Riccardo Tisci Named Chief Creative Officer at Burberry

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by mistress_f, Mar 1, 2018.

  1. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    And that is really what i don't understand about this new strategy they are trying to go for.

    Burberry by Bailey when it was the hottest brand was great at being luxury and contemporary at the same time and before everybody. What was great about Burberry is that you really felt like Prorsum, Brit and London were handled with the same level of integrity.

    It was really a brand where you could have bought a cheaper easy piece like a printed sweater from the Brit with a pair of pants from the London and a coat from the Prorsum. It was very clever and i think that the youth at the time responded to that. People who were buying the Brit line weren't buying "the cheaper version of the runway".

    He tried to introduce precious fabrics to Burberry but as you said i don't think preciousness work for a brand so attached to an idea of practicality. Burberry sells clothes and is known for outerwear, people want luxury in a "well made" sense of the word not the preciousness. This is something that Riccardo will have to take into consideration.

    I think that Riccardo can do it well if he doesn't make it all about himself. Givenchy really became about himself and got lost in the end. I think he has to handle it as a job where he has to follow a certain feel much like what Phoebe did with Chloé as opposed to Celine. He is working for a brand now, he doesn't have to revive something. I hope he gets it.
    He went to St Martins school so i think he knows about that english spirit.

    Maybe now, people in London will have more respect for big brands now.
     
  2. Sensation

    Sensation V.I.P.

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    Interested to see how it turns out as he wouldn't be my first choice for Burberry...
     
  3. zacatecas570

    zacatecas570 Well-Known Member

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    Burberry Hires Riccardo Tisci

    Riccardo Tisci, who left his role as creative director at Givenchy in February of last year for what many presumed was the top job at Versace, has been installed at Burberry as chief creative officer, effective March 12. The British label made the announcement this morning, ending speculation that began the moment Christopher Bailey’s departure was announced in late October 2017.
    During his 12-year tenure, Tisci turned Givenchy, which had not much in the way of a brand identity when he arrived in 2005, into one of LVMH’s powerhouse brands, with heat-generating runway shows and a commercial savvy that helped to usher in fashion’s obsession with streetwear. Tisci’s cool factor has been much missed in the year since his departure, though he has kept reasonably active. A new installment of his Nike collaboration was released in mid-February, and his work is to be featured in the Costume Institute’s upcoming “Heavenly Bodies” exhibition, a press conference in Rome on Monday revealed.

    Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s CEO as of last July, held the same role at Givenchy before his stint at Céline, so it’s a wonder that Tisci’s name has not come up more often in discussions about who would replace Bailey. (Céline’s Phoebe Philo and Louis Vuitton’s recent menswear designer, Kim Jones, were the designers most often talked about.)

    Tisci’s Burberry is likely to look different than Bailey’s. Where Bailey trumpeted heritage, Tisci celebrates hedonism. Having produced haute couture at Givenchy, Tisci also has a great deal of expertise (and red carpet exposure) for eveningwear, a category that Burberry hasn’t really invested in. But as out gay men, they do share common ground in their support of LGBTQ+ freedoms. Bailey’s rainbow-hued swansong for Spring 2018 (Burberry is currently operating on a see-now-buy-now model) will raise money for LGBTQ+ charities globally.
    In a statement, Tisci said, “I am honored and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new chief creative officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand.”

    Vogue
     
  4. zacatecas570

    zacatecas570 Well-Known Member

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    Weird combo! He'd be perfect for Versace or Chanel.

    So I guess he will move the brand to MFW again and will have models from around the world to do the campaign.
     
  5. KKnardi

    KKnardi Active Member

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    I like the fact that they hired a foreigner for the job, kind of a little jab at Brexit

    Not entirely sold on the fit either though, is Riccardo strong enough to pull Burberry off?
     
  6. Nepenthes

    Nepenthes Active Member

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    Did not see this coming! I'm excited!
     
  7. fashionlover2001

    fashionlover2001 Active Member

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    ^My thoughts exactly.

    But this is really is an exciting move for Burberry. I can't wait to see what's in store for the brand.
     
  8. disco54

    disco54 Well-Known Member

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    Well it cannot be any worse than Slimane at Celine, that being said his gothic/dark aesthetic is devoid of any British/English sensibility afaik.
     
  9. zacatecas570

    zacatecas570 Well-Known Member

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    I think he has an stronger vision than Bailey's. This brand needs a little goth :smile:
     
  10. Marc10

    Marc10 Moderator

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    He's relocating to London so I don't think so.
     
  11. Fernini

    Fernini Active Member

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    Why don't ppl wait and see before they start b*tching about it? :rolleyes:
     
  12. orchidee

    orchidee Active Member

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    ^Because people are allowed to have opinions.

    I personally think it's an odd pairing, but it'll be interesting to see how/if he incorporates the brand's heritage into his work. This is honestly surprising to me since it seemed like a no-brainer for Phoebe or Kim to take over. The tribute collection last season would have been the perfect time for Donatella to call it quits and let Riccardo take on Versace.
     
  13. FadeToBlack

    FadeToBlack Member

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    Burberry is a powerhouse and I get why they appointed him. He made Givenchy profitable. Before his announcement at Givenchy they turned over a few designers before he made an impact on his market in 2007.

    I remember back in 2005 Sidney Tolendo told John Galliano to buck his ideas up and make Dior profitable and desirable so instead, they got rid of T-Shirts and Jacquard bags (Dior Rasta) in replacement were exotic skins and more exclusivity - but when you look at the market now, t-shirts, sweatshirts, entry level items like SLG's are still fuelling the bottom line and that is what he achieved and made desirable at Givenchy yet elevated the brands image into the luxury sector whilst remaining accessible. This thread is a fine example of everyone missing his couture, yet when you look at their wholesale doors they easily exceed 200 world-wide? without stand alone and concessions. if you look at what is retailing now on places like MrPorter, Net-a-porter, Luisaviaroma et al they still sell signature Tisci pieces from his tenure, I haven't seen much of Clare's yet, however it is early days. But the Givenchy Paris motif, the star embellishments etc are still incredibly popular. Just like Hedi at SL.

    Burberry are not stupid with this hiring, I just hope Riccardo does drown us in check because we are being waterboarded with the past few seasons when this is not what we need to be seeing. I think if you want to see successful re-introductions of logos or motifs look at Fendi or Gucci for examples of how they bought their Jacquard materials back, or Dior for that matter.
    I think the issue with that check is the scale they use it on, it covers everything, it's not a detail on something - it IS the item itself.

    Anyway, I'm shocked at this announcement but it's refreshing to be surprised than expecting it so kudos to them for keeping it so lowkey.
     
  14. FadeToBlack

    FadeToBlack Member

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    I agree completely.

    Riccardo is all about Italy and his family and it made sense that he moved to Italy to such a vibrant house that fit his DNA.

    With Phoebe at Burberry it made sense because she hate's working abroad away from her family hence why Celine was moved to London for her - plus her aesthetic fits with the brands DNA yet it's fresher.

    Kim also made sense because of his calibre of design at Vuitton he was used to working with an archive based on prints which is what Burberry is largely based on.

    I think Kim may go to Versace, however - he did post on Instagram about not having anything to do.
     
  15. KKnardi

    KKnardi Active Member

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    True, agree!

    I'm looking forward to see what he comes up with for the september collection!
     
  16. ghostwriter10549

    ghostwriter10549 Well-Known Member

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    Shocking, but great news.

    This is everything that Burberry and LFW needs right now: a big brand with a new and very strong vision.
    My only fear is: the lazy Riccardo. I hate him.
    BUT, even that he dont deliver, the boost that this will give in fashion in general its huge and exciting, so I cant wait to see it.
     
  17. orchidee

    orchidee Active Member

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    For me at least, Phoebe would have been the most logical choice. She has that clever eccentricity that is so characteristically British, which I feel Burberry could use a dose of at the moment. I certainly won't discount Riccardo, though, because I love what he did at Givenchy. It's just that there's a disconnect with the sensibilities here.
     
  18. educo

    educo Active Member

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    Wow. This is completely unexpected, but I think Galliano's move to Margiela sparked this trend of very unusual pairings. Frankly, Riccardo needs this challenge to break him out of his street goth rut.
     
  19. Fashionstuff

    Fashionstuff http://fashionworldstuff.

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    I'm excited. Want see what Riccardo will do with Burberry.
     
  20. happycanadian

    happycanadian Well-Known Member

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    FACE CRACK OF THE CENTURY!

    This is crazy!! Wildly unexpected. Wow.
     

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