The Business of Magazines

[_rumc_]

A lot of talk about 'inappropriate value packs' but not much being said by Mr Quinn about the cut-price tokens that Conde Nast runs in the Daily Mail to boost sales figures of issues about to be pulled from the shelves, knocked down to a price of £1.

Agree. The whole letter is quite unprofessional. And if they feel so threatened by Bazaar, maybe they should work on their own magazine's quality, not attack the competitor

 

[MissMagAddict]

source | fashionista.com

Every Issue of Self Service will be available during LFW.
Ezra Petronio and Suzanne Koller launched the bi-annual magazine fifteen years ago and now, with the help of Idea Books, they’re offering their archives to the public. The issues are priced on availability, starting at around $78 and going up to almost $400 for a copy of the Chloe Sevigny-covered Issue Two. They’ll also have copies of signed prints from Terry Richardson and David Sims on hand. The exhibition/pop-up shop runs in the front room at St Martins Lane Hotel, 45 St Martins Lane Hotel, London from February 18th through the 25th from 11am to 7pm.

 

[tigerrouge]

The UK ABCs are out - and another Conde Nast person bangs on about those value packs, as if they've all been issued with some official press release on the subject (mediaweek.co.uk

Glamour stays at the top of women's glossies despite drop in circulation

11 February 2010

Glamour retained its lead in the women's glossy market, despite a 5.9% yearly drop in circulation, according to the latest ABC figures for July - December 2009. The handbag-sized Conde Nast title sold 515,281 copies and also saw a slight dip in circulation for the period of 2.1%.

New entry in the women’s lifestyle market, Shortlist’s free weekly Stylist (launched on 7 October last year) became the fifth highest circulating title, with a circulation of 410,674 with its first ABC figure. The figure is higher than Stylist’s forecast circulation figure of 400,000.

NatMag's Cosmopolitan, the second best-selling title, took a hit in sales, seeing a drop of 4.5% year on year to sell 430,353, for the period July to December 2009.

Good Housekeeping saw 4.9% rise on the period and 1.1% increase on the year, shifting 430,089 copies, just behind its sister title.

The biggest riser in the women’s monthlies sector was IPC’s Essentials magazine, which achieved a 13.9% rise on the year to 112,135 copies.

Also in the IPC stable, Woman & Home, which targets women in their forties, put in a positive performance with a 4.3% yearly rise and up 5.2% on the period to sell 368,388 copies.

Marie Claire, the IPC title which saw a relaunch last year under new editor Trish Halpin, recorded an 8.1% yearly fall, but had only a slight dip on the period of 0.8% to sell 283,025 copies.

Bauer Media’s weekly glossy Grazia saw a slight rise year on year of 1.1% to 229,732. Sister title More! continued to boost its sales, with a 6.4% rise on the year.

NatMag’s She was the biggest loser year on year dropping 9.1% to 150, 074 copies.

Hachette’s Psychologies magazine, under new editor Louise Chunn, recorded a yearly drop of 6.8% to 130,860 but saw a slight rise 0.2% on the period, and Conde Nast’s Easy Living also saw a dip of 8.1% to 170,033.

Conde Nast fashion title Vogue, though flat on the period, recorded a 4.5% dip year on year to 210,526. Rival NatMag’s Harper’s Bazaar saw a 1.1% rise on the year, selling 110,638 copies.

Vanessa Clifford, managing partner, Mindshare, said: There is nothing too depressing in the results and the market looks like its showing a little more stability. But there has been a reasonable amount of price promotion and looking behind the figures is becoming more and more important.

Simon Kippin, publishing director of Glamour said: There is no doubt that the last six months of 2009 continued to be a challenge on the high street. The recession has had an effect on most businesses, but we are delighted that Glamour has demonstrated resilience, only showing a marginal decline in overall circulation period on period."

Kippen added: "Glamour strongly remains the number one bestseller in the UK without relying on heavily discounted bargain pack promotions with two more discounted copies that other publishers have indulged in."

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Glad to see UK HB at least had some sort of rise.

 

[tigerrouge]

And info about some titles that didn't make it into the article above (guardian.co.uk

Hachette Filipacchi's Elle remained under 200,000, selling 195,455 copies on average a month, also steady year on year.

Condé Nast's Vanity Fair was up 1.2% year on year to 102,421, while sister title Tatler was steady compared with the second half of 2008 at 86,345.

And some news about the men's magazine sector:

Men's Health held on to its number one position in the men's paid-for consumer magazine sector, stretching its lead over second-placed FHM to nearly 20,000 copies in the second half of 2009.

The NatMag Rodale fitness title, which in the first half of last year dislodged Bauer Media's FHM from the top spot after 13 years, had an average circulation of 250,577 in the second half of 2009, marginally up both on the previous six month period and year on year.

The lads' weeklies Zoo and Nuts suffered the biggest year-on-year declines for the second successive ABC period. IPC's Nuts retained third spot among the paid-for titles, despite a 24.4% decline to 176,835, down 6.2% on the previous six months. Bauer Media's Zoo was down 29.9% year on year and 8.1% on the previous six months to 102,043.

Condé Nast's GQ remains in third place among the men's monthly titles, down 7.7% year on year but flat on the previous six months, to 120,057. Its Condé Nast sister title, Wired UK, debuted with an average circulation of 48,275.

 

[MissMagAddict]

source | wwd.com

CIAO, ANNA!: The Italian fashion world is getting testy with Anna Wintour. Editorials and articles in Italian newspapers have lambasted the Vogue editor in chief, blaming her for insisting the Milan fashion shows squeeze to three days this season from their usual five. The shows, which begin Feb. 25 with Prada, Fendi and a few others, end on Feb. 28.

Corriere della Sera last Friday reported that “[…]Letizia Moratti, mayor of Milan, sent a message to the editor in chief of Vogue America, Anna Wintour: ‘Nobody, not even if her name is Anna Wintour, can take the liberty to do and undo our fashion calendar. For this reason, we must all work united.’ Addressing fashion designers, the mayor said: ‘I think Milan’s fashion should show its pride.’”

A day earlier, Il Sole 24 Ore went even further, writing that “[…] Wintour has been imposing her diktats on the dates of the Milan runway shows for years. […] Made in Italy fashion is a stronger industry than that of its French and American competitors, but when faced by Wintour’s bob and huge sunglasses it transforms itself into Cinderella” — obviously meaning the one sweeping the floor and not the princess sweeping through the ballroom just before midnight.

Giorgio Armani, Anna Molinari, Tod’s Diego Della Valle and Krizia’s Mariuccia Mandelli were among those voicing concern that a shorter show week would reduce the strength of the Italian fashion industry. The show calendar also was the main topic during a press conference held Tuesday by Italy’s Chamber of Fashion, as Mario Boselli, head of the association, said that, based on the reaction of the industry this season, he could “guarantee” the calendar “will be different in September,” with at least five days. Shows currently are slated to run Sept. 22 to 29.

While the press has blamed Wintour, Boselli said it was “the designers’ responsibility to acknowledge their strength” and not cave in to outside pressure. “Especially in this economy, it is too costly to work in a state of constant emergency,” said Boselli, citing a total of 184 collections, of which 87 are runway shows for 78 brands, with 18 shows on the third day alone. According to the Chamber, the fashion industry’s 2009 sales fell an estimated 15 percent to 56.5 billion euros, or $78.5 billion, compared with 66.4 billion euros, or $97.6 billion, in 2008. Dollar figures were converted at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer.

And what does Wintour have to say about all the hubbub? “I am very much looking forward to going to Italy, as always,” she told WWD.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Haha all this fuss, and feather flying all over the place, and she gives that reply? Oh Anna i love you.

 

[montrealm]

Well established designers shouldnt be afraid, seriously.

 

[iluvjeisa]

Weird. How could anyone ever think reducing the number of days of MFW would enhance its impact...obviously, this is just another way of saying Prada is what matters, and nothing else

 

[MissMagAddict]

source | wwd.com

ANNA’S HONOR: Anna Wintour has been elected to the American Society of Magazine Editors Hall of Fame and will be honored at the National Magazine Awards on April 22.

 

[mishahoi]

who else is on the list? I would imagine Anna would have been on there a while ago.... never heard of such a society before to be honest! Of course, I`m not in America...

 

[Pedro]

VOGUE ITALIA ONLINE launched today!

Vogue Italia online. La novità non consiste certo nel creare un sito che hanno già, per altro, in molti, ma nell'aprire le porte di Vogue, nell'accogliere tutti in questo mondo diverso, stravagante, unico, creativo.
 Da 45 anni Vogue Italia va in edicola con le sue pagine patinate, le sue foto meravigliose realizzate dai più grandi fotografi. Sono colpi d'occhio speciali, a volte estremi, ma sempre e solo unici: scatti che suscitano ammirazione o stupore e che fanno comunque sempre discutere e danno emozioni.

Vogue parla di moda, di arte, di musica, di cinema, di viaggi, di bellezza, di donne e di case.
 Vogue racconta i mondi diversi che si racchiudono tutti nello stesso mondo: quello di Vogue. E questo mondo oggi si anima, si muove, vive. Dalla visione di foto si passa al video, a filmati veri e propri.

Si partecipa così, come in un film, al backstage, alla costruzione cioè di un servizio di moda: che cosa fa la modella, come posa, come la truccano, la pettinano, come il fotografo crea un'immagine.
 La poesia rimane, il fascino di quel clic non si perde, anzi si condividono momenti, emozioni impossibili da spiegare in un unico scatto. E il giornale vive.


Al semplice passaggio del mouse sull'immagine scelta, si assiste alle sfilate come seduti in prima fila, grazie all'ingrandimento di ogni singola uscita in passerella. Si può seguire la preparazione delle modelle o addirittura il processo creativo dello stilista nel realizzare una sfilata. E quelli che vanno alle sfilate come si vestono? Chi sono? E chi sono i truccatori e i loro trucchi? E i capelli come andranno di moda?

E, se di bellezza si parla, quali sono le ultime creme e gli ultimi fard o rossetti? E quali sono le cure di oggi? E ancora, quale ginnastica o massaggio? E le spa? E botox si o no?
Chi crea le tendenze e dove trovarle? Ogni giorno un'idea, ogni giorno un look da sogno e da acquistare. Possibilità ce ne sono per tutti basta cliccare nel canale Trends su +glam-cash e troverete completi trendy a meno di 300 euro.

Chi sono i giovani talenti e da dove arrivano?
 Quali le scuole? Quali i concorsi? Come farsi conoscere e trovare lavoro? Vogue Talents è un canale dedicato a mettere in contatto nuovi creativi con aziende e stilisti affermati. Vogue Talents è una nuova piattaforma aperta a tutti gli aspiranti stilisti, a chi fa video o a giovani fotografi: qui possono far conoscere il loro lavoro. Vi faremo vedere anche storie di talenti che ce l'hanno fatta e hanno raggiunto il successo.


Se di successo si parla, si pensa alle stars. In foto e in video storie di cantanti, attrici, socialites che ci accolgono nelle loro case o nei backstage fotografici. E chi sono le voguistas e le voguette? Sono belle e interessanti e stravaganti! Cliccate per scoprirlo nel canale Stars.


Non tutte hanno una taglia perfetta? C'è Vogue Curvy.

Vogue.it è il primo sito ad avere un canale dove si scopre che la taglia "16" rende più felici della taglia "0" e dove avere delle curve è sinonimo di sexy e self-confidence.
 Testimonianze di modelle o stars che hanno raggiunto il successo e che sono simbolo di stile raccontano come vestirsi di moda senza rinunciare a nessun look della stagione, nonostante la taglia. Blogger curvy da tutto il mondo vi porteranno in giro a far shopping e vi daranno quotidianamente dei consigli!


Perché le modelle black sono in numero decisamente inferiore a quelle dell'Est? Una domanda a cui Vogue Italia ha risposto nel luglio 2008 lanciando una sfida con un numero interamente black.
 Oggi Vogue Italia è ancora una volta il primo ad aprire un canale dedicato alle bellezze black, per valorizzare il loro mondo, le loro icone, le loro modelle. 
A Vogue Black, parlando di novità fashion e affrontando anche temi sociali di cui si discute oggi, partecipano blogger da ogni parte del mondo. Tyra Banks è la nostra inviata speciale dall'America e con la sua trasmissione tv The Tyra Show, che va in onda sul CW Network, e il suo sito, sarà il nostro link USA.


Vogue.it è un mondo in evoluzione dove ogni giorno vengono rilasciati nei vari canali circa 40 contenuti. Ogni giorno vi accompagnerò personalmente alla scoperta delle notizie più importanti o più nuove o semplicemente più divertenti.


Benvenuti nel mondo di Vogue.it!
Franca Sozzani

Pubblicato:
21 febbraio 2010

Google Translation:

Vogue Italy online. The novelty is not certain to create a site that already have, moreover, in many, but opening the doors of Vogue, in welcoming everyone in this world different, extravagant, unique, creative way. 
 Vogue Italy goes for 45 years to newsstands with its glossy pages, his beautiful photos made by top photographers. They glance special, sometimes extreme, but always and only unique: shots that arouse admiration or surprise and they do always discuss and give emotions.

Vogue comes to fashion, art, music, movies, travel, beauty, women, and homes. 
 Vogue tells the different worlds that contain all the same world: that of Vogue. And this world today is soul, if he lives. From viewing photos you switch to video, movies themselves.

You join the case, as in a film, the backstage, building a service that is out of fashion: what makes a model like pose, like makeup, comb, as the photographer creates an image. 
 The poem remains, the charm of that click is not lost, and indeed we share moments, emotions are impossible to explain in a single click. And the newspaper alive.


To simply move your mouse over the image selected, you will attend the parade as sitting in the front row, with magnification of each exit on the catwalk. You can follow the preparation of models or even the creative process of the designer in creating a fashion show. And those who go to shows how they dress? Who are they? And who are the makeup artists and their tricks? And the hair will go like fashion?

And if we talk of beauty, which is the last and the last cream blusher or lipstick? And what are the treatments of today? And again, as exercise or massage? And the spa? And botox or not?
Who sets the trends and where to find them? Every day an idea, every day a dream and look to buy. There are opportunities for everyone in the channel just click on Trends + glam-cash and you will find complete trendy, less than 300 euros.

Who are the young talents and where it arrive? 
 What schools? Such contests? How to get to know and find work? Vogue Talents is a channel dedicated to bringing together creative with new businesses and established designers. Vogue Talents is a new open platform for all aspiring designers, who does video or young photographers here can make known their work. We'll also see stories of talents that have made it and have achieved success.


If we speak of success, we think about the stars. In photo and video stories of singers, actresses, socialites welcoming us into their homes or in the backstage photo. And who are the voguistas and voguette? They are beautiful and interesting and quirky! Click to find out the channel Stars.


Not everyone has a perfect size? There Curvy Vogue. 

Vogue.it is the first site to have a channel where you find that a size "16" makes it the happiest of size "0" and where to have the curves is synonymous with sexy and self-confidence. 
 Evidence of models and stars who have reached success and are a symbol of style, tell how to dress in fashion without giving up any look of the season, despite the size. Blogger curvy all over the world get you around to shopping and give you daily advice!


Because the models are black in number considerably lower than the East? A question answered in Vogue Italy July 2008 by launching a challenge with an issue entirely black. 
 Today Vogue Italy is once again the first to open a channel dedicated to black beauties, to enhance their world, their icons, their models. A Vogue Black, speaking of new fashion and also tackling social issues under discussion today, participating bloggers from around the world. Tyra Banks is our special correspondent from America and its TV broadcast "The Tyra Show, which airs on the CW Network, and its site, our link will be U.S..


Vogue.it is a changing world where every day they are released into various channels about 40 content. Every day I will accompany you personally to discover the most important news or more new or simply more fun.


Welcome to the world of Vogue.it!
Franca Sozzani

Issued:
February 21, 2010

VOGUE.IT

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Thanks for posting, was waiting for this, the site looks fantastic.

 

[Pedro]

^You're welcome!
It's the best Vogue/Condé Nast website. The Cover Story and Magazine/Fashion Stories sections are remarkable!

Additionally you have access to the full February L'Uomo Vogue issue.

 

[tigerrouge]

who else is on the list? I would imagine Anna would have been on there a while ago....

Hugh Hefner... that's not unexpected. Gloria Steinem... feminist titan. Tina Brown, Helen Gurley Brown... both were impressive at the height of their powers. Then you reach the name 'Martha Stewart' on the list of ASME honorees and you have to wonder what kind of cakes she was baking to get on that list before Anna Wintour. Martha Stewart has a business empire, and someone that busy doesn't spend ten hours a day editing a magazine.

 

[kasper!]

Currently I'm looking for more information about American Elle magazine(late 80's and early 90's).Who was the editor-in-chief?And art director(or should I say creative director?forgive my little knowledge on the difference between these two job titles. )...

 

[MissMagAddict]

Currently I'm looking for more information about American Elle magazine(late 80's and early 90's).Who was the editor-in-chief?And art director(or should I say creative director?forgive my little knowledge on the difference between these two job titles. )...

Editor-in-Chiefs: 1. Karen Anderegg, 2. Catherine Ettlinger 3. Elaina Richardson
Creative Director: Gilles Bensimon

 

[MissMagAddict]

source | wwd.com

DOUBLE DUTCH: Look who’s a cover girl — Celine’s creative director, Phoebe Philo, gets the honors for the launch issue of The Gentlewoman, the sister magazine to Dutch title Fantastic Man that hits newsstands on March 22. Inside is a profile of Philo and a shoot styled by Camilla Nickerson with the designer posing in her own clothes and both vintage and current Celine looks. “It’s about modernity and women that are just fantastic,” said Penny Martin, the biannual magazine’s editor in chief. “Phoebe was very candid about herself, her mother and silhouette and inspirations.” The 148-page launch issue also features a profile on American artist Jenny Holzer, with portraits of the artist taken by Wolfgang Tillmans. There are also feature articles on DJ Princess Julia, open water swimmer Lynne Cox, winemaker Sara Perez and Kazuyo Sejima, the Japanese architect and the first woman to be appointed as director of the architecture sector for the Venice Biennale.

Contributors in the issue include design critic Alice Rawsthorn, fashion designer Louise Gray and model Daisy Lowe. Martin is aiming to showcase female photographers, too. Alexandra Catiere snapped the fine jewelry section with male models clasping a myriad of fine jewels.

With the backing of Fantastic’s editor in chief, Gert Jonkers, the new fashion title will have a circulation of 72,000. A page of advertising costs 8,500 pounds, or roughly $13,000 at current exchange. Among advertisers in the first issue are Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Celine, Christian Dior and Y-3. The Gentlewoman will hit the stands with a cover price of 7.80 euros, or $10.95.

 

[Pedro]

^ Great News! shot by Sims! Thanks MMA!

 

[Mr-Dale]

From The Imagist:

The Hiss Squad assures that a scandal generating new girl (as yet unseen on any runway,) is set to stomp for her worldwide exclusive this weekend even as her her first blue chip editorial tear is set to drop next month...TI-heads are very fast so we know they'll have that one sorted out in record time, Model watchers should also brace themselves for an extra-twisted parade courtesy of a certain closely watched directional force. Let's just say you won't be able to guess who or what (whether he or she) will come wheeling out as the next exit for that show. New decade...new template...for real...And since this is quite timely...which super-photographer is threatening not to renew his contract with that blue chip mag should he ever gain be saddled with a certain temperamental super-stylist. He is simply not used to be being spoken to that way. Talent is sensitive kids!

Drama!