Simone Rocha S/S 2026 London

[Zorka]

vogue.com

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i'd say this is *not* the time to be making any clothing out of plastic of all things 🤷‍♀️

 

[tourbillions]

forget the plastic... is it nice? is it beautiful? will i wear it forever?

 

[Lola701]

It seems like after so many years, her work always feels a little bit flat to me.
It doesn’t feel like it’s evolving…Neither in terms of designs or presentation.
It seems like she is holding on her « young designer » title a bit too much. When are you growing up?!

 

[YohjiAddict]

I would go as far as to say that she is devolving, this collection looks like the work of one of her imitators…cheap, badly constructed and empty. She’s good when she adds a touch of perversion to her pretty, cupcake silhouettes, otherwise it looks like a 5-year-old dressed you with the contents of her costume box.

Am I the only one that suffers MGC flashbacks when he sees beige colored tulle?

 

[fruitdots]

It seems like after so many years, her work always feels a little bit flat to me.
It doesn’t feel like it’s evolving…Neither in terms of designs or presentation.
It seems like she is holding on her « young designer » title a bit too much. When are you growing up?!

I agree. And it's frustrating because she's obviously talented, she just desperately needs to edit. This collection seems to be joined together by embellishment & surface level details (plastic, flowers, laces, etc) even though there are some more interesting propositions about shape and silhouette (which never quite cohere). I wish she'd follow the latter to propositions to their limit, but it's exactly as you say—there's a youth or immaturity here preventing follow-through.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It seems like after so many years, her work always feels a little bit flat to me.
It doesn’t feel like it’s evolving…Neither in terms of designs or presentation.
It seems like she is holding on her « young designer » title a bit too much. When are you growing up?!

I thought the exact same thing. There’s this approach she has that really goes into infantile territory so it leaves me confused as to who this is actually for long term.

 

[jeanclaude]

Ewww...PVC!! I don´t get the "Demna-isms" I spot here...

 

[Alquimista]

She is talented with good ideas and execution but the little girl/child gimmick ruins it.

This dress is beautiful. Many beautiful pieces. The silver flapper dress is well done. Why hide them with pillows and such stuff?

 

[rockmuse1969]

Do not like any of it.

 

[jeremydante]

It seems like she is holding on her « young designer » title a bit too much. When are you growing up?!

This is exactly it. The work is not becoming sophisticated, I feel like I like her or the idea of her; so I give the designs a chance, but I am consistently underwhelmed. I did not like anything in this collection. It felt sloppy and all over the place.

If she was going for young, it didn't even feel fresh. It felt, like many other collections this season, under developed.

 

[bc collector]

The problem with SR, as with most designers in London (I don't want to be mean and say ALL of them) is that, yes, they show a distinctive look right from the start but it's usually just ONE look, that ends up being stretched too thin after a few seasons...On how many variations of this over-embellished, saccharine CDG silhouettes can Rocha sustain her business? Only look 50 shows some sort of maturity and evolution but that's pretty much it.
The myth of London as a cradle of unbridled creativity starts sounding more and more like a joke, and not a funny one either. LFW can't go on being propped up on pure hype, with designers that can secure the spotlight for three/four seasons max, before falling into oblivion altogether.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Maybe because of the mild CdG-isms I quite liked this one, specially the mens.
I appreciate that she can go for childhood references without being creepy.

I found London very interesting this season.

 

[jeanclaude]

The myth of London as a cradle of unbridled creativity starts sounding more and more like a joke, and not a funny one either. LFW can't go on being propped up on pure hype, with designers that can secure the spotlight for three/four seasons max, before falling into oblivion altogether.

That´s the "Central Saint Martins effect"...create smoke, show smoke; and then disappear (like smoke again).

 

[90sfan]

Ugh can’t with this fantasy dressing for 9 yr olds.

 

[tricotineacetat]

That´s the "Central Saint Martins effect"...create smoke, show smoke; and then disappear (like smoke again).

To be fair, Brexit, Covid and the decrease of multibrand retailers played a huge part as to why a lot of independent designers such as Preen, Chalayan or Peter Pilotto (among others) shuttered their businesses' - Not only in London but also among established independents like Narciso Rodriguez in New York.

In the spectrum of different styles and point of views, we suddenly have a huge spectrum wiped away while we have new players like Toteme or Khaite who were already very much build on the new reality post-Covid…