Rodolfo Paglialunga Named Jil Sander Creative Director

[VogueDisciple93]

MILAN — After several good-byes, the Jil Sander group is ready to say hello to a new creative director — Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga. His first collection will bow in September for the spring 2015 season.

Rest of the article at wwd.com

 

[anlabe32]

I've looked him up and I can't say i'm excited... surely there must be a better candidate who's style is truer to the Jil Sander aesthetic.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Such a weird choice to design Jil Sander. It'll be very interesting to see how it turns out.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

Does this indicate that no one more suitable was available? Seriously???
Gosh, probably another Italian man making tacky sexy dresses at the label, much like Milan Vukmirovic did.

 

[pellucid]

Jil Sander Names Creative Director

RODOLFO PAGLIALUNGA has been named creative director at Jil Sander.

The news comes after months of speculation as to who will take the helm of the label, following the announcement by its eponymous founder, Sander, that she was departing the label for the third time last October.

Paglialunga, formerly womenswear design director at Prada and creative director at Vionnet, will make his debut for the brand this September at Milan Fashion Week where he will show his vision for spring/summer 2015.

"He is the most fitting designer to write the new pages of the Jil Sander story," Alessandro Cremonesi, chief executive officer of Jil Sander, said. "He has the right characteristics and the experience to evolve the Jil Sander brand in a new direction while respecting its essential traits."

"I'm deeply honored to have the opportunity to take on this role," Paglialunga told WWD. "I have boundless admiration for the brand as I strongly believe in its pure vision and values. My aim is to carry forward the fusion between sophistication, luxury and innovation and bring the house to the next level."

He will follow in the footsteps of Raf Simons, who helmed the label from July 2005 to February 2012, before leaving for the top job at Dior when Sander herself returned to the label, only to depart again 18 months later.

vogue.co.uk

 

[HeatherAnne]

NOOOO, I still blame him for the downfall of the Vionnet label! I'm extremely upset with this hire.

 

[Marc10]

Well that wasn't what I was expecting... at all. I never really cared for his work Vionnet, and honestly I was enjoying the design team work on the last two collections. I just hope he doesn't turn Jil Sander into a commercial, red carpet ready brand.

 

[Scott]

his work wasn't my favourite at vionnet but they treated him horribly after they got new owners in. and we see the circus it became after that as well...yet another owner change the year following and another designer switch after only a season or two. in that it's wonderful he gets another chance....but i just wonder how his aesthetics will possibly translate to JS? his work was often predicated on drape,opulence and trendiness so this will be an entirely different concept for him. i never saw much from him in the way of tailoring which is what JS is known for....structure,clean lines....just quiet.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I know a house like Jil needs a "proper" (for lack of a better word) designer, but I, for one, quite like what the design team did on its own...

Wait and see...

 

[kiseki]

that was unexpected, he had purposed some innovative shapes and cuts in his collections which is the core to the brand, and a better understanding of the female's form than Raf. I guess a little glam won't hurt the legacy of Jil Sander. Take off those tacky embellishments and prints, he should be ok.

 

[shanhuq]

They didn't want to hire someone… I don't know… younger? more relevant?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

They didn't want to hire someone… I don't know… younger? more relevant?

Balenciaga went that route and look how that's turned out for them.

 

[5 8 6]

It's sad seeing one of my favorite fashion house treated like that.

 

[HeatherAnne]

They didn't want to hire someone… I don't know… younger? more relevant?

I actually don't see why either of those things would matter, they've never tried to be a trendy brand. That's actually my problem with their hiring of Paglialunga, he took Vionnet from the fantastic minimalist label it was and tried to make it cutting edge when he should have left well enough alone.

...But maybe I'm just a nostalgic fool.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Balenciaga went that route and look how that's turned out for them.

Saint Laurent being the better example

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Let's just hope he's not going to disregard the house's DNA like other designers have been doing.:roll eye: I'm 50/50 on him. Part of me thinks he can do the job as long as he gets rid of the tacky embellishments and sticks to clean silhouettes, part of me is scared he'll take the house into a whole new direction.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I actually thought Paglialunga's Vionnet was rather excellent. Of course I'm referring to the actual clothes and not any uncertain perception gained from only looking at pictures online. The clothes were gorgeous, the cuts and technique were amazing, and it all felt rather fresh and new. Letting him leave was the worst thing that happened to house.

I was always hoping he'd resurface somewhere big but I never imagined Jil. He's an incredibly smart and talented designer and I can't wait to see what he does.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I would have prefered to see somebody with a more menswear-based mindset design Jil Sander. This is not the go-to house for pretty party frocks or cocktail dresses, or at least those shouldn't be done in the same approach as at other houses. I don't think he would have been available for the job or that the current management of Jil Sander could have afforded to hire him off from Uniqlo, but I do believe Naoki Takizawa would have been THE one perfect choice for this job - Other than that, (and probably to be had for a salary lower than that) Kostas Murkudis could have been a very terrific choice.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I actually thought Paglialunga's Vionnet was rather excellent. Of course I'm referring to the actual clothes and not any uncertain perception gained from only looking at pictures online. The clothes were gorgeous, the cuts and technique were amazing, and it all felt rather fresh and new. Letting him leave was the worst thing that happened to house.

Slightly off-topic, but if there was any designer they should have not let go at Vionnet, it was Sophia Kokosalaki.

 

[valliaddict]

I actually liked his work at Vionnet. I'm not so sure his aesthetic works at Jil Sander, though. Even though this would've been a safe/predictable choice, I would've loved to see Narciso Rodriguez take the helm.