Small Details That Distinguish Luxury Fashion from High Street

[nationalsalt]

Aside from quality fabrics and tailoring, what are the little details you notice in luxury clothing that separate them from the pack?

Be it zippers, buttons, linings, hems, stitching types or other tricks that may go unnoticed to the casual observer, but which make a big difference to the quality of the item.

 

[philophile]

In skirts, for instance, I think that as fast fashion is all about saving material to the max, they skip waistbands. The latter makes a world of difference in terms of making a skirt look expensive. For the same reason, they are unable to achieve volumes or structure, that's why everything looks saggy or formless. Luxury clothing is all about the subtle details in achieving beautiful, flattering shapes.

Regarding fabrics, it's actually sad that nowadays it isn't rare that luxury clothing is made out of polyester. One of the most beautiful tops I own is by Khaite and even though I will admit the quality is amazing (the price not so much, it IS a criminally overpriced brand) and it's very, very structured, yet it is made out of polyester. For the price (€1,200) I expect pure wool or cotton. I've also often had issues with zippers in designer garments, so they are also saving in that.

 

[neogrotesque]

I think of the chain that gets sewn into the hems of Chanel coats/jackets and skirts to help them sit properly and not flap about in the wind. It's a pretty heavy chain too, not some cheap lightweight thing.

Another detail I remember seeing is a vintage skirt at Liberty's, I don't remember which designer it was but probably Balmain, but the hem had a strip of lace sewn onto it and then the lace was then whipstitched to the underside of the skirt. Usually hems get serged/bias bound and then simply folded up and sewn/blind hemmed.

Pattern matching- I don't mind mismatching so much on tiny patterns but stripes, checks, and large AOPs should match across center fronts and backs/back zippers. Nothing screams cheap like a misaligned stripe/check on the bum of a trouser. Extra attention to detail is when the pattern also matches across a pocket opening and across the inside pocket facing.

I once altered the sleeves on my Isabel Marant coat to be shorter and when I took the thing apart all the interior seams (including the lining seams) had been serged. Usually the interior seams on a jacket (esp the lining) don't need to be finished unless the fabric is prone to fraying (there's also an argument to be made that sometimes you can see the impression of the serging threads after ironing and you don't want that either) so I was impressed with the extra level of care that went into the coat, and the consideration that the garment might get altered.

And to tack onto the last point, it's more common in mens trousers (even cheap ones) than womens, but the extra wide seam allowance in the center back seams allows for alterations.

 

[Drusilla_]

neat buttonhole stitching.

specifically in terms of leather jackets - the hardware. The zippers of my somewhat higher-end leather jacket zip smoothly and don't warp, ever. Same with the colour of the zippers, buckles, grommets and snap fasteners - the metal hardware on my nicer jacket has a dull almost patinated finish, which helps it look more expensive than being shiny would.

I've noticed higher-end brands not bothering to match patterns across panels of cloth anymore, on some items.

 

[kasper!]

Corset for strapless evening gown.

This is the style you rarely see at high street fashion stores because the inserted corset is a bit complicated to make. Tom Ford and Versace have most experience pattern makers but I think there are some from those bridal brands.

 

[blueorchid]

Corset for strapless evening gown.

I mean, no one designs like this now, but I remember being so fascinated by the x-ray photos of the construction going on inside of Balenciaga's evening gowns.

 

[kasper!]

I saw Dolce & Gabbana and McQueen also had similar styles before (on Net-a-porter)

 

[jeanclaude]

I am going to add three here:

-Using fusible interface instead of sew-in interface (it gives a horrible cardboard look to the fabric; and it can cause a bubbly surface when the glue goes off).
-Not using facings (for example no facing on the neck area, with the lining directly attached to it...it looks soo cheap).
-Using bias ribbon instead of a facing, to finish an area (like armholes and neck area). Sloppy as hell!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ Bias ribbon only works when it's thin and also being used to finish something that also happens to be on the bias. Rarely use it on necklines though, way nicer in armholes, especially when using it as a stretch stabiliser.

Edge-to-edge lining (no facings) is bit of a cop out (speaking from personal experience; sometimes you just get tired and lazy). But one thing that pisses me off the most though is if something is lined, its been made with a lining that is too tight or overly tacked to the outer shell so it constantly feels tight. The other thing though is when people think a lining/series of facings immediately makes something high quality, when really all they needed to do was french seam and roll hem. Sometimes less pieces makes for less work spent on pointless steps and more time spent on better techniques.

A fabulous couture finish I wish there were more of is concealed button stands. Can be a cheap option too if you're struggling to find nice enough buttons to stand out on their own.

Overly stiff shapewell/shapeform in strapless garments... Not just the fusible but sew in stuff, and when it is the cheap and stiff as hell version it does NOTHING for the garment. Horsehair to cotton interlinings all the way, with mid weight cotton shapewell kept on hand for when it is needed.

 

[jeanclaude]

^ Bias ribbon only works when it's thin and also being used to finish something that also happens to be on the bias. Rarely use it on necklines though, way nicer in armholes, especially when using it as a stretch stabiliser.

Edge-to-edge lining (no facings) is bit of a cop out (speaking from personal experience; sometimes you just get tired and lazy). But one thing that pisses me off the most though is if something is lined, its been made with a lining that is too tight or overly tacked to the outer shell so it constantly feels tight. The other thing though is when people think a lining/series of facings immediately makes something high quality, when really all they needed to do was french seam and roll hem. Sometimes less pieces makes for less work spent on pointless steps and more time spent on better techniques.

Here is an example of a deplorable bias finish on the edges of an expensive Raf Simons jacket (sloppy work fast-fashion level )

And another example of a Prada top also with bias ribbon (I hate the sloppiness of it). Also, I love facings because they help preserve the shape and stabilize and area (and of course, it looks cleaner )

And about placing the lining without facings, something that I don´t like is the fact that if the lining gets ripped...the outer shell could be compromised (and of course the inside looks like hell). Here a Helmut Lang bulletproof vest (look at that crooked and poorly stitched neck area )


PS. I love looking for defects on high-end garments!! 🧐

sources: 1stdibs, vestiare collective and yoox

 

[fashionista-ta]

Something that really stands out to me is amazing draping. It's rare to see even among designer things, and comes down to the skill of the designer. I also appreciate hidden details that no one will ever see but you. I think I made a thread somewhere documenting some of these in Alber's Lanvin.

 

[jeanclaude]

Something that really stands out to me is amazing draping. It's rare to see even among designer things, and comes down to the skill of the designer. I also appreciate hidden details that no one will ever see but you. I think I made a thread somewhere documenting some of these in Alber's Lanvin.

What´s the name of the thread? I´d love to see those details...

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Here you go! A Retrospective: Lanvin under Alber Elbaz (2001-2015) See post 15.

 

[jeanclaude]

^ Here you go! A Retrospective: Lanvin under Alber Elbaz (2001-2015) See post 15.

Thank you very much! ;-)

 

[GoldenPetals]

This is a wonderful thread. I've always wanted a guide to help me judge a garment's value, for someone who's not a professional. Maybe we could even compile the most important things to check when buying luxury clothing into a guide.

 

[avonlea002]

Tell them AI queen

 

[Creative]

The hem of very light dresses… it has to be very thin and done like if it was an Hermès scarf. The reality is that some brands do normal hems and it looks beyond cheap💀

 

[jeanclaude]

The hem of very light dresses… it has to be very thin and done like if it was an Hermès scarf. The reality is that some brands do normal hems and it looks beyond cheap💀

Or they just cut it raw...and then they say it´s "deconstructed"...yeah, right!

 

[Norden]

I used to own so much Raf simons, and it was criminally badly made, especially when you compared it to his work at jil. I’ve had things falling apart, seams bursting (that weird 09 collection with all the neoprene broke down) and fabrics disintegrating. That’s why I always enjoyed Hedis work, i couldn’t destroy it.

If I look how fashion brands define quality these days, it’s with a certain stiffness. Everything feels very stiff and looks amazing on a hanger. These days I’m only looking at fabric and finishing, natural fibers, high end zippers and simple sturdy finishing. Nothing complicated, but a rarity these days.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ That's criminal to charge designer prices for untested materials ...