Stella Mccartney Spring Summer 2005

[AlexN]

Just terrible. Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy...

 

[mikeijames]

Originally posted by kimair@Oct 7 2004, 04:58 PM
to what we see this season. it's just not coherent; there's no flow from season to season.

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i actually think that stella has always had an obsession with the volume and off-beat cool. i think the trend just caught up to her. i've seen it season after season...

 

[Lena]

this is plain ugly, shapeless without a concept
and totaly boooring,
looks like Max Mara on pills

 

[jessa010]

I think I'm one of the only posters on this board that like her ~ I think this line is just a continuation of what she did for spring 2004 which I really loved. I just like the concept that everything is breezy, light and easy. These are clothes that look better in motion than in a still shot. Though there were a few outfits (2 of them were on Gemma) that were very off-putting for me, I generally would wear a lot of it.

 

[kimair]

well WWD thought it was one of the best collections of her career:

Balmy summer beach days, a golden sky and the gentle sway of palm trees. That was the setting depicted on Stella McCartney’s invitation, an image that came into lovely focus at her show on Wednesday.

Given Gucci Group’s current period of self-evaluation, this was the perfect time for McCartney to come up with one of the best collections of her career, especially since Robert Polet and François-Henri Pinault both settled into front-row seats, where they must have been plenty pleased with the view.

McCartney celebrated the gentle side of casual with clothes that hinted at boho without turning exclusionary. All kinds of cool girls should cotton to Stella’s cottons, washed silks and tribal prints. Reason one: It’s not often that pretty looks so darned comfortable, as if Grandma’s old housedresses suddenly morphed into hipster je ne sais quoi. Stella does love a dress, bunched and gathered seemingly at random, sometimes in flower child-esque, floor-sweeping proportions; at others, in sexy tunic mode. One such number, a chopped-off pale aqua caftan with silver streaks, would even befit a latter-day La Liz on holiday. But tailoring also has its place in any McCartney collection, and she tossed short, squarish jackets on over dresses or equally breezy pants and shirts, with rolled hems or ankle ties, as well as some high-steam swimsuits.

McCartney worked a pleasant counterpoint throughout — a trench dolled up with poufed sleeves; the cheery pairing of lingerie trims and athletic drawstrings. And if occasionally her big, weightless shapes crossed the line to sloppy, more often they looked utterly charming.

 

[kimair]

and Style.com was also lavish in praise:

Every now and again, a fashion mood emerges that should work particularly well for certain designers. Sometimes, they hit their stride and get it right during that period; sometimes, they don't. Stella McCartney's spring collection put her firmly into the former. She took what has been slowly emerging in Milan and Paris—pastoral, romantic dressing, and a sharper, speedier sportswear aesthetic—and spliced them together. It's not that she hasn't tried to do this before, but this season it just all came together. Better still, she hit on some of the other key trends—safari jackets; slouchy, straight-cut cuffed pants; and breezy, billowing dresses—and effortlessly made them her own.

McCartney is most convincing when it looks like the clothes belong in her world, not to mention her closet. Previous seasons have featured pieces that were a little too tricky for their own good: If you can't imagine her wearing it, then it's not going to fly. But this time round, McCartney played to her strengths: A smidge of vintage (floaty floral chiffon dresses), a touch of lingerie (camisoles and bras used to good effect layered underneath tops or dresses), pretty tailoring (shrunken jackets over those loose pants). And she made the strongest case for tiered gypsy skirts, letting them swoosh along the runway in white cotton muslin, as delicate as Edwardian underwear.

– Mark Holgate

 

[wyatt.]

a lot of it seems like it is just an extension of the chloe show from last season is slightly deluted colors.


i think stella really needs to evaluate what the line is.

 

[Lena]

she either bribed the journalists,
or Gucci Group bribed the journalists ,
or they are plain feeling sorry for her and try to cheer her up ...

i can t believe those reviews..
thanks for posting them Kimair

 

[fashionaddict1]

I heard that Suzy in 'The Hearld Tribune' didn't though review it so kindly, and as she has the possible the most influence . . .

Any one got the review, I'd love to read it

 

[Lena]

here you go

from iht

With sun-soaked Bo Derek-style models on the runway and Dudley Moore's voice from the soundtrack of the movie "10," was Stella McCartney fishing for that perfect score for her summer 2005 collection?
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The jury consisted of her buddy, Gwyneth Paltrow (a guaranteed 10), Giancarlo Giammetti from Valentino (10 by designer solidarity), the media mogul Harvey Weinstein (10 because he wants McCartney to costume a movie) and the entire phalanx of the parent company Pinault Printemps Redoute: François-Henri Pinault, Serge Weinberg and the new CEO, Robert Polet.
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Does Polet think that McCartney's puffy cumulus of coats, blouses and skirts mean that the designer has a bright future?
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"I am convinced she has," Polet said.
.
McCartney could not get a top score from the fashion pros for Thursday's show (too many soggy swimsuits rising thong-high at the rear). But she showed how well she could pump up the volume that is both an important trend for the season and crucial if her line is to develop an identity beyond her own.
.
Of course, the light white dresses, perhaps with macramé at the neckline or the billowing folds caught in a soft sash at the hips, were designed in her own image and with the cultural memories of a 1970s childhood. But McCartney caught the vibe with the full-layered skirts, a few soft low-crotch pants or trousers with frills at the ankle. Smart too were the tiny mess jackets, their tails swinging and their rows of buttons evidently only for decoration. (Jackets too small to close are also a current trend.)
.
In her urge to move away from body exposure (give or take a wayward nipple), the designer was not always so successful, as sturdy bras met chiffon drapes and a printed beach coat looked more like a housekeeper's bathrobe. But one of the bonuses of being a female designer is to project reality on the runway. And within a small parameter of pretty vacation clothes, McCartney did fine.
.
"And I wasn't even on the beach this summer - I was wishing I was on holiday," she said.

 

[fashionaddict1]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 9 2004, 11:37 AM
here you go

from iht

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Thankyou Lena - well the reviews not too bad really

 

[Lena]

not too good either hehehe

 

[fashionaddict1]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 9 2004, 01:10 PM
not too good either hehehe

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Thats very true!

Quite like the hair and make, the clothes are ok, the thing with Stella for me is that I don't really know what her angle is? To me its just clothes

I can't think of another designer ever who launched in the way Stella did, massive show, fragrance, stores and advertising - it set her up for criticism as it seemed arrogrant, every other designer has to struggle for a while and prove their talent

I think she should have never showed in Paris, her collections shown in London or NY would probably be fine

 

[stylegurrl]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 9 2004, 01:55 AM
she either bribed the journalists,
or Gucci Group bribed the journalists ,
or they are plain feeling sorry for her and try to cheer her up ...

i can t believe those reviews..
thanks for posting them Kimair

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I couldn't agree more. It amazes me how journalists and editors alike bend over backwards to protect her career and reputation. I have not seen this done for any other designer. I think she may have also chosen this time to announce her pregnancy hoping that it wouls delfect any negative reviews.

 

[Lena]

you are absolutely right regarding Stella.. she could do better in London or NY but see.. she's STELLA the star (or so she thinks)

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by LibertyRose@Oct 7 2004, 09:02 PM
Excuse my language, but this is crap!!! Expensive, "organic" potato sacks, lol (well put softgrey).

But off the runway, she still wears her clothes incredibly well, sigh.

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i know...why is there such a disconnect between how she dresses and how she designs?...
that's a sure sign of trouble... a designer who is not in touch with her own designs...
not good...

 

[vivadixie]

Why would they need to bend over backwards to protect her for? It's not like she's had such positive reviews in the past (other than for s/s04 I think) - her very first show for Gucci was universally panned. Just because you don't like a collection doesn't mean that other people can't like it. I watched the video and I doubt Anna Piaggi would bother trying to protect anyone. I mean fair enough if you don't like the clothes but some of these comments are uncalled for...

I liked this collection (especially the blue bag Michelle Buswell had) other than the swimwear and the dressing gown dress Gemma wore.

On another topic Dita von Teese looked great front row.

 

[vivadixie]

Originally posted by softgrey@Oct 9 2004, 07:47 PM


i know...why is there such a disconnect between how she dresses and how she designs?...
that's a sure sign of trouble... a designer who is not in touch with her own designs...
not good...

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She wears what she designs though? She's like a walking ad for her label...

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by vivadixie@Oct 9 2004, 08:19 PM
She wears what she designs though? She's like a walking ad for her label...

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hi there vivadixie...welcome to tfs...
thx for the photo...

i know what you mean...she wears her own clothes...
but somehow the stuff doesn't really translate to the runway...

maybe she was making potato sacks because she's pregnant?... i don't know...
but it never seems to look as good anywhere as it does on her...
i don't think she knows who her customer is...

 

[stylegurrl]

Originally posted by vivadixie@Oct 9 2004, 08:13 PM
Why would they need to bend over backwards to protect her for? It's not like she's had such positive reviews in the past (other than for s/s04 I think) - her very first show for Gucci was universally panned. Just because you don't like a collection doesn't mean that other people can't like it. I watched the video and I doubt Anna Piaggi would bother trying to protect anyone. I mean fair enough if you don't like the clothes but some of these comments are uncalled for...

I liked this collection (especially the blue bag Michelle Buswell had) other than the swimwear and the dressing gown dress Gemma wore.

On another topic Dita von Teese looked great front row.

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My comment was not only related to this current collection but to the way she is treated in general. I don't know of any other designers that have been given three stores and a perfume in little over a year. As someone else said, others have to earn that over time. Not only that, this was done despite the fact that her first collection was panned and her sales figures have been less than stellar. Her bosses have lied about her sales figures recently as well. There are other examples.