helmut.newton
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nymag.com
NEW YORK -- They may not be couturiers in name, but sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy from Pasadena might as well be, considering the extraordinary handiwork that goes into each and every piece in their Rodarte collections. Their fall show, ostensibly inspired by the work of photographer Ari Marcopoulos (copies of his moody black-and-whites were included with the show notes), was even more complex and textural than what they have done before.
source: weblogs.amny.comThe economy implodes. Society disintegrates. Buildings crumble. We eke out a meager existence amidst the ruins. Daunting, yes—but what to wear? The Rodarte gals—sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy—answer with a line of patchwork mini dresses of luxe fabric scraps. Lace, netting, leather, Lurex, all loosely top-stitched and swaddling the body.
A cropped leather jacket is reinforced with umpteen buckled snakeskin straps. A linebacker sweater vest with gobs of wool offsets cellophane sleeves. Gloves sprout sprigs of fluff and boots are strapped round and round, up, up, up to the thigh. (Pity the poor model whose strap came undone and tripped...and tripped...and tripped as it swung round her leg like a maypole.)
Eager to share their thought process, the Mulleavys offered an inspirational lookbook in addition to the program. They included aerial photos of city streets, the lines of pavement, painted lane dividers, curbs and sidewalk stones looking, well, much like a patchwork of textures and shades. Other photos revealed a parched desert landscape of scrub brush, and a desolate warehouse or the underside of an overpass, all desolate with debris and scattered drifts of snow. In one image, a young masked boy stands proudly wearing wings. Icarus, perhaps, who flew too high and paid the price.
The dresses were of a type—"Mad Max" chic—but the color palette slowly changed from grays and bisque to hits of azure, aqua, then full-on green. Signs of a rebirth? In these dresses, you’ll look sexy either way. Where you'll wear them BEFORE civilization plunges off the abyss, we're not so sure. But if you're one of their young, edgy customers who still has some cash burning a hole in your pocket, we're confident you'll think of something, surely....