Saint Laurent Mens "Skinny Line" S/S 2013 Lookbook

[disco54]

I would hardly categorize Hedi's silhouettes as classic and timeless lol, classic looks do not take on such extreme and severe lithe proportions. His suiting is a riff of what Teddy Boys in London use to wear, if thats a classic, then on the same token, a demob suit would merit that same honor.

 

[Izreal]

well timeless & classic is a bit subjective anyways i guess...

*do not make personal attacks on members, keep discussions civil, please**

 

[Phuel]

disco54: I never said Hedi's designs are classic-- I stated they are always based on classic forms. He's able to reinvent such classics as tuxedo suitings, redingotes, trench and frock coats with his distinct take, which appeals greatly to me for their restraint but never minimalist design and structure. The best designers are able to do that, whereas the weak ones are always copying others and simply making it trendy and accessible. If all Hedi did was change the colors or added embellishments to the classics untouched, he would only be a tailor at Savile Row. Hedi deconstructed the classics beautifully, to me anyway.

I'm curious to know what you would consider classics then? You keep referencing Teddy Boys/Rockabilly to Hedi's design references as if that's all he uses-- and that's simply not true. And even so, Teddy Boys and Rockabillies have endured since the 1950s on, so wouldn't that make them, by definition, a classic?

 

[Izreal]

@ mulletproof: fwiw my comment was not meant as a personal attack, like the person above i was just curious what disco54 considered to be timeless & classic, *do not make personal attacks on members, please. For information on moderated actions, please contact moderator**

 

[Zazie]

unfortunately i don't think you can dissociate the business aspect of the fashion industry with the design direction, especially in this day and age...

Hmm...you do realize that having left a big brand, not just once, but *twice*, does place Heidi Slimane in the same category as those you mentioned, NG, Jil Sander, MM, etc.?

I think this opinion, that somehow design brilliance is blighted by unsuccessful tenure at big corporations, is somewhat fringe - most of us here, who still post threads about the design careers of MM, Helmut Lang, NG, Jil Sander (when she was in the wilderness), didn't let their quarrels with their respective CEOs affect our esteem for their status as fashion legends. Business, art and creativity mostly exist in separate universe, many great artists never sold their works profitably in their lifetime and the reverse is also true - commercially successful designers and brands do not always command the same awe and respect, some of the biggest fashions businesses out there come to mind, from high-street to high-end.

In the end, critics' opinions matter little when the concepts, ideas and looks catch on like a virus. However, other than staunch (verbal) support from bloggers and twitters, I haven't noticed the looks by Slimane coveted and copied by the fashion crowd and in the streets, even after it was worn by Lady Gaga, the ultimate uber-celebrity.

I'm super practical, I don't have personal biases about designers, I am only bothered by badly designed collections.

Here's hoping that Slimane shuts his critics up with his next collection!

 

[Izreal]

Hmm...you do realize that having left a big brand, not just once, but *twice*, does place Heidi Slimane in the same category as those you mentioned, NG, Jil Sander, MM, etc.?

yes definitely

I think this opinion, that somehow design brilliance is blighted by unsuccessful tenure at big corporations, is somewhat fringe - most of us here, who still post threads about the design careers of MM, Helmut Lang, NG, Jil Sander (when she was in the wilderness), didn't let their quarrels with their respective CEOs affect our esteem for their status as fashion legends.

me neither, but i don't see how any of this proves my observations to be incorrect?

Business, art and creativity mostly exist in separate universe, many great artists never sold their works profitably in their lifetime and the reverse is also true - commercially successful designers and brands do not always command the same awe and respect, some of the biggest fashions businesses out there come to mind, from high-street to high-end.

true although i'm not quite sure what your exact point is anymore tbh..

In the end, critics' opinions matter little when the concepts, ideas and looks catch on like a virus. However, other than staunch (verbal) support from bloggers and twitters, I haven't noticed the looks by Slimane coveted and copied by the fashion crowd and in the streets, even after it was worn by Lady Gaga, the ultimate uber-celebrity.

well the actual runway looks aren't the easiest to emulate, and i'd like to think that's a good thing.. as for the rest of the collection, it isn't even in stores yet so perhaps a bit early to pass judgement on it's success? (i predict it will be a hit but let's wait until we're at least halfway in the new season..)

by the way i was passing by the grenelle store the other day and noticed it's in complete renovation with the new logo in place..

 

[Zazie]

Haha...maybe we misunderstood each other. Agreed, business has no business getting in the way of great art.

Would love to see some pics if HS had a hand in designing the look of the new Grenelle boutique

It's not to my taste but if stetson hats and p*ssy bows start sprouting in the streets, then it would seem HS had hit a home run.

Still, for all the so-called rivalry between RS at Dior and HS at YSL, the first big-name debut collection that moved me to tears was by Christophe Lemaire despite the lukewarm reviews. It never left me, and only when I visited Dubai's desert that it struck me - he has not only distilled the aristocratic DNA of Hermes, he had also brought to life a noble new creature that is entirely his, and I *long* to be *her*, with my seamless Mongolian cashmere coat, falcon, bow and arrows. He didn't manage to repeat that impact, unfortunately, for unknown reasons...

When we all wait with impatience a fashion show, we all hope to be entranced by it. I think deep inside we wish for the designer great success, an unforgettable collection that adds to fashion history, so hope to see Heidi Slimane deliver a coup de grace for all of us next Fall 2013/14.

 

[Izreal]

Would love to see some pics if HS had a hand in designing the look of the new Grenelle boutique

here is a pic i snapped outside:

a peak of what's to come inside:
http://www.ysl.fr/en_GB/stores

i still have a dream YSL will reacquire the St.Sulpice location (it breaks my heart and i've read hedi's too as to what it's become)

 

[Zazie]

here is a pic i snapped outside:

a peak of what's to come inside:
http://www.ysl.fr/en_GB/stores

i still have a dream YSL will reacquire the St.Sulpice location (it breaks my heart and i've read hedi's too as to what it's become)

Ooooh...black and white veined marble, gold and mirrors in strict reflecting, echoing geometry creating infinity....it's sleek as Tom Ford would only dream, beautiful work! Merci beaucoup for the head's up!

What I do like about HS is that for all the drama, he exhibits a deep desire to take YSL to a purer, higher place, so full marks for his commitment.

Yes, Rue St Sulpice is historic memory....but why did HS then move to LA? To me, it is inexplicable as a design move, even if Paris is too much baggage.

The LA touches, the hats, the bows, are very "Hollywood" type gestures, derivative meaning of the original, to me all obscured his YSL vision, they are an unattractive distraction, when purity lies in his heart, his desires, as reflected in the design of this boutique space.

 

[Izreal]

Yes, Rue St Sulpice is historic memory....but why did HS then move to LA? To me, it is inexplicable as a design move, even if Paris is too much baggage.

he moved to LA right after Dior to pursue photography, but i think you answered this question yourself earlier... to dissociate his artistic/creative work from the business & corporate side which would interfere with his daily work where he to be in the HQ.. i'm sure there are a bunch of other reasons, i don't see it as that big of a deal (he's regularly going back & forth really)

 

[Scott]

i thought that LA move was a bit bizarre myself. i mean if he wanted to stray from so-called baggage,do his photography,then why didn't he go to berlin,a city he has professed so much love for on numerous occasions? to me that makes his comments about celebs and hollywood all the more contrary since he moved right smack in the epicentre of something he claims he despises so....beverly hills. and evidently he will be designing primarily in LA not paris which has been a bit of point of contention between he and pierre.

 

[Zazie]

I do get LA's surreal charm, stretches of wasteland, pockets of rebellion, jaw-dropping luxury and hidden seclusion, where a celebrated person is the norm than the exception. But it is also a type of urban and emotional wilderness. It enters into the person through osmosis...sorry to say...

I much prefer San Francisco, though its once stunning and unparalleled greatness now exists mostly as memories you glimpse through the sharp Modernist vintage architecture, reminiscent of Le Corbusier and the Brutalists, even the theme-park remnants of Beat culture and of course Big Sur. If HS is interested in architecture, he really ought to pay SF a visit.

Scott, Berlin is special, with great clubbing, music, dj and design culture, etc. but the horrible depressing bits are there in the cold light of day, and outside of that stylish cocoon, ordinary Berliners can be rightwing, nasty and scary.

 

[Zazie]

oooh...no offense meant to any city, just personal opinions. Still searching for the right city, myself.

Anyways, my weekend begins soon, so hope you all have a good one!

A bientot!