Saint Laurent F/W 2018.19 Paris

YSL has proved to be a bad b*tch of a house for most of the founder's successors, starting from Elbaz until Pilati. As much as he was undisputedly the most important designer of the second half of the 20th century, his heritage has proved tricky to deal with, maybe because so much of its power is linked to the air of the times (70s in particular). That's why I found pretty dull on Slimane's side to attempt to revive that era with stylistic choices that today, 40 years on, keep very little of the original charge, regardless of their commercial success.
As for Vaccarello, poor thing, he's not a bad designer himself but quite below the expected standard nonetheless. Of course the big heads at Kering knew exactly what they were looking for, certainly not someone with a more radical vision, who might have endangered the commercial momentum the brand is going through.
 
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