Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

More commercial than his usual offerings. Troubles in paradise?

 

[gallianostan]

it's like three different collections fighting for prominence; safari couture, a grand ball chez charles james, oversized daywear...

and yet once again, something becomes increasingly clear with each outing - what any of this has to do with elsa schiaparelli is beyond me.

at least he pared down (mostly) the ridiculously ornate, sculptural theatrics and hackneyed gold embellishments. it was starting to look like a drag show.

overall, this was not good - but i was expecting as much.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

Ce n’est vraiment pas terrible…
Apart from the two Dior looks in the beginning and the velvet tuxedo jumpsuit, it’s quite…there.
Still contrived.
Velvet is his thing, humor isn’t and movement doesn’t seems to be either. I just expect something maybe more fun from Schiaparelli…

I’m sure they had a lot fun when they decided to put the tiger, the wolf and the lion’s heads but it doesn’t look fun…Rather scary.
I can definitely imagine Jocelyn wildenstein in those pieces tho.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

He's got a pretty insular view of what haute couture can be. And he doesn't have a lot of wit either.

No real tension, no real pushing of anything in a different way. His approach is about ornamentation and never really about actual dressing. Could argue that is very surrealist of him, but I'd rather not look at the body as an object to adorn...

 

[THD96]

I like the first three looks, the rest I can do without.
The moment I saw the gold face, I'm done. He needs to move on, there is a difference between having a signature and being a one-trick pony.

I find everything he does so superficial. Everything is so surface level, without much substance. The drama, the shocking factor seems just for social media, without much thought for the wearers.

I want him to create a couture collection that focuses on the essence of couture like the cut, the fabrics, and the techniques, and strip down all the decorative details that become quite gimmicky for him.

 

[perhydrol]

I wish there was an alternative universe where Jonathan Anderson or Glenn Martens design for Schiaparelli. Roseberry knows how to attract people to his vision, but at the same time his vision is, as already mentioned, incredibly limited and superficial. While this collection seems to be paired down, it still feels too heavy, especially with details such as that gigantic head from look 16 or animals' heads. It's also time to move on from the black and gold combo, it's getting more and more exhaustive. The real question is, however, whether we still need this kind of dusty surrealism.

 

[LadyJunon]

I wish there was an alternative universe where Jonathan Anderson or Glenn Martens design for Schiaparelli. Roseberry knows how to attract people to his vision, but at the same time his vision is, as already mentioned, incredibly limited and superficial. While this collection seems to be paired down, it still feels too heavy, especially with details such as that gigantic head from look 16 or animals' heads. It's also time to move on from the black and gold combo, it's getting more and more exhaustive. The real question is, however, whether we still need this kind of dusty surrealism.

That would be wonderful. Honestly, seeing Glenn at a demin brand is such a waste, considering how advanced his technical skills are. Other than Margiela and Theyskens, I haven't seen another designer that could effortlessly elevate the "DIY rag look".

 

[LadyJunon]

People in the comments are protesting the lives of silk and foam animals, because they are "too realistic".

 

[brandon J pierre]

its so shocking and not in a good way

 

[vogue28]

Daniel Roseberry's done it for me again I'm afraid - I am obsessed. A glorious way to open haute couture fashion week and loved watching the live stream and seeing the faces of everyone sat front row (including witnessing the absolute GENIUS of having Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu sit next to Carine Roitfeld).

There wasn't one single look I disliked or felt underwhelmed by. So many jaw-dropping details like the snake neckline on the jacket, the asymmetric bust on Abby Champion's dress and of course the ginormous divisive animal heads (Shalom Harlow's look immediately reminding of Glenn Close as Cruella de Vil). Also extremely fond of the two Christian Dior-esque looks which opened the show.

Might even go ahead and upload the 90+ detail photographs!

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Picked a random comment from instagram

"This fills me with so much rage and pain. I don’t understand how this can possible go through so many creative departments and make it this far. And we thought Balenciaga f*cked up. This is equally shameful. Please stop promoting animal cruelty. Stating NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED in capital letters is already admitting how tone deaf your ideas are."

I don't know how this could proliferate big-game hunting when everyone is already so obsessed with being the most moralistic person that could possibly exist on earth.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

This is my true Joker origin story I'm done there is now way

 

[RedSmokeRise]

^^ Those Instagram keyboard warriors can get lost. I love Shalom's look!

 

[LadyJunon]

Picked a random comment from instagram

"This fills me with so much rage and pain. I don’t understand how this can possible go through so many creative departments and make it this far. And we thought Balenciaga f*cked up. This is equally shameful. Please stop promoting animal cruelty. Stating NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED in capital letters is already admitting how tone deaf your ideas are."

I don't know how this could proliferate big-game hunting when everyone is already so obsessed with being the most moralistic person that could possibly exist on earth.

Did they really just compare a piece of silk covered foam to implied child sexual abuse?

The funniest/worst part of this is that these are the same people who cry that "fashion is no longer creative", while simultaneously forcing said designers and photographers to follow the average person's status-quo.