Riccardo Tisci Named Chief Creative Officer at Burberry

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by mistress_f, Mar 1, 2018.

  1. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Vogue Paris February 2019

    Tisci, Accent British

    Photographer: David Sims
    Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
    Hair: Damien Boissinot
    Make up: Lucia Pieroni
    Manicure: Ama Quashie
    Cast: Riccardo Tisci, Linda Helena, Maike Inga

    [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG]

    Vogue Paris Digital Edition
     
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  2. ghostwriter10549

    ghostwriter10549 Well-Known Member

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    Horrible profile pic of him. Looks like a Grindr type of profile photo, so pedestrian.

    The ed is OK. I love the styling, his Burberry is starting to makes more sense to me, I feel like now I get it why I need his new clothes.
     
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  3. dodencebt

    dodencebt Well-Known Member

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    I'm honestly not sure the findings of the report say that Riccardo's Burberry is "working" as much as they are hyping him. It's clearly still too early to tell, with barely 50 percent of new products in store and single-digit growth. I guess we'll see more real results in a year or so.

    businessoffashion.com
     
  4. perfect blue

    perfect blue Active Member

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    I'm wondering how long he is going to stay at Burberry.
     
  5. tatouejeremie

    tatouejeremie Active Member

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    those numbers are very surprising to me, but maybe i'm just out of touch
     
  6. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    Burberry needed a fresh air and any fresh air for a brand that was struggling end up with a success...If the designer has a strong aesthetic.

    I don’t think they nailed it in terms of identity but the products are good. I’m a Riccardo fan so i like the clothes. I’m less interested by the logomania but it works.

    I feel like at Burberry, the real person under pressure is the CEO. That’s why we have those weird reports for just one collection when it’s always better to see long term and to judge the performance on 1 full year.

    I really don’t see Riccardo renewing his contract. I need him at Versace...Really or a French Couture house.
     
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  7. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Burberry's marketing exec for the US market is out. I was thinking when last I saw an impactful magazine cover showing the new Burberry codes in general, not just US. Vogue China, Korea and Japan earlier this year, Vogue India this month? Gives you an idea of where their focus lies.

    While fashion marketing execs don't necessarily have a hand in the creative vision of campaigns and the like, they are expected to forge relationships with stylists and editors, to secure prime advertising space for the brand in magazines or on websites, motivate covers and advertorials, control the frequency and pace of campaigns and announcements are released. Despite Burberry's sales slowly picking up, one of the brand's biggest drawbacks imo is still the lack of presence, across all their territories. Most of the prime advertising spots are taken up by Chanel, Gucci Prada, LV, Givenchy. But many smaller brands have been able to work around that. Balenciaga upped their game from the start by slotting their ads between fashion editorials (not space traditionally reserved for advertising, yet at the same time possibly the most lucrative space in the magazine because you have the reader's full focus.) Jacquemus seems to put all his focus into targeting niche markets such as Scandinavia and not China like everyone else. Marant advertise heavily in Feb/March and Sept/Oct, Balmain reserves most of their budget for France, yet stylists still shoot them.

    Most September covers are out and unless they've secured a Vogue Paris or Italia cover, it's not looking good for them. I would've thought since Tisci and his team are going to such lengths to run two campaigns showing two different moods, they'd target both demographics aggressively but it seems most of the focus is going into partnering with the likes of Hypebeast and mainly the men's market. As it is there's not a single British magazine who the brand can rely on for consistent support. In British Elle's 60 pages of fashion editorials for their September issue, the brand only features once (in Angelina Jolie's edit - a simple trench coat, which btw was styled by the US edition), meaning, technically speaking, zero presence. And as a British brand, that's not a good sign.

    George Kolasa to Leave Burberry: Sources
     
    #167 Benn98, Aug 8, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2019
  8. perfect blue

    perfect blue Active Member

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    He would be good at Versace, I think
     
  9. bc collector

    bc collector Active Member

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    Most of us share this opinion. Yet it was his choice to go to Burberry rather than Versace (that is what it sounded like, judging from a recent interview Donatella gave the NYT).

    Unless some crucial piece of information is missing from this story to make complete sense.
     
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  10. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    I hope it will happen because the brand is a complete mess right now. I’ve seen that they are trying to push Versace Jeans Couture again. I was like...Come’on!

    Burberry’s current CEO was his boss at Givenchy. Maybe this had an impact in his decision. And London, much like Paris is a very inspiring city from someone like him...

    I wonder if the designer for Versace has to work from Milan.

    He is too talented to not head Versace. He can do menswear, Couture and womenswear without it being cringy like it is right now.
     
  11. bc collector

    bc collector Active Member

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    A designer with his credibility and status can negotiate whatever he wants, in terms of design team and logistic choices (I remember Tom Ford running the design studio from London in his Gucci days). Versace needs him more than the other way round and Donatella, I am sure, would be more than happy to go some extra length to make sure he's happy in the company.

    That said, I can't help feeling there's something odd the way the story has been told, something is missing from the picture.
     
  12. Kite

    Kite Active Member

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    Don't know if this has been mentioned here....

    Rumour has it that DV and RT were in near-final talks about him heading up Versace, until he mentioned that he wanted it to be rebranded as 'Versace by Riccardo Tisci'.

    DV was extremely offended, stating that 'VERSACE' was her brothers brand and nobody ever will have their name run next to his, and how arrogant RT was thinking he was as important as GV.

    Hence no move to Versace.
     
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  13. billiejbob

    billiejbob Active Member

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    Good on DV for standing her ground.
     
  14. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    Good for DV indeed but it would have been rebranded in the credits in the press actually.
    His work for Givenchy was always credited in the press as Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci but the brand was still Givenchy. Tom did the same when he was at Gucci, Hedi did the same, Nicolas did that at Balenciaga, sometimes Alber and Karl and John were credited like that but I don’t think it was required.

    At some point, when she will consider who are the best talents for Versace, she will have to consider it. Star designers don’t Work only for the prestige of the brand. Their ego is also part of the whole thing.

    But I get it, she is a Versace.
     
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  15. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    +4 on Donatella standing her ground. Although with that said, I'm still convinced he would've had success at Versace much sooner than he currently does at Burberry. This brand is too big and commercial for him and he's trying to evolve alongside the brand. Not going to work, sorry.
     
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  16. dodencebt

    dodencebt Well-Known Member

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    I actually think the "by [designer]" is a very reasonable addition when a new creative director is hired. Versace is still Versace, and no one can take away Gianni's and Donatella's legacy - Riccardo's would be a new chapter, and it helps with references in the future to be honest (like what is now known as Gucci by Tom Ford, or Christian Dior by John Galliano etc. And as Lola said, they were credited in the press like that too, but the clothing labels never mentioned the designers for example). But I can see why Donatella would find it offensive, if true.
     
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  17. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    Earnings should be in, has anyone heard or read anything about how sales have gone since Ricardo's collection hit stores? I feel like no one cares about the new Burberry.
     
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  18. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    For Burberry, China Is No Longer Ripe for the Picking

    British luxury brand’s shares are overpriced given risks to its turnaround plan

    By Carol Ryan
    Aug. 16, 2019 5:27 am ET

    It isn’t an easy time for companies that depend on selling expensive products to Chinese consumers.

    Trench-coat maker Burberry is particularly exposed to the chill winds blowing from Asia, even by the China-centric standards of the European luxury sector. Chinese shoppers contribute roughly two-fifths of Burberry’s revenue globally, and many of them buy their products in protest-ridden Hong Kong.

    The stock was immune to investors’ wider worries about China until this month, when the whole sector was hit by President Trump’s announcement of a 10% tariff on an additional $300 billion of Chinese goods followed by China’s decision to let its currency devalue. Even now, after a 10% fall in the month to date, Burberry stock appears expensive on 23 times expected earnings—one-tenth above its five-year average.

    The brand is a little over midway through a multiyear makeover. Last year Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti hired a new lead designer, Riccardo Tisci, best known for his work at Givenchy. The hope is that the new creative approach and a better handbag range—a more lucrative category than clothing—can lift Burberry’s comparatively low 16% operating margin.

    But investors have gotten carried away. Burberry’s shares have recently been pricing in sales growth of 5% to 6% in the second half of the company’s financial year, which runs through March, according to calculations by Bernstein. Meeting these high expectations will be tough. An immediate problem is weak spending in Hong Kong, where antigovernment demonstrations are stretching into their 10th week. A dozen or so boutiques in the city account for 6% of Burberry’s revenue.

    Moreover, the brand is more reliant on Asian spenders than its rivals. For the quarter through June, sales in Europe were driven by tourists rather than locals, while business in its Americas region was flat. As the brand is still removing products from less salubrious department stores in the U.S., growth there should remain subdued. So while signs that Mr. Tisci’s new collections are going down well with Chinese shoppers are positive, Burberry has little to fall back on if they tighten their belts.
    Granted, China’s luxury spenders have proven to be a resilient lot so far this year, despite the wider slowdown in consumer demand for mass-market goods like electronics in the Chinese market. But this could change as the weaker yuan makes European luxury goods more expensive. The current Sino-American trade tensions are unpredictable—on Tuesday the U.S. delayed the introduction of its latest tariffs—but at some point they seem likely to take a toll on the consumer confidence of China’s elite.

    Burberry’s stock, which hit a record high last month, is still priced as if Chinese shoppers could be taken for granted. Investors’ optimism may have only just started to sour.


    Wall Street Journal
     
  19. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    Looks like a good time to sell if you have any stock.
     

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