The Business of Magazines | Page 193 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

Cristine Centenera just posted a pic in One World Trade Center saying new office. Anyone know if she’s going to CN US?

Noooo! All fair and well for US Vogue if she's going there, but what about Vogue Australia? I wouldn't be surprised though. Christine, in her fashion director position, has been able to keep Vogue Australia's direction as relevant to the youth/indie crowd and the more mature reader. Maybe that's what Anna is after. She's also mad about all things Kardashian (Kim's two Vogue Australia covers didn't happen by accident.)
I doubt whether she'll run an edition here as EIC because all the jobs are filled. And with the news of W up for sale, my guess is she's off to US Vogue. With Anna's deal with CN restructured, she'll get away with a lot more than ever now.

CN is truly coin apart at the seams! Maybe Penske, who owns WWD, should buy W. They have Fairchild's other businesses as well, so it could be great to reunite the brands. First thing the new owner should do is get rid of Tonchi!
 
What happened in the past?

It's all very clearly laid out in Grace Mirabella's memoir, In and Out of Vogue, which you should consider getting. How Anna, even though in a lower position, never submitted any of her work directly to Grace, but instead to Alex Lieberman (Grace's superior.) Those were apparently Anna's terms. How she made edits to the magazine without consulting Grace, editing and making a success of UK Vogue and US House & Garden, and eventually leveraging that to get CN to hand Vogue to her on a platter.
 


"I’m very, very proud to be a new Contributing Editor to @britishvogue. Thank you so much to @edward_enninful for his extraordinary leadership and to @gileshattersley and @alcaselyhayford for taking a chance on me. My first piece (which is online now) is about my body, disability and our response to difference.
.
.
“We are embarrassed by what we do not know, and we are often aggressive towards anyone who reminds us of our ignorance, or is different to us. Yet, from children’s innocent inquisitiveness we could learn to cultivate an empathy and respect for otherness.”
.
.
[Image description: Sitting and wearing a rather fantastic @burberry blouse - it has a polka dot collar, p*ssy-bow and cuffs, whilst the remainder is vertical stripes, I’m posing with one hand on my hip and the other on my lap. I’m smiling and my bob is suspiciously like that of another Vogue team-member.... this photo was taken at @scaddotedu.]"
 
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Vogue are running sponsored instagram clips of the Edward/Rihanna chat.

Which means they must've boosted the post reach an audience beyond their followers! Lol.
The cover with the most likes is Ariana Grande's, at 105K. Doesn't surprise me at all, and I can almost bet her fans went out to buy the print version as well just to get their hands on those pics. The rest all average at around 40k-odd.
 
CN is truly coin apart at the seams! Maybe Penske, who owns WWD, should buy W. They have Fairchild's other businesses as well, so it could be great to reunite the brands. First thing the new owner should do is get rid of Tonchi!

Interesting idea, considering this quote from a Feb WWD article:

Penske Media Corp. has recently closed a $200 million direct investment from a Saudi Arabia investment fund. PMC is the parent company and owner of Fairchild Media and WWD. Chairman and chief executive office Jay Penske continues to control more than 60 percent of the company after the strategic investment.

“This moment represents another significant milestone for PMC and its stakeholders,” said Lauren Utecht, vice president of communications for the company. “After a decade of growth without raising any outside capital, this minority funding will further amplify our investments in existing PMC properties and provide additional resources for future acquisitions.”

Penske Media Corp. Gets $200M Investment From Saudi Fund
 
(American) Conde Nast is really falling down further and further into the abyss it seems. A decade ago I can't say anyone would have guessed that the mighty would tumble so ungracefully. Somehow US Bazaar suddenly seems like the staple fashion monthly despite its meager quality (no doubt it's better than any of the main titles at CN right now though!)


I can't really see anyone buying W, however the opportunity for a complete revamp could be a goldmine if a company like Fairchild were to really invest in it.
 
Tonchi in talks with investors to buy W.

Everyone’s Selling, but Is Anyone Buying?
W may have a surprise buyer in the wings, but there are many more media brands in need of a savior.
Kali Hays

WHO WANTS TO BUY A MAGAZINE?:
If there’s anyone out there who’s been dying to get into media, now’s the time. The market is awash with magazine brands to buy and it seems there’s something for almost any taste, from fashion to finance to sports.

This year alone, nearly 20 media web sites and magazines have been put up for sale, with no official sale deals as of yet. Freshly added to this group are Condé Nast titles W, Brides and Golf Digest, according to almost simultaneous Wednesday reports from The New York Times and the New York Post. Condé Nast, which in April flatly denied to WWD that anything was happening with W or Brides, declined comment Thursday.

It’s little surprise that those titles are being pushed out — talk of Condé cutting ties, in one way or another, with Brides and W have been frequent. Just last month sources told WWD that one strategy being considered was the outright closure of W, while Condé is known to have wanted to get rid of the magazine for at least the last four years.

But it appears there’s at least one possible buyer of W lined up already: None other than Stefano Tonchi, the title’s editor in chief since 2010. He’s said to be talking with potential investors in an effort to buy the 47-year-old fashion magazine founded by the legendary John B. Fairchild and run it independently. Operating without the overhead that comes with simply being a Condé Nast title would surely free up a lot of W’s profit, which is said to be losing money but has received little to no investment from Condé in several years. One source noted that Condé, in recent years at least, picks only a few titles each year to actually invest in as part of its budgeting.

Another source said the sale of all three Condé titles could be wrapped up in as little as two or three months, possibly giving the company a year-end cash injection that’s likely much needed.

Small wonder that budgets are so tight, considering Condé’s revenue has been on the decline for years and it last year saw losses of $120 million, according to the Times report, on top of reported losses of $100 million in 2016. It seems like a sell-off of the titles is one of the few paths to cash the company has, as ad dollars continue to decline across the industry. According to the Association of Magazine Media, print ad spending among the 50 largest advertisers fell by nearly $420 million last year.

Yet another hurdle for Condé is that it’s got competition in the magazine sale race, which has some stronger titles on the block.

Meredith was first to go the sale route early this year with its decision to carve out Time, Sports Illustrated, Fortune and Money within a few months of closing its acquisition of Time Inc. While the sale of those titles is supposed to be winding its way to a close by fall, forward motion seems to have slowed, with employees of those publications left wondering what will become of them. There’s been talk that Meredith’s asking price for the titles is simply too high — initial reports bullishly predicted the publisher was seeking $100 million for each magazine — so negotiations could be taking longer than initially thought.

And it’s not only print magazines up for grabs. Last month came Univision’s decision to try to off-load the 11 sites it acquired from the Gawker bankruptcy and redubbed Gizmodo Group, including popular sites like Deadspin, Jezebel and Lifehacker, along with The Onion and its sister site Clickhole, which are in their own division. The Gizmodo sites seemed an odd choice for Univisionand some ended up a little worse for the wear. Univision’s trialswith its digital media expansion were well-documented in a 7,000-word story in May from its own Special Projects Desk, also a part of Gizmodo and now for sale, that dove into the company’s private equity debt (deepened by the Gizmodo deal), executive departures and waves of staff cuts.

Univision seems eager to rid itself of the sites and refocus on its core assets of TV aimed at Hispanic audiences, with industry sources saying the company is willing to let go of the sites as a group or in pieces for less than the $135 million it paid for them in 2016.

The selling of all these magazine titles and web sites, which appear to have at least some value on the surface and could possibly be salvaged if invested in properly, is also a sign of how the media industry has changed. Boston Consulting Group for many months has been inside Condé, which had previously had a long consulting relationship with McKinsey & Co. (so long that executives at the profligate publisher would joke McKinsey had taken up permanent residence there) and title consolidation may be the consultant’s go-to strategy for strapped media companies. Univision, another BCG client, went the same route in deciding to sell Gizmodo.

One industry source noted that at one time, not too long ago, Condé was “a family business,” being owned and operated by the Newhouse family and also managed to be a preeminent magazine publisher with only one true rival in Hearst.

“Now it’s a corporate business,” the source added. “You start having BCG guys running around there, it’s a different place.”

Obviously, it’s a new era for media, and certainly one at Condé, where hardly a day goes by without another longtime senior editor heading for the exit (voluntarily or not). Also notable is the seeming lack of front-facing marquee editors at the titles, which, save for a current few like Anna Wintour, David Remnick and Tonchi, have gone largely unmentioned, reinforcing a sense that operating a magazine is not what it used to be. Certainly, it is less lucrative for publishers and their once highly paid editors.
source | wwd
 
D4B41BC9-44D7-4CB6-8F73-A1E737A2E45B.jpeg

Amy Astley gettin’ cozy with Anna:lol:


Amy Astley, Anna Wintour, Michael Kors Party the Rumors Away at AD Style Issue Fete

After a week fraught with rumors concerning the future of Vogue and multiple Condé Nast titles, AD's editor in chief Amy Astley hosted a party to shake that gossip off.

Architectural Digest had a party at New York’s Legacy Records on Manhattan’s West Side on Wednesday to toast its September style issue — although the timing wasn’t great. The Brizo-sponsored event — which drew the likes of Michael Kors (who’s on the cover of the magazine this coming month and gave AD a full video tour of his penthouse apartment), Jason Wu, Anna Sui and Anna Wintour — was hosted by Architectural Digest editor in chief Amy Astley. Condé Nast had been suffering a hailstorm week surrounding rumors of Wintour leaving — which it finally firmly denied by saying she was staying “indefinitely” — when reports, including in The New York Times, revealed that three of the financially challenged media giant’s publications — W, Brides and Golf Digest — are up for sale. But if anyone at the fete was worried about those issues, it didn’t show. Hordes of people swarmed the bar and entrance area of the venue, crowding together and kissing each others’ cheeks.

Woman of the hour Wintour stood in a corner after posing for photos on the step and repeat. Arms folded, she leaned against a railing and put her head down to chat with Kors. But to anyone else, she retained her usual Greta Garbo-esque act, declining to be interviewed by saying, “I’m just running out, but nice to see you.” Even when a guest inquired whether she’d seen her daughter Bee Shaffer’s wedding photos from her recent nuptials to Francesco Carrozzini, Wintour simply pulled a pained smile and kept walking. Nice to see you, too.

Astley did pause to chat about why readers are so interested to see the inside of celebrities’ homes.

“What’s interesting in our world is personal,” she said. “My first style issue at AD, we featured Marc Jacobs’ home, and people were very surprised to see how he lived. It wasn’t what they expected. In the case of Michael Kors, I was really struck by how perfectly cohesive his house was with what he’s been doing his entire career: sleek, luxurious minimalism.”

Switching to her mentor Wintour’s title, Vogue, Astley was asked about rumors that Wintour gave Beyoncé full editorial control over that magazine’s September cover story. “I don’t know anything about that,” Astley said. “To me, that’s just talk in the media. I wouldn’t believe any of that talk about anybody ceding control. There’s no way that Anna’s making a false move with anything that she’s doing at Vogue, especially that issue.”

Both Wu and Sui are busy at work on their respective spring collections they’ll be showing in September. With their fabrics for the upcoming season fully squared away, they said they’re ready to start putting things together.

“Now I don’t have an excuse why there’s nothing done,” Sui said, laughing.
source | wwd
 
Everyone’s Selling, but Is Anyone Buying?
W may have a surprise buyer in the wings, but there are many more media brands in need of a savior.

By Kali Hays
with contributions from Evan Clark
on August 2, 2018

WHO WANTS TO BUY A MAGAZINE?: If there’s anyone out there who’s been dying to get into media, now’s the time. The market is awash with magazine brands to buy and it seems there’s something for almost any taste, from fashion to finance to sports.

This year alone, nearly 20 media web sites and magazines have been put up for sale, with no official sale deals as of yet. Freshly added to this group are Condé Nast titles W, Brides and Golf Digest, according to almost simultaneous Wednesday reports from The New York Times and the New York Post. Condé Nast, which in April flatly denied to WWD that anything was happening with W or Brides, declined comment Thursday.

It’s little surprise that those titles are being pushed out — talk of Condé cutting ties, in one way or another, with Brides and W have been frequent. Just last month sources told WWD that one strategy being considered was the outright closure of W, while Condé is known to have wanted to get rid of the magazine for at least the last four years.

But it appears there’s at least one possible buyer of W lined up already: None other than Stefano Tonchi, the title’s editor in chief since 2010. He’s said to be talking with potential investors in an effort to buy the 47-year-old fashion magazine founded by the legendary John B. Fairchild and run it independently. Operating without the overhead that comes with simply being a Condé Nast title would surely free up a lot of W’s profit, which is said to be losing money but has received little to no investment from Condé in several years. One source noted that Condé, in recent years at least, picks only a few titles each year to actually invest in as part of its budgeting.

Another source said the sale of all three Condé titles could be wrapped up in as little as two or three months, possibly giving the company a year-end cash injection that’s likely much needed.

Small wonder that budgets are so tight, considering Condé’s revenue has been on the decline for years and it last year saw losses of $120 million, according to the Times report, on top of reported losses of $100 million in 2016. It seems like a sell-off of the titles is one of the few paths to cash the company has, as ad dollars continue to decline across the industry. According to the Association of Magazine Media, print ad spending among the 50 largest advertisers fell by nearly $420 million last year.

Yet another hurdle for Condé is that it’s got competition in the magazine sale race, which has some stronger titles on the block.

Meredith was first to go the sale route early this year with its decision to carve out Time, Sports Illustrated, Fortune and Money within a few months of closing its acquisition of Time Inc. While the sale of those titles is supposed to be winding its way to a close by fall, forward motion seems to have slowed, with employees of those publications left wondering what will become of them. There’s been talk that Meredith’s asking price for the titles is simply too high — initial reports bullishly predicted the publisher was seeking $100 million for each magazine — so negotiations could be taking longer than initially thought.

And it’s not only print magazines up for grabs. Last month came Univision’s decision to try to off-load the 11 sites it acquired from the Gawker bankruptcy and redubbed Gizmodo Group, including popular sites like Deadspin, Jezebel and Lifehacker, along with The Onion and its sister site Clickhole, which are in their own division. The Gizmodo sites seemed an odd choice for Univision and some ended up a little worse for the wear. Univision’s trialswith its digital media expansion were well-documented in a 7,000-word story in May from its own Special Projects Desk, also a part of Gizmodo and now for sale, that dove into the company’s private equity debt (deepened by the Gizmodo deal), executive departures and waves of staff cuts.

Univision seems eager to rid itself of the sites and refocus on its core assets of TV aimed at Hispanic audiences, with industry sources saying the company is willing to let go of the sites as a group or in pieces for less than the $135 million it paid for them in 2016.

The selling of all these magazine titles and web sites, which appear to have at least some value on the surface and could possibly be salvaged if invested in properly, is also a sign of how the media industry has changed. Boston Consulting Group for many months has been inside Condé, which had previously had a long consulting relationship with McKinsey & Co. (so long that executives at the profligate publisher would joke McKinsey had taken up permanent residence there) and title consolidation may be the consultant’s go-to strategy for strapped media companies. Univision, another BCG client, went the same route in deciding to sell Gizmodo.

One industry source noted that at one time, not too long ago, Condé was “a family business,” being owned and operated by the Newhouse family and also managed to be a preeminent magazine publisher with only one true rival in Hearst
.

Source: WWD.com
 
This is a result of an overly profit oriented leadership and editorial view. I hate Conde and haven't bought any mag from them since the closure of Details magazine (ahh, I miss it so much). I think "W" could be more relevant and interesting in independent hand.
Some of these articles might suggest that print is dead, but the independent and niche market is going very well. It's the big ones who are struggling for obvious reasons.
 
If I were to buy W Magazine, my one and only condition is that it be sold WITHOUT Tonchi.

The start of his tenure had vision. It was celebrity focused. Albeit the repetitive gray backgrounds it had, the first few years of Tonchi was exciting. It gave new faces a chance, while recycling the same old same old. I still remember how controversial his Kim Kardashian cover was. It was so bold, and very in your face. Not my favorite cover, but you can see a vision.

But somewhere along the way, and in between numerous redesigns, the vision got lost and eventually died.

The vision died when they decided to cave into the whims of stylists and photographers. It died when it decided to alienate entirely its audience and tried desperately to catch the attention of the “youth” (which by the way, to believe that the “youth” will buy a physical magazine when they can simply scroll through the digital age and see HQ scans of their favorites is not only terribly dumb, but is also a death note to one’s self). Also, the vision died when they decided that “breaking the internet”/“being talked about/liked” was better than quality.

W Magazine needs not be revamped. It starts from the top.

Tonchi following W Magazine into its new haven is a futile attempt to revive this magazine.
 
The first few years of Tonchi's were very fine and he did feel like a worthy succesor to McCarthy...and now he's managed to turn this once opulent glossy in a sad, poorly printed copy of the worst indies around.
 
Yeah, a large part of the reason why W sucks is because of Stefano. Sorry, but I don't buy that financing has anything to do with what he's done to the publication. Fabien produced an incredible publication at Interview without getting paid a dime; thus there's no excuse for ST.

This move by him seems incredibly desperate; he clearly knows he's done if he doesn't stick with the magazine now and avoid it getting closed. We'll see what happens though.
 
No one with a brain or an ounce of business savvy, would give Tonchi two nickels to buy W magazine.
 
Kellie Hush resigned as EIC of Harper's Bazaar Australia yesterday:



Also had no idea that Jillian Davison had become the creative director of Vogue Australia and GQ Australia, until I came across her bio on IG!
 
Wow, Kellie is pure class! No reports via newspapers or anything (to my knowledge.) Will miss her. HB Australia always felt like the younger and cooler sister of the UK edition. And she had a great knack for direction and solid images.

I bet Lara Bringle must be crying in her pillow over this news. She won't have fashion covers handed to her easily now. Time to start hustling.

When did Jillian move to VA???? Will have to check on the masthead in my VA issues. Maybe it was a barter with Christine, but I don't see Christine going to Glamour......
 
^Jillian waited to be fired at Glamour and then moved back to Australia for this job. She did it quietly. At the same time, Christine moved to NY :lol:. I heard that she may be a executive fashion editor at Vogue or fashion director at Glamour. Let's see in September.

Plus, Joanna Coles left Hearst. So much changing, i like it :clap:
 
Oh! While it will be a great opportunity for Christine because she'll basically have type of experience in 6 months which would take the average stylist years to achieve. But on the other hand I'm not sure whether this type of monopoly or concentration of talent is good. Just look at Carine or Anna. No starlet or photographer can afford to cross Anna because it not only means they'll be barred from Vogue, but also from Glamour, GQ, W, Allure, the MET etc. It narrows the variety of talent down to the select few which she fancies.

I know budgets are the hot topic right now in the fashion industry, but in my experience I've found that professionals have adapted to the situation. Everybody is knocking down their rates for the right brands. Why not give the Glamour job to a fresh up-and-coming stylist instead, which they can pay less, naturally?
 

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