S/S 2022 Haute Couture - The Show Schedule Thread

[vogue28]

Click to expand:

FHCM.PARIS

*Updated calendar (as of 20/01/2022) now attached.

 

[vogue28]

Balenciaga, Pyer Moss and Maison Margiela will be absent:

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Pls let the Ralph Rucci be true

 

[jeanclaude]

Rucci please!!! About Balenciaga...well, another parade of rehashed archival pieces mixed with jeans, big shoulder pads and parkas...so they better stay at home.

 

[Lola701]

VAUTHIER, ARMANI PRIVÉ, GAULTIER, IMANE AYISSI and RALPH RUCCI are the only names that matters for me here.

Rucci please!!! About Balenciaga...well, another parade of rehashed archival pieces mixed with jeans, big shoulder pads and parkas...so they better stay at home.

The absence of Balenciaga just confirm what I said about KERING brands and Haute Couture. It’s all about a stunt and there’s no real culture or desire to perpetuate the spirit of Haute Couture.
After such an apparent success, you comeback. We saw it with Fendi Haute Fourrure! Despite the controversy, it worked! Balmain, Balenciaga and Gucci Premiere are all in the same basket for me.

 

[THD96]

The absence of Balenciaga just confirm what I said about KERING brands and Haute Couture. It’s all about a stunt and there’s no real culture or desire to perpetuate the spirit of Haute Couture.

Apparently this is how Demba feels:

 

[Lola701]

Apparently this is how Demba feels:

But that’s how you keep an Atelier going and how you keep an industry working. It’s very disrespectful to say it the way he said it…

I find it funny that he has an issue with presenting two Couture a year and no complains about the multiples RTW collections he has to deliver in order to keep his boss, Mr Pinault, happy.
There’s no need for 8 to 10 RTW per/year.

It’s the double standard for me…

 

[perhydrol]

Regardless of what Demna said in that interview, I honestly don't know why WWD is so surprised by the absence of Balenciaga in the calendar because it's been obvious since the very beginning that they would show once a year.

 

[LadyJunon]

But that’s how you keep an Atelier going and how you keep an industry working. It’s very disrespectful to say it the way he said it…

I find it funny that he has an issue with presenting two Couture a year and no complains about the multiples RTW collections he has to deliver in order to keep his boss, Mr Pinault, happy.
There’s no need for 8 to 10 RTW per/year.

It’s the double standard for me…

This left such a sour taste in my mouth. Gvasalia knows that the FHCM has non-negociable conditions to allow the term "Haute Couture" to be legally used. It's like he feels that because of his relevancy and commercial successes at Balenciaga, he is entitled to a spot on the schedule despite half-assing the job.

Haute Couture isn't a slave to commercial successes like ready to wear is. It's actually a huge financial loss to most houses. The type of clientele, even those who are younger, who buys clothing with a price tag of five, six or more digits, seldom care about Fortnite or other Gen-Z paraphernalia.

Also, it's never a good look for the FHCM when one their members manages to create four collections for women, four collections for men, several clout chasing accessories, two video game collaborations and an episode of the Simpsons in one year, but is miraculously unable to accomplish a task that independent fashion houses an fraction of Balenciaga's size manage to do effortlessly.

All this says is that Gvasalia and Gvasalia's Balenciaga has peaked. Gucci with Michele too. Let's hope the the downfall of slow and painless...

 

[velvetandsilk]

Apparently this is how Demba feels:

That is such ignorance... Worth invented seasonality, but the Federation (1868) and the main rules was created in 1885-1888 (XIX century) by Roger Worth. I am not surprised by his poor knowledge, since designing a T-shirt according to him is a challenge, not an evening gown, which he can't come up with, but just digs from the archive.

 

[LadyJunon]

Update on the show formats of each designer:

Houses doing physical shows and livestreams:

24th
10:00 Schiaparelli
14:30 Dior (+livestream)
16:00 Azzaro (Theyskens' first show since the pandemic)
17:00 Dior (second show)

25th
14:30 Stéphane Rolland

26th
13:00 Valentino
14:30 Jean Paul Gaultier
16:00 Viktor and Rolf
17:00 Elie Saab

27th
11:00 Yuima Nakazato
14:30 Fendi
18:30 Yanina

Houses doing physical shows and digital content:

25th
13:30 Alexis Mabille
14:00 Chanel (live shows at 10:00 and 12:00)
16:30 Julien Fournié
17:30 Alexandre Vauthier

27th
16:00 Amane Ayissi

Houses doing exclusively digital content:

24th
11:00 Ulyana Sergeenko
13:00 Georges Hobeika
18:00 Maison Rabih Kayrouz

25th
17:30 Roland van der Kemp

26th
11:00 Frank Sorbier
12:00 Zuhair Murad
18:00 Rahul Mishra
19:00 Charles de Vilmorin

27th
10:00 Aelis
12:00 Julie de Libran
13:00 Christophe Josse
17:30 Ralph Rucci

Houses doing static presentations:

24th
Iris van Herpen (time unspecified)

Absent houses:
Alaïa (showing on the 23rd, 20:30)
Armani Privé (cancelled)
Balenciaga (kicked out for the second time in the house's history)
Giambattista Valli (reason unknown)
Maison Margiela (they skipped a lot of seasons since Fall 2020...)
Maurizio Galante (probably just a guest)
Pyer Moss (probably just a guest)
Vaishali S (probably just a guest)

 

[LadyJunon]

Update on Giambattista Valli:

Giambattista Valli's Spring 2022 Couture and Pre-fall 2022 collections will be presented together in the form of a digital showcase on the 17th at 19:30.

 

[Ruito]

Does anyone know if Schiaparelli is showing a physical show?

 

[LadyJunon]

Does anyone know if Schiaparelli is showing a physical show?

Yes, Schiaparelli is returning to physical shows this season. It will be livestreamed on Monday, the 23rd at 10:00.

 

[Salvatore]

I am looking forward to Schiaparelli as the last few collections have been stunning and am wondering how the live shows will be. The first shows Daniel Roseberry did for the house were not my favourite, but his recent work has been so cool so hoping the dramatics of the clothes can filter into the show as well.

 

[LadyJunon]

I am looking forward to Schiaparelli as the last few collections have been stunning and am wondering how the live shows will be. The first shows Daniel Roseberry did for the house were not my favourite, but his recent work has been so cool so hoping the dramatics of the clothes can filter into the show as well.

Me too. I think that the reception of Schiaparelli's runway return will depend heavily on the setting and the music. The choice of models isn't so important for such clothes, but I'm hoping that they'll keep to a simple, maybe slowed down, walk around the runway to allow the clothes' theatrics to speak for themselves. I also hope that the livestream won't be hell to watch.

 

[Salvatore]

I agree about it being down to the setting and music !! I feel like so many designers these days actually do not take care for creating an atmosphere around the collections. Nothing is really that memorable to me. Really want a slowed, yet sensual and confident walk - something womanly. I am really rooting for Daniel and Schiaparelli !

 

[YohjiAddict]

I hope that he goes for something in the style of Lacroix with a theatrical setting and grandiose music. It’s already there in the clothes…

 

[brandon J pierre]

I grew up loving couture but this list is not great, this week is dead because all of the great designers who put of real great shows are dead now, the art may still be there but the week is forgettable.

 

[Salvatore]

Wow !!! Cannot wait !!!