Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture F/W 2025.26 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[Salvatore]

I kind of liked it for a change. Quite architectural and sculptural, but still some fluidity. Nice.

 

[Kanzai]

OG Issey Miyake on the moodboard LOL.

 

[Phuel]

It’s very Japanese-influenced: The color-palette; the geometric, minimalist silhouette and bold, statement embroidery… but the shape of the headpieces are very Chinese… Awkward, since the historical tension between Japan and China (and Korea) hasn’t fully healed. Unfortunate that some parts are kind of inexcusably sloppy for someone who should know better: The exposed zipper pull; not too polished sculptural cowls of some dresses that resemble hot glue gun execution; some of the models moving awkwardly; a lot of the material look budget, especially the red; and most unforgivable of all, that strip of dangling head ornament just drags the aesthetic down too much amateur hour, sadly.

Had this been offered 15 years ago— even flawlessly executed with materials spun by the gods, with its brand of dated couturey tropes as imagined by a graduating student, would have been scoffed at for being too sparse and too lacking in design and technical innovation. But in 2025, amongst the influx of pageant-level Carnival costume designers allowed to show at Paris Haute Couture— for reasons, it’s just… ok (enough).

Really wanted to like this.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I enjoyed this one a lot.

How to pay tribute to arguably the greatest French composer of the xxth century on his 150th birthday?

(I loved the trombone bit, by the way, with the soft rallentando.)

It was spectacular, the music gave a majestuous pace and a sense of intrigue.
At the climax, Nieves solved the tiny inconvenience like a pro, with infinite charm and a soft smile.

The grandeur of this show is at the opposite of the labyrinthine and hermetic corridors of Armani Privé, but both give meaning and sense to the Haute Couture week.

 

[Creative]

His style is so corny and demodé... I can't.

 

[jeanclaude]

Reminds me of Thierry Mugler very late 90s/early 00s collections, when he was in total decadence.

 

[DK92]

@vogue28, Do you have the photos?

 

[reese06]

I did not enjoy this at all tbh.

Very tacky and crafty at times. Volume for volume sake is the k, but it has to be done well. The setting of this show made it worse. Something intimate would serve him well but everything just seems big and over the top

 

[vogue28]

@DK92



STEPHANEROLLAND.COM

 

[DK92]

@DK92

Thank u!

 

[Lola701]

The daywear is refreshing…

Reminds me of Thierry Mugler very late 90s/early 00s collections, when he was in total decadence.

It’s actually very reminiscent of what he used to do at Scherrer.
What he is doing at his own brand is like a dramatic, bling bling, technical pumped up version of what he used to do at Scherrer.

Scherrer had more classicism and slightly more impressive in terms of technique and range.

 

[Norden]

I can see the potential and intention behind many things, but there’s something failing here in the range and fabrication. I wonder if shown in this format was the best decision, all flaws seem amplified. I also felt like we could see coco Rocha walk out any moment, it’s a bit camp.

 

[jeanclaude]

The daywear is refreshing…

It’s actually very reminiscent of what he used to do at Scherrer.
What he is doing at his own brand is like a dramatic, bling bling, technical pumped up version of what he used to do at Scherrer.

Scherrer had more classicism and slightly more impressive in terms of technique and range.

The only thing I like about Rolland is the fact that he chose 90s Spanish model Nieves Álvarez as his muse. But it´s sad to behold her being dressed in so many fabric monstrosities every new collection he launches.