly.

(Speaking of Cristobal…Women can search out vintage designer pieces of the 1940s/1950s/1960s. But men can’t ever do that since designer of those periods never designed for men— and no, I’d be dead before I’d wear anything from Pierre Cardin, so he doesn’t count. I find myself watching old Hitchcock films just to see how people dressed and moved in their clothes, especially the men.)

Yes, everyone has personal music taste...but I have always thought Kanye is way overrated.

But talking about fashion, I only can see him as someone who got interested in high fashion because of its status and the image it projects (well, hip-hop scene is very based on that principle).

I can´t take him seriously.

 

[slinkystan]

what got people talking about ticci? is he doing anything or is he still in gay exile

 

[MulletProof]

And frankly, Kanye was, and would likely be, a much better talent as a CD and designer than many now installed at the majority of once great labels. (…Not sure if his hissyfits and tantrums were always prevalent, but he really was a part of something in fashion that was shiny and new at the time. Unfortunately, people devolve for the worst; just take a gander at currentday Candace Owens…)

These people are actually doing better than ever in their daytime jobs lol.. Candace's rant on Erika Kirk and Brooklyn Beckham? Kanye's 2026 shows in Mexico City after admitting his frontal lobe is all fcked?. I think he's even dressing his slave wife with actual clothes now.

These guys at the major houses are all so mid I can't even physically tell them apart but let's not revise history, even compared to them, Kanye's stint in fashion remains a rock bottom, just a fan doing fan art. Some people buy yachts, Kanye bought productions to stage 'fashion shows' to be just like his idols.. from his 2012 show in Paris when he wanted to be Tisci, the filthy sweatshirts and shorts that was basically peach-flavored Rick Owens, to the spandex stuff in 2015-2016 for the plus size and surgically-deformed BBL/lipo communities that only fit into clothes via elastic bands (the precursor of Skims).. and of course his Adidas collaboration that still pollutes cities to this day and has somehow become the perfect companion for MJ's The Tote Bag in that 'spelling out broke' category.

Graduation was a pretty good, nothing groundbreaking.. he borrowed and remixed sounds from indie rock and popular, non-rap music and wasn't as closed off or a purist as most rappers at the time were and that made music media weak on its knees and from then on, there's this urban myth that he's a genius, partly because of that marketing and relatively reputable music publications from the early 00s (e.g. Pitchfork) that hyped the hell out of him, and partly because he was mentally ill enough to claim so, but from day one, he's kind of been in the US what Pharrell is in France, the one rapper non-black people know, accept because their music is watered down with familiar sounds and little to no social commentary, and eventually their main reference for a genre they don't really care to know but if they only insist he's at the indisputable top, then there's no need to know and cherry on top is, they just paid themselves a compliment 'my music taste is vast.. but I only listen to the very best' lol.

And it’s weird, I have àlways found interesting that he chose to represent the kind of vulgar, sexy woman in the western side of Europe (La cagole, the sexy eurotrash ) but never that side that exist in the Eastern European context too in which is much more present in people mind than what he showed…

you're talking about Demna right? if yes, that's so true, I hadn't notice that.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That’s the irritating part: Candace is doing so well with her conspiracy theory lunacy— from Kamala to Brigitte to Erika. She’s either major league trolling for dollars, or she’s genuinely committed to her insanity and influencing millions of subscribers along with her. She didn’t just do a full 180, she went beyond bizzaro world standards: From common sense to Queen of the conspiracy theory academic thumping her bible hard. (…But that Candace Owens interned at Vogue in the fashion closet department is eternally more interesting than that Devil Wears Prada movie and its sequel: The raise and raise and raise of the lunacy of Candace— and she would never wear currentday Prada…)

And meaning as a compliment, Kanye is/was a pop star/icon. I understand some only like their rappers to be hard and oppressed, and he never was that from the very start. Sean Combs and his crew were never convincing as a popstars; Kanye evolved more from Missy’s brand of nerdy eccentricity that felt more a revival of Tribe Called Quest/Digable Planets/De La Soul. That he evolved his sound to be so bombastically epic and operatic with pop sensibilities no doubt irritated people. Then he associated with high fashion royalties likely even isolated people even more. But like Candace’s currentday lunacy, he became even more famous for it.

(...Back to Riccardo: I looked for a duffle coat from his Burberry… They were all so much a mockery of Burberry’s ideal it was gross. Ended up snatching a Prorsum one from Christoper’s era instead. I still remember his preview/debut of very simple Burberry silhouettes: It was so promising. Then the insistence on the dumb bland revised logo and admittedly decent Peter Saville monogram that was immediately dropped since it did nothing for the merch LOOL HIs ego absolutely contaminated Burberry: There were some solid designs consistently throughout his tenure tho. If he learned to humble that ego, he still has it in him to impress.)

 

[MulletProof]

^^^ That’s the irritating part: Candace is doing so well with her conspiracy theory lunacy— from Kamala to Brigitte to Erika. She’s either major league trolling for dollars, or she’s genuinely committed to her insanity and influencing millions of subscribers along with her. She didn’t just do a full 180, she went beyond bizzaro world standards: From common sense to Queen of the conspiracy theory academic thumping her bible hard. (…But that Candace Owens interned at Vogue in the fashion closet department is eternally more interesting than that Devil Wears Prada movie and its sequel: The raise and raise and raise of the lunacy of Candace— and she would never wear currentday Prada…)

The latter! and it's that amount of subscribers, the insistence and high demand for unhinged takes on what can be very easily explained what sheds light into what's happening in the US and makes you want to scratch your head (from a more sociological perspective) on the best way to bring these people back from the rabbit hole.. in the long-term of course. It's some kind of neo-obscurantism that only receives rejection without any helpful intervention. I will say, I did not expect her to push back, same for Tucker, they both seemed to die for the profit of an indoctrinated market so the fact that she's been trolling her own group and as you say, maybe trying to secure and monopolise profit under some type of antagonism? hilarious. I was trying to find the original Erika Kirk rant yesterday and didn't realise there are so many of them, like.. one per day?! go girl.. 💸 lol, and it's fascinating there's a whole market for that content ('so if Charlie was killed at 2:42 but this man departed the Santa Barbara airport at 2:44? not involved, but if he departed at 2:40? definitely involved') and then she included some very reliable backup source whose English has got to be his only language and he's like 'it is evidence that was the case'..😶

I can't remember a single thing Tisci did at Burberry, even Givenchy was trash in the last years.. not to go Candace here but the moment both Tisci and Rick were approached to get their naked torso professionally shot, a screw in their head came off, things were never the same..

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Oh yes, she and her team really do produce and present her lunacy daily in such impressive deep dive depths on her targets— and it goes on deeper and deepest for weeks just on her one target subject… Just when she couldn’t be more relentlessly ridiculous, she outdoes herself. Her charismatic commitment is unmatched, unrivalled, and untouchable. She’s frighteningly ferociously fascinating LOOL (…Don’t get yourself addicted to her— she really does makes it so easy, it’s disturbing…)

(Thought it was longer but of course that doesn’t make sense, but Riccardo was only at Burberry for 4 years… Looking at the 2017 A/W offering, it was so awful I wondered who filled in to design it— and it was still Christopher LMFAO…weeps…)