The Business of Magazines #4

Discussion in 'Magazines' started by Thread Manager, Sep 14, 2017.

  1. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

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    Doubt I'll miss Giovanni Bianco at Vogue Italia, since the majority of the cover shoots just felt like a huge ego trip of his favorites (like Madonna, Kendall, Bella, Mert & Marcus).

    Bianco's vision was all over the place from month to month, so hopefully the next person who comes in is more direct and returns the magazine to its former glory. Now Fabien Baron at Vogue Italia (or any magazine for that matter) would be major, @mikel.
     
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  2. Plax

    Plax Well-Known Member

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    I'm a huge fan of Fabien and his previous Vogue Italia era (1988 -1992). But, I want to see another art director than him. I mean, Fabien would stick to his dark and sensual aesthetic and photographers like Steven Klein, Mikael Jansson, Steven Meisel, Craig McDean etc. I want to see more newer photographers like Talia Chetrit , Brianna Capozzi, Zoe Ghertner, Colin Dodgson, Jamie Hawkesworth, Johnny Dufort, Karim Sadli etc in Vogue Italia.

    Christopher Simmonds would be great to me. Print Magazine he created with Francesca Burns was really fun and great.
     
  3. mepps

    mepps Well-Known Member

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    Giovanni had some highlights, but I never felt he was a good fit for VI.
    It'll be interesting to see who takes over, but I really don't see Fabien Baron coming back.
     
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  4. MON

    MON Well-Known Member

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    The fact that Farnetti approved of GB’s work speaks of Farnetti’s taste. Choices.

    Will not get my hopes up as to replacement.
     
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  5. Plax

    Plax Well-Known Member

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    Camille Bidault Waddington named Fashion Director of Vanity Fair France. :bounce:
     
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  6. axiomatic

    axiomatic Well-Known Member

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    WWD
     
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  7. axiomatic

    axiomatic Well-Known Member

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    Out Magazine Owner Pride Media Suing for $10M Over Payment Issues


    Wonder if Picardi regrets the move..
     
  8. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Great news, and thanks for the update, @axiomatic ! I must say French VF's fashion direction could not be any more uneventful, so looking forward to Camille's input. Not looking for HF and glamour because I know that's not in their culture, but just put some care into the styling at least. Make it more directional. And maybe also lift the cover styling. I don't know how it's possible for their covers, as well as GQ France who style their celebrities to look like fishermen, to actually sell.
     
  9. caioherrero

    caioherrero Well-Known Member

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    Guys, does US Elle still without a fashion director?
     
  10. Xone

    Xone Well-Known Member

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    An article about Carine Roitfeld because or her new style adviser position at karl Lagerfeld brand, facts about her...from WWD

    She works a lot....

    How Carine Roitfeld Went From Editor to Fashion Industry Icon

    How Carine Roitfeld Went From Editor to Fashion Industry Icon
    The former Vogue Paris editor and now style adviser to the Karl Lagerfeld brand has been a formidable player in the fashion world since the Nineties.
    By Layla Ilchi on April 1, 2019
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    Carine Roitfeld at the Aquazzura cocktail party.

    Lodovico Colli Di Felizzano/WWD/REX/Shutterstock


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    As a magazine editor, stylist and designer, Carine Roitfeld is one of the fashion industry’s most recognizable figures. It was announced today that the multihyphenate is taking a deeper dive into brand consulting as the newly appointed “style adviser” at the Karl Lagerfeld brand.



    A longtime friend and collaborator of the late Karl Lagerfeld, Roitfeld will be continuing the pair’s relationship by joining the designer’s namesake label in a new advisory role meant to provide creative input and continue Lagerfeld’s vision.

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    Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and Carine Roitfeld at the Celine fall 2019 show. Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

    Roitfeld — who is receiving the Founder’s Award at the upcoming CFDA Awards in June — has been a formidable force in fashion since the Nineties styling for Tom Ford’s Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent and consulting for the likes of Missoni, Versace and Calvin Klein. In 2001, she transitioned into the role of editor in chief of Vogue Paris, where she infused her punk-rock and sensual aesthetic into the publication during her 10-year tenure, before founding her own magazine, called CR Fashion Book, in 2012. She’s also tried her hand at fashion design, teaming with Uniqlo for a number of capsule collections, and is currently set to launch her first line of fragrances.

    From her sensual and edgy style to her many collaborations, here is everything you need to know about Roitfeld’s career.

    How did Roitfeld get started in fashion?

    Roitfeld first spent 15 years as a stylist and writer for Elle France. Through her role at the magazine, she forged a friendship with photographer Mario Testino starting in the Nineties. The pair was then tasked by Tom Ford, then creative director at Gucci, to come help revitalize the Italian brand, and then to collaborate at Yves Saint Laurent when Ford took over in 1999. The trio ushered in an era of sex appeal at both fashion houses, creating some of the most controversial ad campaigns, for instance, the infamous 2003 ad featuring the Gucci logo shaved into model Carmen Kass’ pubic hair. During the six years that Roitfeld worked alongside Ford, she served not just as a stylist but also as the designer’s muse. Ford would later tap Roitfeld’s daughter, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, as the face of his Black Orchid fragrance.

    What was her time like as editor in chief of Vogue Paris?

    As editor in chief of Vogue Paris from 2001 to 2011, Roitfeld frequently showed nudity, smoking and many images that sparked controversy. For example, in a 2003 feature model Lara Stone’s skin was painted completely black, which prompted backlash against the editor. Roitfeld remarked on the spread in an interview with WWD in 2010 when she revealed her decision to leave the magazine, stating: “Painting Lara Stone black, for example. We were accused of being racist, which was totally untrue, since I once did an entire issue on black model [Liya Kebede in May 2002].”

    When did she start CR Fashion Book?

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    Carine Roitfeld and Naomi Campbell at the ‘La Nuit’ by Sofitel with CR Fashion Book party. Stephane Feugere/WWD

    After leaving Vogue Paris in 2011, Roitfeld launched CR Fashion Book the following year. The biannual magazine debuted with a 340-page book and roughly 90 percent of the issue was dedicated to fashion shoots, with the remaining pages comprised of features stories. Through the years, CR Fashion Book has collaborated with the United Nations Children’s Fund with dual covers featuring Gigi Hadid and Halima Aden, worked with Estée Lauder on a charitable calendarbenefiting the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and added a separate men’s magazine, called CR Men’s Book.

    In February, it was revealed that Roitfeld will be scaling back her duties at the magazine, going from leading editorial to overseeing it. With a smaller logo also in place, Roitfeld is styling fewer shoots for each issue in order to focus more on collaborations and growing her client list for her creative studio and brand consultancy, CR Studio, which can now be seen as a sign of her taking on a larger role at the Lagerfeld brand.

    What is her role at Harper’s Bazaar?

    Also in 2012, Roitfeld was named global fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar where she creates multi-page fashion and celebrity spreads quarterly to appear in the magazine’s 32 international issues. She also helps create the magazine’s annual “Icons” issue and hosts the annual Icons Party, which has become the de facto kick off of New York Fashion Week in September.

    Who has she collaborated with?

    [​IMG]
    Carine Roitfeld and Karl Lagerfeld Joanne Davidson/REX/Shutterstock

    Roitfeld had a long professional relationship with the late Karl Lagerfeld. After leaving Vogue Paris, Roitfeld helped style the ad campaigns for Chanel’s fall 2011 and spring 2012 collections. In January, Lagerfeld also tapped Roitfeld to collaborate on his namesake label. The partnership kicked off in September with The Edit by Carine Roitfeld, which showed Roitfeld’s selection of pieces from the designer’s fall 2019 collection. The two also co-authored “The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited,” which featured famous names like Claudia Schiffer, Kanye West and Sarah Jessica Parker, among others, wearing the classic tweed Chanel jacket.

    Now as the official style adviser to Lagerfeld’s brand, Roitfeld will work on its next three seasons, with the opportunity to extend the partnership. She will not be designing collections, but rather will provide creative input and ensure the products fit Lagerfeld’s vision.

    Roitfeld has previously dabbled in fashion design. In 2015, she joined forces with Uniqlo, creating a number of capsule collections based on her signature edgy style. Roitfeld also collaborated with MAC Cosmetics in 2012, where she developed products to re-create her signature smoky eye look. In 2011, Barneys New York tapped Roitfeld to create the retailer’s fall women’s campaign, which Roitfeld dubbed “Carine’s World.” Roitfeld was also featured in the 2013 documentary, “Mademoiselle C,” which documented the launch of CR Fashion Book.

    What awards has she won?

    [​IMG]
    Carolyn Murphy and Carine Roitfeld at the French Institute Alliance Française Awards. Andrew H Walker/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

    In June, Roitfeld will receive the Founder’s Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America at the CFDA Awards. She’s previously won the French Institute Alliance Française Art de Vivre Award to honor her contributions to the promotion of the French art of living, which was presented to her in 2017 by Carolyn Murphy, and she received the magazine of the year award at the Daily Front Row Fashion Awards for CR Fashion Book the prior year, which was presented to her by Gigi Hadid.

    What is she working on now?

    Roitfeld is gearing up to release her first namesake fragrance line, which is set to exclusively launch on Net-a-porter in May. The line will launch with a collection of seven unisex fragrances inspired and named after international cities. She’s also focusing on brand consultancy through CR Studio, where in addition to the Lagerfeld brand she is working with Chanel and Tom Ford. Recently, Roitfeld helped create the latest ad campaign for Jordache.
     
  11. axiomatic

    axiomatic Well-Known Member

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    https://nypost.com/2019/04/04/insiders-applaud-hiring-of-new-conde-nast-ceo-roger-lynch/

     
  12. axiomatic

    axiomatic Well-Known Member

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    https://nypost.com/2019/04/04/newhouse-family-quietly-unveils-conde-nast-succession-plan/

     
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  13. caioherrero

    caioherrero Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know why Anne Marie was fired?
     
  14. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    ^Who said she got fired? Her departure sounds voluntary to me....

    Anne-Marie Curtis: 15 Years Of ELLE

    BY TEAM ELLE
    04/04/2019

    As we bid an incredibly fond farewell to Team ELLE's Editor-in-Chief and erstwhile Fashion Director of more than a decade, we are taking the opportunity to celebrate the inspiring reign of Anne-Marie Curtis at ELLE UK. Here we share some of her most powerful moments.

    1 The Slick Woods Cover

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    Pregnant Slick Woods made headlines as the cover of ELLE’s groundbreaking Sustainability Issue, which had an impact in the fashion industry as the first luxury magazine to dedicate its September issue to environmentalism.

    2 Anne-Marie Curtis with Nicolas Ghesquière

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    Anne-Marie Curtis counts her work with Nicolas Ghesquière for the March 2019 issue of ELLE, starring Michelle Williams, as one of the personal highlights of her career.

    ‘I first worked with Nicolas a few years back when I styled an incredible Louis Vuitton project with ELLE International and the legend that is Jean-Paul Goude,’ and a beautiful friendship grew from there.


    3 The Cara Delevingne Cover

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    For Anne-Marie’s debut cover as Editor-in-Chief, she chose the British icon, supermodel and actor Cara Delevingne. Bold, joyful and a real fashion moment – the cover went viral as soon as it hit social media and set the bar for all covers to come.

    4 When Anne-Marie Met Taylor Swift

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    When ELLE shot the world’s leading pop star for the April 2019 ‘Music Issue’ in London, the pair bonded over their love of pop and that yellow Gucci dress.


    5 The Chrissy Teigen Cover

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    Whether she's calling out President Trump, busting beauty taboos or generally being hilarious, Chrissy Teigen is the best thing about the internet, and Anne-Marie knew it, so put her on the ELLE January 2019 cover.

    6 When AMC Met FLOTUS

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    The work day doesn’t get much better than an afternoon with the world’s most popular and inspiring woman crush, First Lady Michelle Obama. Anne-Marie sat down with Obama to talk fashion, politics and her book ‘Becoming’ in New York, ahead of the First Lady’s record-breaking book tour.

    7 The Stormzy Cover
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    Platinum-selling rapper, Brit award-winner, Glastonbury headliner - Stormzy is making history on his own terms. And so, Anne-Marie asked him to bring together a group of those that inspired him most.

    8 AMC and Erdem Moralioglu

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    Anne-Marie and longtime friend Erdem share a special bond: he designed her wedding dress.

    9 The Alicia Vikander Cover

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    Oscar-winning actor Alicia Vikander graced the cover of ELLE UK's April 2018 issue, shot in London and styled by none other than Anne-Marie. After the shoot, Anne-Marie and Alicia went to a nearby pub to celebrate with a tequila.

    10 When AMC met Prince Charles

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    Anne-Marie and Prince Charles share a passion for creating a more sustainable future. Needless to say, they had much to talk about when the two met at White City last year.

    11 The Winnie Harlow Cover
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    The face of now – Winnie Harlow – was Anne-Marie’s May 2018 cover star. The Toronto native was one of the most recognisable faces on the catwalk, with 3 million Instagram followers, but what mattered most to Anne-Marie was that she boldly changed the conversation around beauty, helping to broaden the industry’s once-narrow standards.

    12 AMC and DVF

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    Diane von Furstenberg inspired hundreds of women as a keynote speaker at 2018's ELLE Weekender event, where she took to the main stage to discuss her life in fashion with Anne-Marie.

    13 The Karl Tribute Cover

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    The fashion industry titan’s iconic Chanel shows were among Anne-Marie’s most memorable moments on the runway show circuit, which is why in 2019 she commissioned a special, limited-run Karl tribute cover.

    14 ELLE Around The World

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    This picture is best summed up in Anne-Marie's own words: 'It’s fair to say I’ve had more than a few ‘pinch me’ moments over my career as a fashion editor – whether it’s been finding myself at an awe-inspiring location for a shoot or watching a particularly amazing show. But when I was tasked to work with legendary photographer Jean-Paul Goude on a major collaboration with Nicolas Ghesquière and Louis Vuitton, to feature in every ELLE around the world, it was a ‘pinch me’ moment of epic proportions – not simply professional, but personal.'

    15 Anne-Marie At The ELLE List Party

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    In 2018, Anne-Marie launched The ELLE LIST – a celebration of the next generation of game-changers and hell-raisers who were reframing the world of fashion, beauty, culture, politics and technology – and inspiring the ELLE woman. The event was held at Spring in London's Somerset House and Anne-Marie wore a dress by one of the List winners, Richard Quinn, on the night.

    Elle UK
     
  15. tigerrouge

    tigerrouge don't look down

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    What I'd like to know is why her Elle started out so well - but then seemed to lose steam as the months went by.

    We had a vibrant relaunch with a series of striking covers that seemed to promise a return to strength for UK Elle on the newsstand... but that all faded away into a very average product.

    Did she personally lose enthusiam for the role of magazine editor in the current media environment? Was she not permitted to continue the vision she certainly seemed to have for the title at the start? After a while, was she just biding her time for a better offer doing something else?
     
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  16. Xone

    Xone Well-Known Member

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    I think editors face a lot of pressure from the big heads,and sometimes that can shut down their willing to do new things, the creativity, etc....It's not always about that they don't have a vision, most of the times i think it's the big bosses don't let them do it properly, because they just want to see numbers very fast....

    it's sad that she's gone....
     
  17. MON

    MON Well-Known Member

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    Karin Swerink is said to have left Vogue NL and is now the EIC of LINDA.Magazine.

    Choices.

    Can someone explain why anyone will leave Vogue for Linda? Unless Linda is a bigger magazine (which I’m assuming cause Karin [along the lines of] said that she could not pass upon said opportunity.
     
  18. mikel

    mikel Well-Known Member

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    Linda is a bigger title. I guess it’s like the Dutch version of Oprah’s O magazine.
     
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  19. lucy92

    lucy92 Mod Squad Team Leader

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    Looks like Marie Claire and Conde Naste really cleaned house - they got rid of beauty editor Erin Flaherty. : :ermm: :cry:

    I've been following her writing since the 90's.
     
  20. MON

    MON Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info! It really does seem like a bigger title. The current EIC had access to Michelle Obama. I mean if that’s not a feat (calm down republicans) I don’t know what is?
     

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